ive looked through alot of posts and i just wanted to verify. i did the turbo sequential simplification and i have a whole bunch of 330 ohm 1/2 watt resistors. so i put the resistors in the connectors that arent used and i ended up with 6 CELs so far. now my question is do i still continue to use 330ohm resistors for the sensors i have codes for???
my codes are:
30 split air bypass 27-32 ohms
33 port air bypass 26.6-32.6 ohms
34 idle speed control 10.7-12.3 ohms
38 accelerated warm up 9.3-11.3 ohms
39 solenoid valve relief two 27-32 ohms
50 double throttle ????

 

I don't have personal experience with this, but I could have sworn they were supposed to be 500 ohm resistors?

 

everything i read was 330ohm.

anyways, i stuck a few more resistors in unused connectors and now the check engine light is on but i cant pull up any codes. what does this mean????

BTW i havent started the car yet. still gotta get the right belt and put the ****** thing back together. just doin some pre startup procedures.

 

I didn't use resistors and my car ran like ****, so I put 330ohm 1/2w resistors in all the empty female plugs, and left the male ones alone. After, I was still getting a few codes but it drove perfect.

 

great, thats what i like to hear. now i just need an AST since i misplaced my foot while in the engine bay and broke the nipple off mine, ha. good times.

 

What is the part number for the spade connectors you guys are using?

 

im using the red ones from schucks. they come in a male and female package.

 

I just cut off all the unused terminals re-wrapped them back into the harness and my car runs great. I had to re-wire the (ISC) how-ever because it wasnt receiving its full 12v anymore.

 

as a result u have CELs i assume.

 

wot the hell are you guys talkin about?!

 

bump for me to get some answers from the pros.

 

what is CELs.

 

check engine lights

 

bump, can/will anyone answer my questions. someones done this correctly.

 

solenoid = resistors
non-solenoid != resistors

 

well that helps, did everyone put all 330 ohm resistors in everything then??? also if someone missed it. i got a check engine light but cannot pull a code. i assume that has something to do with a sensor that wont read a code until the car is fired up.
if anyone can answer this question i would appreciate it also. y did everyone use 330ohm resistors instead of a resistor thats closer to the resistance the ECU is lookin for. most everything is around 27-32 ohms. wouldnt that have worked properly???

 

check the ecu fuse. you may have blown it. this will set a code but you will not be able to access the ecu.

 

lower resistance draws more current (P=I^2R). Would need bigger watt resistors if went 33ohm which is what the actual impedence of the solenoids are.

330 is fine. I'm pretty sure the ecu only checks for open circuits on the solenoids so no need for large bulky resistors.

If you put a resistor in a place that didn't have a solenoid it mostly likely was a sensor which is a variable resistor that probably depends on heat. So you might have told the ecu a value out of operating peramitors. That could be one possible scenario.

 

great, now im on the right track, thanx guys.

 

I think this is the funniest thing ever, I just finished the simplification and I have NO codes at all. LoL Just saying.

 

well good for u smartass. how did u do it??? got any tips?

 

none. I have a Power Fc.

 

I did do it correctly, I dont do anything to my car half- ***. I received all of my guidance directly from a good friend that works at RX7.com.
I am running a Power Fc. If you are using a stock computer it may need to be done differently.

 

well i guess i should have posted that my car is stock. so yes, my ECU will read errors from sensors. ill figure it out eventually. im in no hurry i got 3 cars to choose from to drive. anways thanx for the help.