rotorbrain

hey yanni, its basically along the same lines as your old LIM, but a little more work done to that area. you were right. . . TOO MUCH WORK!!!!

btw, man, that really does look great!!!!

one piece of constructive criticism. that flat square piece on the very top of the TB. . . get rid of it. . . make it flat and smooth all the way across.

paul

Gamezilla

Not really a good idea. Clearcoat doesnt like heat. Even the 500 degree **** will slowely yellow over time and eventually chip off. Best to just keep it clean with a rag and go over it with metal polish every once and a while. Nature of polished stuff. Thats why chrome is better (but more expensive).

saburo

iTrader: (1)

bling blang. But too much bling for my thing.

blueskaterboy

yanni can you gold plate mine with studded diamonds?

Snook

iTrader: (12)

If you guys want polishing now that winter is coming please feel free to PM me and we will make a plan for money and time you need it returned by.

rotorbrain good call
I like that part there though...its boring all flat I think that's the only casting mark I kept out of everything

Evin no they aren't chromed lol! The clearcoat is a good idea but I'm not good at painting at ALL!

It's funny for me to read these posts because it seems simple after doing so many hours of polishing.

Tips:
I advise using 100 grit as the rougest and then move up slowly through the intermediate grits all the way to ~400. Don't move on to the next grit until you are confident all the deep scratches have been removed. From there go to the buffer using a tough cotton wheel with tripoly compound to remove the rest of the very minor scratches that the 400 left. You sometimes have to stay in an area for a while moving it back and forth and heating it up. If you have a deep scratch and lets say its vertical you want to tackle it by putting the buffing wheel on it horizontally hope that makes sense. Applying more tripoly every once in a while or when progress stops can really make it go much faster since that is now your sanding compound. Now you should have a totally smooth finish and a somewhat good shine but not a chrome like luster. This is the easy part sort of. On the other side of the buffer I use a Loose sewn cotton wheel that you can push the part into and it will flex so it doesn't apply that much pressure and thus won't scratch as much. I use a green rouge or compound on this wheel which brings out the luster. On this one you want to apply the least amount of rouge as possible. And also remember to polish in uniform manner because it will show swirls whereever you let off. So I usually go back and forth on the runners and never let off until I'm in a place that can't be seen.

questions about a setup or anything to add please do!

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

I clearcoated a LIM once. It doesn't yellow but you cant go back and easily polish it up again. It lays out fairly nice but i don't know that I would bother doing it in the future. Here is the picture I took of it.
The parts you did look nice as always Yanni.

blueskaterboy

a bling UIM, tb, and fmic piping would be pretty nice... i guess we'll work out a deal in february. oh yeah and alternator!!