Replacing Downpipe Studs?
10-23-22, 04:37 PM
#1
Replacing Downpipe Studs?
I removed my stock downipe, and all of the studs came out (at least I didn't break any). I noticed the threads on some of the studs were pretty dull or flatened. .
I have brand new studs and nuts to install.
Before I do, should I chase the threads with a tap? I tried to brush them out and hit them with brakleen
If I should tap, can anyone confirm it's a regular M10 x 1.5 thread?
Any other advice from those who've done it before? Planning to use high temp anti-seize.
I have brand new studs and nuts to install.
Before I do, should I chase the threads with a tap? I tried to brush them out and hit them with brakleen
If I should tap, can anyone confirm it's a regular M10 x 1.5 thread?
Any other advice from those who've done it before? Planning to use high temp anti-seize.
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Narfle (10-23-22)
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Funkspectrum (10-23-22)
10-23-22, 07:40 PM
#7
Junior Member
Side note, many after market DPs will require you put the studs in with the DP in place. It's a pain, but the only way they'll fit.
Last edited by Kalypto; 10-23-22 at 07:43 PM.
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10-24-22, 09:02 AM
#10
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you can also add a washer to your old stuff and re use it. new is better obviously, but its more a matter of what is easier to get in the space available
10-24-22, 09:02 AM
#11
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Few notes on this -
- Remove the ABS heat shield, secondary turbo inlet pipe, and Y-pipe. Makes a GIANT difference in room to get to everything.
- Get a pack of these: https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/M1...-p/pm33629.htm - they are VERY gentle on the studs and are copper coated to prevent seizing up if you do have to remove it down the road. They aren't as aggressive as Mazda's nuts. 9 times out of 10 they will come cleanly off the stud, and if not, you can many times remove them from the stud and re-use the stud.
- Use a thread chaser to clean up the threads in the turbo. You can use a tap but it's designed to cut new threads, a chaser is designed to clean up existing threads and get trash out of there. A tap can work but some times it can cut into the threads and try and make new threads.
Dale
- Remove the ABS heat shield, secondary turbo inlet pipe, and Y-pipe. Makes a GIANT difference in room to get to everything.
- Get a pack of these: https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/M1...-p/pm33629.htm - they are VERY gentle on the studs and are copper coated to prevent seizing up if you do have to remove it down the road. They aren't as aggressive as Mazda's nuts. 9 times out of 10 they will come cleanly off the stud, and if not, you can many times remove them from the stud and re-use the stud.
- Use a thread chaser to clean up the threads in the turbo. You can use a tap but it's designed to cut new threads, a chaser is designed to clean up existing threads and get trash out of there. A tap can work but some times it can cut into the threads and try and make new threads.
Dale
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10-24-22, 01:07 PM
#12
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Few notes on this -
- Remove the ABS heat shield, secondary turbo inlet pipe, and Y-pipe. Makes a GIANT difference in room to get to everything.
- Get a pack of these: https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/M1...-p/pm33629.htm - they are VERY gentle on the studs and are copper coated to prevent seizing up if you do have to remove it down the road. They aren't as aggressive as Mazda's nuts. 9 times out of 10 they will come cleanly off the stud, and if not, you can many times remove them from the stud and re-use the stud.
- Use a thread chaser to clean up the threads in the turbo. https://www.amazon.com/Ctooltool-Uni...-1-spons&psc=1 You can use a tap but it's designed to cut new threads, a chaser is designed to clean up existing threads and get trash out of there. A tap can work but some times it can cut into the threads and try and make new threads.
Dale
- Remove the ABS heat shield, secondary turbo inlet pipe, and Y-pipe. Makes a GIANT difference in room to get to everything.
- Get a pack of these: https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/M1...-p/pm33629.htm - they are VERY gentle on the studs and are copper coated to prevent seizing up if you do have to remove it down the road. They aren't as aggressive as Mazda's nuts. 9 times out of 10 they will come cleanly off the stud, and if not, you can many times remove them from the stud and re-use the stud.
- Use a thread chaser to clean up the threads in the turbo. https://www.amazon.com/Ctooltool-Uni...-1-spons&psc=1 You can use a tap but it's designed to cut new threads, a chaser is designed to clean up existing threads and get trash out of there. A tap can work but some times it can cut into the threads and try and make new threads.
Dale
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DaleClark (10-25-22)
11-01-22, 03:10 AM
#14
Just to close the loop.
The Lang thread chaser worked on 3/4 bores. I did have to resort to a tap on 1/4 bores. I actually bent the thread chaser on the one bore that needed a tap. I tried mightily to get the chaser to work, even before I bent it. I guess a thread was really galled, but the tap made short work of it. For anyone doing the same, I would recommend to have both on hand and to try the thread chaser first.
All studs are replaced with anti seize and holding torque, as the downpipe is replaced.
The Lang thread chaser worked on 3/4 bores. I did have to resort to a tap on 1/4 bores. I actually bent the thread chaser on the one bore that needed a tap. I tried mightily to get the chaser to work, even before I bent it. I guess a thread was really galled, but the tap made short work of it. For anyone doing the same, I would recommend to have both on hand and to try the thread chaser first.
All studs are replaced with anti seize and holding torque, as the downpipe is replaced.
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Narfle (11-02-22)
11-02-22, 10:59 AM
#16
I actually used 1600*F regular silver stuff, but I'll get a hold of some of the ultra high temp stuff to have it on stand by.
I think (hope) I'll be OK. Most of the information I checked mentioned post-turbo EGTs shouldn't get too much higher than 1600, especially in my run-of-the-mill stock turbo build. I'd think the turbo manifold would be lower than peak EGT temp.
Honestly if I take it apart again, it would probably (hopefully) be an engine replacement. I'm mostly trying to get the car and peripheral systems ready for a nice new engine.
I think (hope) I'll be OK. Most of the information I checked mentioned post-turbo EGTs shouldn't get too much higher than 1600, especially in my run-of-the-mill stock turbo build. I'd think the turbo manifold would be lower than peak EGT temp.
Honestly if I take it apart again, it would probably (hopefully) be an engine replacement. I'm mostly trying to get the car and peripheral systems ready for a nice new engine.
11-02-22, 11:23 AM
#17
I use it on every bolt on the chassis, if you keep the car long term it pays off by everything coming apart when it needs too
it will keep the caster/camber cam bolts from seizing to the inner suspension bushing sleeves too (on the inside only, don’t put it on the exterior cam washer surface).
the standard copper stuff at the auto parts store is useless in comparison, the silver stuff not much better.
it will keep the caster/camber cam bolts from seizing to the inner suspension bushing sleeves too (on the inside only, don’t put it on the exterior cam washer surface).
the standard copper stuff at the auto parts store is useless in comparison, the silver stuff not much better.
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