Replacing FPD
#3
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Thanks for the reply. I found that thread already. I should have been more specific in my question, I'm really looking for an how the get the rats nest off easily and if I can switch out the FPD without the removing the fuel rail? By the way, how do you release the fuel pressure in the lines? (I have the UIM off the car)
Last edited by Specter328; 03-04-07 at 11:15 PM.
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As far as I know you can't release the fuel pressure without turning the car on. So you are gonna need to pop that UIM back on unless anyone knows of a different way. There is threads on how to do it properly.
#5
Recovering Miataholic
This was my experience.
IIRC the fuel pressure (on our '94) went away on its own in about 2 hours after the engine was turned off.
There is no easy way to remove (or replace) the solenoid rack. There are three screws at the front and three at the rear. All of them are trouble; I used several different tools, the most useful being a small Vise Grip. The screw threads are Locktite'd in place, and the "Philips" screw slots are of an angle that don't match any of my Philips screwdrivers... don't know what they really are. Plus, once the screws are out, the sheet metal layers of the rack spring out of place, and they are the very devil to line up so that the screws can be reinserted and threaded in. To get at the forward screws requires removal of the alternator. But to remove that item on our '94 I had to loosen the secondary air pump; the alternator didn't have enough adjustment to allow slacking the accessory belt unless the air pump was also swung to minimum tension position. To get at the rear screws it helps to be an octopus. Removing the fuel lines behind the rack helps some.
After the solenoid rack is out, you will find that you have to disconnect lots of electrical connectors and pull back the wire harness to get at the fuel rail area. Remember how the harness was dressed! Also, when replacing the solenoid rack, be careful how you dress the hose going to the ACV; it's very easy to route it right under the Accelerated Warmup Valve, in which case it will get well squashed.
Be SURE to identify the various vacuum hoses and their destinations. (I used Testor's model paints in various colors.)
I didn't want to take the chance that our fuel leak might have been injector or FPR O-rings instead of the FPD, so replaced those as well.
Hope I never have to do that again...
IIRC the fuel pressure (on our '94) went away on its own in about 2 hours after the engine was turned off.
There is no easy way to remove (or replace) the solenoid rack. There are three screws at the front and three at the rear. All of them are trouble; I used several different tools, the most useful being a small Vise Grip. The screw threads are Locktite'd in place, and the "Philips" screw slots are of an angle that don't match any of my Philips screwdrivers... don't know what they really are. Plus, once the screws are out, the sheet metal layers of the rack spring out of place, and they are the very devil to line up so that the screws can be reinserted and threaded in. To get at the forward screws requires removal of the alternator. But to remove that item on our '94 I had to loosen the secondary air pump; the alternator didn't have enough adjustment to allow slacking the accessory belt unless the air pump was also swung to minimum tension position. To get at the rear screws it helps to be an octopus. Removing the fuel lines behind the rack helps some.
After the solenoid rack is out, you will find that you have to disconnect lots of electrical connectors and pull back the wire harness to get at the fuel rail area. Remember how the harness was dressed! Also, when replacing the solenoid rack, be careful how you dress the hose going to the ACV; it's very easy to route it right under the Accelerated Warmup Valve, in which case it will get well squashed.
Be SURE to identify the various vacuum hoses and their destinations. (I used Testor's model paints in various colors.)
I didn't want to take the chance that our fuel leak might have been injector or FPR O-rings instead of the FPD, so replaced those as well.
Hope I never have to do that again...
#6
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Since the UIM is already off, I would just open to gas cap to relieve the pressure. There will be some fuel that will spill out once the fuel lines are disconnected, but nothing more than a little rag can't handle.
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#8
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By the way, how old is your car? I'm in the process of overhauling all my hoses and lines. since you're going to have the car apart. . Ray's got a great deal on all the fuel lines and o-rings to replace them while you're in there. I thought it was worth it.
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