Requestin Pictures Fuel pump rewire
do it right. run a 10 gauge wire. that's the point of this mod. haha
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,945
Likes: 32
From: Davie, Florida
i would of ran a 10g wire to that with the fuse thingy..... its hard for some one who doesn't exactly know, but once one knows they understand and have 2 sides or points of view from this story,,
sorry im on a heavy heavy speeling pill right now, can you all just help me out by taking the pictures i requested please!~!~ i really didnt think its a hard task to do.
sorry im on a heavy heavy speeling pill right now, can you all just help me out by taking the pictures i requested please!~!~ i really didnt think its a hard task to do.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,945
Likes: 32
From: Davie, Florida
truthfully that didnt help at all, you had to much stuff in the back i was confused at what i was looking at, i mostly wanted to see how all the wires were connected, the ground/power mostly. Thanks for trying but just to much there for me to know whats what? i mostly want to see the ground if anything how you connected 3 wires
It doesn't look like he has slack, it looks more like he located the relay really close to the shock tower, underneath the plastics in the hatch. The wire loom that holds the wires for the pump in right under the plastics, on the driver's side in the hatch. Looks like he just cut it, and fitted it to the relay, then mounted the relay.
I wish I had a picture that would help you, but I have an idea. Have you thought about trying this mod, and taking pictures and posting them on here to make sure you're right? I think once you get into it, that you'll understand what we are trying to say. In the least, go pull your rear carpet, and the plastics, at least on the drivers side in the hatch, to find the loom with the pump wires in it. Takes pics and post if, you get lost and confused. Hope I helped a little more than no picture can.
I wish I had a picture that would help you, but I have an idea. Have you thought about trying this mod, and taking pictures and posting them on here to make sure you're right? I think once you get into it, that you'll understand what we are trying to say. In the least, go pull your rear carpet, and the plastics, at least on the drivers side in the hatch, to find the loom with the pump wires in it. Takes pics and post if, you get lost and confused. Hope I helped a little more than no picture can.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,945
Likes: 32
From: Davie, Florida
i want to do it once and right the first time, thats why i dont want to do it take a picture and say no its wrong and have to mess with it somemore.... plus i want to also have it as a ref, i know some people are like me and cant understand unless they seen it done once or have a picture of it. and i already moved the carpet and un did one of the clips and moved it around and got to see the grommit, and i cut some of the tap that was holding the wires together and see the 2 wires i need... i just want to see how people hooked thos up and how.
This could be a stupid question, and I am sorry if it is, but what is the purpose of the switch itself? (other than the obvious on/off switch function) Is it necessary to be able to turn this circuit on and off? I could see the benefits of being able to, but why can the 12v power source just be wired directly from the cig lighter (original fuel pump power, sunroof, wipers, etc.)? This should power the relay and ultimately new pump wiring only when the key is turned without the unnecessary switch and its associated wiring, correct?
Here I took some pics, they aren't great, but I can't remove my fuel pump cover all the way without removing the ground wire and I don't want to do that.
First pic shows the ground location. The Red wire in the pic goes directly to the fuel pump grounds in my car, or if following the diagram would connect to the black wire at the white connector.
The grey wire in the pic goes to the 85 or 86 on the coil to provide ground. If I had thought about it at the time I would have just used the black wire at the fuel pump connector for this ground.
The second pic shows the wires going through the stock rubber boot.
3rd pic shows under the cover, partially. Nothing much to see, the diagram simplifies all that. The relay has a nice connector plug with large contacts. Relay is pulled out in the pic, but usually sits under the metal lip in a rubber holder right above the tank. All connections are soldered, shrink wrapped and wrapped in electrical tape. Click pics to enlarge


First pic shows the ground location. The Red wire in the pic goes directly to the fuel pump grounds in my car, or if following the diagram would connect to the black wire at the white connector.
The grey wire in the pic goes to the 85 or 86 on the coil to provide ground. If I had thought about it at the time I would have just used the black wire at the fuel pump connector for this ground.
