Replacing oil pan gasket ...im stuck!
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: California
Replacing oil pan gasket ...im stuck!
Ok so far I have removed the 2 14mm engine mount bolts on the bottom of the engine, and im trying to jack the engine up from the transmission, BUT the whole car is going up instead of the engine.
What else do I have to remove to jack the engine up by the transmission besides the 2 14mm engine mount bolts,is there something else im missing?
any help would be greatly appreciated
What else do I have to remove to jack the engine up by the transmission besides the 2 14mm engine mount bolts,is there something else im missing?
any help would be greatly appreciated
You need to drop the subframe down to get enough room to do it properly. There are 4 bolts and the shock bolts, steering rack, swaybar. The safest way is to support the motor from the top with a cross brace. Northern Tool sells an affordable one. Don't use the stock gasket or it will leak again. There are numerous writeups on how to do this.
You removed the two 14mm wrench sized NUTS - correct ? Not bolts. If so then your transmission may be hitting the transmission tunnel and lifting the car up. You need to drop the subframe
later
later
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: California
I already figured it out thanks. Eventually the engine did come up and a friend and I dropped the subframe entirley today, cleaned everything with brake cleaner, cleaned out all the oil pan holes with a tap, scraped off all old RTV, installed a new oil pan and resealed it with Permatex "The Right stuff" gasket maker, installed the Oil pan brace, and torqued the oil pan bolts in star pattern to 6.5 ft lbs. What a day!!!!
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Good job, I did this a little while ago as well, and although there are write-ups on how to do it without removing the subframe, its just so much easier to take a bit up time and remove it. It also makes things easier to clean and put back together correctly. And the "Right Stuff" is amazing.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: California
I actually dont plan on putting oil in the car yet, until I reseal my leaking OMP, replace 2 leaky oil cooler line connectors, and replace the leaking oil filter pedestal O-Rings. After all that, there are really no other places I could see oil leaking from so I SHOULD have no more leaks, but ill let everyone know how it goes!
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From: California
Today I removed my OMP finally after hours of frustration and cursing. I ALMOST didnt think it was possible but I got it loose. I decided not to remove it completley since im not replacing it, and just to let it hang loose so I can install the new O-Ring and crush washers. The old one was flat and hard as a board, which explains the reason why it leaked. I lifted the enigne up, lowered the subframe, power steering rack, front sway bars, removed serpentine belt, Air Pump, Air Box and hoses, ALL for 1 little O-ring!!!!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: California
Ok well today so far I got all the oil leaks fixed and put everything back together (5am right now) subframe, sway bars, P/S rack, new motor mounts, air box, air hoses serpentine belt, blah blah blah. Put oil in the car for the first time and of course I was nervous because I had almost tore apart the entire front end to accomplish this
... well car started well! no leaks so far a LOT of residual oil left over. I am still skeptical however, I will try again tommorow and see whats going on, and give you guys the 411. I am so tired right now
... well car started well! no leaks so far a LOT of residual oil left over. I am still skeptical however, I will try again tommorow and see whats going on, and give you guys the 411. I am so tired right now
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: California
Ok so I started the car earlier and let it run for about 15 min at 2500 RPM to see if I had any leaks... Well today after a 4-5 hours of sitting I look under the car and see ONE drop of oil in the back of the oil pan!! ughhh I almost had it perfect. This is pretty annoying but whatever
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: MI
Time for an excessive pan
... granted I've only run my car a few times since installing mine it is sealed up very nicely. Only thing that is leaking at the moment are the cheap oil feed fittings I got with my turbo kit... sucks watching all that expensive idemitsu dripping on the garage floor
.
Good luck, hopefully you can get it all sealed up.
... granted I've only run my car a few times since installing mine it is sealed up very nicely. Only thing that is leaking at the moment are the cheap oil feed fittings I got with my turbo kit... sucks watching all that expensive idemitsu dripping on the garage floor
.Good luck, hopefully you can get it all sealed up.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: California
I really dont know where that one drop came from, because I jacked the car up again last night to check it out, and it was coming from the center section of the car in the back of the oil pan. I check the oil pan and everything looks solid no leaks. The oil drop came from the bottom of the subframe, but when I slide my hand to the top of the subframe, it felt bone dry... Wtf??? well this is the kinda thing Ill have to drive it for a while to verify
It could have been some oil from your previous leak that worked its way out when you jacked the car up. I would drive your car for a while a when you park it at night park it on a old white towel so you can see if it leaks.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: California
ok looks like I may have jumped the gun when I said there is still one drop of oil leaking. That may have been reidual fluid, because I took my car out today for the first drive in 2 weeks and after letting it warm up, I ran it hard. Did a few high rpm launches and 1 descent burn out and everything seemed solid. Came back home and let it sit in the garage for 2 hours, came back, not ONE drop of oil or anything on the floor! Thanks for all the help and great tips as I struggled through all of this!
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