I'm installing a new short-block and want to properly move over my existing twin-turbos.

Which gaskets, o-rings, crush washers, oil lines, and hoses would you replace ?

Remember, I'd like to do it right the first time.

I've circled what I think needs to be done, but I'm not positive, especially on some of the hard-lines.

Thanks,
:-) neil

 

BTW: when installing BNR Stage III turbo's, there a recommendation to replace the "oil supply lines" with new components.

I assume you should do that any time you re-install the turbos ?

If so, which part numbers are the "oil supply lines" ? Is it 14-270, and 14-280 ?

:-) neil

 

I'm afraid I don't know the answer to your question Niel, but I will glady subscribe to your thread to get the answer. I have to replace my turbos next year and want to be prepared.

If you could also post up the price of all the stuff when you order it I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

 

I'll be ordering from my Mazdacomp account, so I can't post prices.

Sorry.

:-) neil

 

to be on the safe side i would replace every gasket that u had to remove to perform the swap.

 

In general, you won't have to do a lot. The oil return line gaskets are biggies to do - they're pretty cheap. If you keep the twins all together, you won't have to do the crush washers on the water lines, as the lines stay on the turbo assembly when you pull the turbos. If you're taking the turbos apart, you will need to.


The 2 rubber water lines going to/from the turbos are a REALLY good idea to do - they're cheap, and common failure points.

If your motor blew an apex seal, I would strongly recommend getting the turbos checked out. When apex seals break, they typically will find their way out of the exhaust port and into the turbine blades, chipping the edges of the turbine. The only way to truly see if they're bad is to pull the turbine housings off the turbo cartridges and inspect the blades.

Another thing I would consider is the nuts and studs holding the turbos to the manifold. ATP Turbo sells REALLY nice locking nuts in both 14mm and 12mm sizes for a very fair price - I've got them on my car, and they've been doing great. The Mazda lock nuts are FAR too aggressive and costly - the ATP nuts will typically not pull the stud out when you go to remove them down the road.

Dale

 

Since I'm not disturbing the hard-lines, I'm going only with gaskets and coolant-hoses.

I've attached an updated copy of the items that will be replaced with new.

Please let me know if I'm missing anything.

Dave- do you have a link & contact at ATP turbo, and possibly some pn#s and quantities ?

Thanks,
:-) neil

 

ATP Turbo's fastener page -

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=FST

They list them as 8mm and 10mm - there is like 1 8mm (12mm tool size) nut, and the rest are the 10mm (14mm tool size). There's a thread on the forum just recently showing all the nuts you need to remove, that should give you a good head count.

You can also use the 10mm studs/nuts for the downpipe to turbo as well.

Dale

 

Thanks.

When I installed the motor 2-years ago, we used high-temp nickle (higher than copper) anti-seize, so I'm hoping for minimal issues.

Is this the thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=turbo

:-) neil

 

Not really on your list, but when I re-installed my turbos after the rebuild, I re-painted all the heat-shielding. They were looking pretty nasty in spots and it bugged me. The really bad spots I put on the wire-wheel. The rest I just scuffed down, rinsed with reducer and used a rattle-can of silver DEI header paint.....~$8 and an hour or two. Seems to be holding up pretty well.

 

I painted the heat shields on my old FC back in the day with high temp engine paint - that stuff lasted like 15 minutes until it totally burned off .

Even better is ceramic coating everything, I've been considering that.

Dale

 

I used the DEI header paint/coating, not the caliper or engine "hi-temp" paint. IIRC the can said it's rated for something like 1200 F. It seems to adhere well and has lasted just fine. Not even discolored.

 

im in the same process of doing my turbos as well, honestley just replace the two cooling hoses and the oil return gaskets the rest can be reused its the route im going down, ur two turbo to manifold gaskets are gunna run u 120 alone.
my shop has an account with the local dealer and im not saving much.

 

When I did my full-NS conversion, I had the manifold, exhaust housings and DP coated. No hard numbers, but the engine bay seems a lot cooler.

 

im gonna use some haeder wrap on my dp.

 

My DP is already ceramic coated via Swain Technology & Coatings.

:-) neil

 

Throw out all the stock studs and nuts. You may be able to reuse them once or twice in some cases, but the next time something will gall or seize. The ATP fasteners are fine. The two long bolts that hold the turbos on near the center usually are reusable. I think I've only had one gall on me. All the oil return line gaskets should be changed. Also, if you change over the coolant feed and return lines, the copper crush washers at the banjo bolts will need to be replaced. The exhaust gaskets themselves usually last a long time, but look for cracking and evidence of leaks such as soot extending part the perimeter of the gasket.