The second pic shows the wires going through the stock rubber boot.
3rd pic shows under the cover, partially. Nothing much to see, the diagram simplifies all that. The relay has a nice connector plug with large contacts. Relay is pulled out in the pic, but usually sits under the metal lip in a rubber holder right above the tank. All connections are soldered, shrink wrapped and wrapped in electrical tape. Click pics to enlarge


Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,945
Likes: 32
From: Davie, Florida
that does help a little more does anyone know if it would be a problem to do the grounds like this instead of having it like a T? like this picture i did. also do you need to add the extra ground to the relay on 85 or can i leave it with nothing there??
No 85 has to have a ground. That's what completes the circuit for the coil to activate. You don't have to run the ground to the frame though you can connect it to the existing wire.
The way you have the ground drawn you can do it like that, or you can just leave the left squiggle you drew out entirely. With the new ground at the frame you don't need the factory ground anymore.
An easy method would be to cut the large factory ground wire, (the one you adjusted in the pic) run the left squiggly to 85 on the relay. and the right squiggly to the frame as in my first pic. I'll adjust the pic to show what I mean.
The way you have the ground drawn you can do it like that, or you can just leave the left squiggle you drew out entirely. With the new ground at the frame you don't need the factory ground anymore.
An easy method would be to cut the large factory ground wire, (the one you adjusted in the pic) run the left squiggly to 85 on the relay. and the right squiggly to the frame as in my first pic. I'll adjust the pic to show what I mean.
basically, that black wire you see, is the ground lol. i just cut the red/white and run that to the coil on the relay. ran a 10g wire from the battery to the contact and from the contacts back onto the other end of the red/white wire that goes to the fuel pump. and re-cover it in corrigated tubing and wrapped it in tape again. not that hard really. the jack is on the other side of the boot, the tools were not in the car when i got it and i dont mind as i have seen the quality of them and theyre not the greatest lol. sorry there is a bit of **** in the boot yes, but its more the fact that everything is all crammed together as i wanted as much bootspace as i could get. hopefully it will look a bit neater soon when its all done.
Brad.
Brad.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,945
Likes: 32
From: Davie, Florida
i just finished an before putting everything away i tried starting it to make sure it will turn on, and it did, so im going to take a picture of it before i put it all back together, i am leaving the relay under the fuel metal cover to i don't have to worry about more wires in the trunk (water injection tank/pump) all i have is 1 going to the battery and the ground that i just put on with the mount for the wi.. pictures will be up soon,
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,945
Likes: 32
From: Davie, Florida
it helped out, i bet there is a much better way to do it than the way i did it, and i will prob get criticized on how it was done, ( my self conscious little self
) i never really work with electrical but hey i tried.. aslong as it works i guess. pics soon to follow
) i never really work with electrical but hey i tried.. aslong as it works i guess. pics soon to follow
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,945
Likes: 32
From: Davie, Florida
alright this is what i did here are the pictures, i also made sure to sand paper the area with the ground before i put it on, i though i was gonna put it to the left of where it was but it wouldn't of fit properly that's why that was sanded down a little.
i don't think its to bad...
going to take it for a drive after i take a shower to make sure its all good.
i don't think its to bad...
going to take it for a drive after i take a shower to make sure its all good.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,945
Likes: 32
From: Davie, Florida
thanks, now all i need to do is change the uim with the ceramic coated one i got and fuel filter and then ready for a new tune... think ill let pettit install it tho
you should redo that to neaten it up a bit and use proper soldered connections. i bought a base that you solder spade terminals on and push into the base then you just push the relay into that, very simple and there was probly no need for you to sand the paint off and all that for the ground, its just the ground for the coil, as long as it makes contact it will be okay, no real need for big heavy wire on it. but it will work i'd just neaten him up a bit and it'll be all set. and maybe mount the actual relay onto something so its not flopping about like a loose dick. not trying to be an ***, just trying to help out. bad electrical work and fuel dont mix.
Brad.
Brad.






