Replaced radiator... now it's not running right... HELP
#26
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Best I got is a piston compression tester...
But 92psi front, 92psi rear...
Any suggestions? (Aside from saving up some $$ & letting Chris @ Banzai figure it out)
But 92psi front, 92psi rear...
Any suggestions? (Aside from saving up some $$ & letting Chris @ Banzai figure it out)
#28
wannaspeed.com
iTrader: (23)
the main thing on the compression test is to verify you have 3 even bounces (on the gauge) on each rotor timed the same. Bounce... bounce... bounce... instead of bounce... bounce...................bounce.
Are you sure the map sensor is working properly? did you check the voltages? And when u say the car falls flat on its face does the boost fall off? Maybe the 2nd turbo isnt coming online, or somthing with the turbo system. are you sure the map sensor is connected to the right spot? Leaking injectors causing it to be rich? Not getting spark on all plugs? There is lots of things to check.
Are you sure the map sensor is working properly? did you check the voltages? And when u say the car falls flat on its face does the boost fall off? Maybe the 2nd turbo isnt coming online, or somthing with the turbo system. are you sure the map sensor is connected to the right spot? Leaking injectors causing it to be rich? Not getting spark on all plugs? There is lots of things to check.
#30
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
The compression does did do 3 even bounces... so I'm good there.
I was wondering if the MAP sensor itself could have failed... maybe that's why the hose blew off? because even with the hose connected, it acts as if it's not connected.
I am not able to get the RPMs high enough with high enough PSI on the turbos to get the 2nd turbo to come online.
I was wondering if the MAP sensor itself could have failed... maybe that's why the hose blew off? because even with the hose connected, it acts as if it's not connected.
I am not able to get the RPMs high enough with high enough PSI on the turbos to get the 2nd turbo to come online.
#32
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
I have no idea why, but my injectors started dumping fuel and flooding immediately after I started the engine with the tb coolant hose detached. I sprayed some coolant around the brake booster area and shut off the engine in a couple of seconds.
From that point on, I had problems starting/running that were only solved by replacing my injectors with freshly cleaned ones. Your symptoms sure sound like wonky injectors.
Dave
From that point on, I had problems starting/running that were only solved by replacing my injectors with freshly cleaned ones. Your symptoms sure sound like wonky injectors.
Dave
#35
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I'm getting the diagnosis computer from my dad to run checks on that.
I'm going to buy new plugs to rule that out.
& how do you test the map sensor?
& is there a way to test an injector without just replacing them? How much do injectors cost?
I'm going to buy new plugs to rule that out.
& how do you test the map sensor?
& is there a way to test an injector without just replacing them? How much do injectors cost?
#36
Call me gramps!
#37
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Well I finally pulled some stuff off, & saw that SEVERAL of my vaccum lines were either snapped in half, or snapped off at the nipple. The car has 125k miles... & Chris @ Banzai commented how brittle all my vaccum lines were when I took my car in last year. So something must have happened which caused a higher-than-normal pressure around my UIM, because that's were hoses either popped off or broke off. Since all the lines are in such bad shape, I think I'll just be taking it down to Banzai for a full vaccum line job (yeah, I know you can do it yourself... but it's a LOT of lines to run... I'd rather just have an expert do it... so I don't have to troubleshoot missed connections or worry about missing a line).
But I would assume that's my problem, cuz the car is running VERY rich... which I would again assume would be caused from broken/leaking vaccum lines...
Relatively safe assumption?
But I would assume that's my problem, cuz the car is running VERY rich... which I would again assume would be caused from broken/leaking vaccum lines...
Relatively safe assumption?
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