Replaced radiator... now it's not running right... HELP
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Replaced radiator... now it's not running right... HELP
So my stock radiator blew while driving it. Car started to overheat, so I pulled over & towed it home the next day. Finally found a radiator (stock) to put in. Put it in, started it up, smiled cuz it wasn't spewing coolant. Sounds good...
Took it out... drove it easy for a few minutes, oops, low coolant... went back home & filled it up again. (Low coolant due to purging air, not leak)
So with the coolant topped off, I head to my "test" area... which is a long straight road with only 1 house & plenty of visibility & next to no traffic.
From a stopped, I gunned it (as best I can) & it went just fine. I'm all smiles...
Stopped, & did it a 2nd time... perfect...
1 more time just to make sure...
I get going (on the 3rd test) & once my throttle gets about 50% & the boost starts to kick it, the car falls flat on its face.
After testing, I find that it's a throttle thing... whenever I go past around 50% throttle, it falls on its face. It's not an RPM thing nor a boost thing (I can hold both so long as I'm not over 50% throttle).
So something blew off/broke on my 2nd test I suppose... any ideas? The car is idling wrong... likes it's miss firing... the spark plug wires didn't fall out...
Any ideas?
Oh, & all I had off to replace the radiator was the basics... air intake... intercooler... & battery... & radiator obviously... & everything got plugged back together
Took it out... drove it easy for a few minutes, oops, low coolant... went back home & filled it up again. (Low coolant due to purging air, not leak)
So with the coolant topped off, I head to my "test" area... which is a long straight road with only 1 house & plenty of visibility & next to no traffic.
From a stopped, I gunned it (as best I can) & it went just fine. I'm all smiles...
Stopped, & did it a 2nd time... perfect...
1 more time just to make sure...
I get going (on the 3rd test) & once my throttle gets about 50% & the boost starts to kick it, the car falls flat on its face.
After testing, I find that it's a throttle thing... whenever I go past around 50% throttle, it falls on its face. It's not an RPM thing nor a boost thing (I can hold both so long as I'm not over 50% throttle).
So something blew off/broke on my 2nd test I suppose... any ideas? The car is idling wrong... likes it's miss firing... the spark plug wires didn't fall out...
Any ideas?
Oh, & all I had off to replace the radiator was the basics... air intake... intercooler... & battery... & radiator obviously... & everything got plugged back together
Last edited by TMadlem84; 04-06-08 at 05:26 PM. Reason: forgot something
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I'll check check the map sensor hose tonight. To answer questions...
It does NOT idle fine. In fact it barely idles/dies. The engine is 'noisier' than it should be & there is more exhaust smoke than 'normal'... so I assume it's running rich? Which would be caused by a sensor/wire?
I'll report back on what I see with the map sensor hose...
It does NOT idle fine. In fact it barely idles/dies. The engine is 'noisier' than it should be & there is more exhaust smoke than 'normal'... so I assume it's running rich? Which would be caused by a sensor/wire?
I'll report back on what I see with the map sensor hose...
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Sure enough... the hose that connects to the UIM had blown off.
Couldn't get the car started... cuz it's flooded to hell...
But when it was having problems... I could SWEAR that I hear a hissing sound coming from the location of the MAP sensor... I just couldn't find the air leak because it wasn't a constant hissing...
I'll de-flood & let you all know I'm running again. (Hopefully I'm not speaking too soon)
Couldn't get the car started... cuz it's flooded to hell...
But when it was having problems... I could SWEAR that I hear a hissing sound coming from the location of the MAP sensor... I just couldn't find the air leak because it wasn't a constant hissing...
I'll de-flood & let you all know I'm running again. (Hopefully I'm not speaking too soon)
#9
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Well here I am the next day... & I still can't get the car to start... tried de-flooding it (remove plugs & EGI fuse & crank)... twice... still no luck...
Is there some other trick I am missing?
Is there some other trick I am missing?
#10
Racecar - Formula 2000
Are the plugs clean & dry? Did you put any MMO, 2-cycle oil, etc., in the plug holes to boost compression?
Dave
Dave
#13
wannaspeed.com
iTrader: (23)
keep trying, it can be a B to start after you flood it. but it will eventually work. You should try pulling the plugs, pull the EGI and crank until all the gas fumes stop coming out of the engine (about 15 secs or so) put a little oil, ATF in one of the plug holes. Bump the engine over quickly to spread the oil out. Put new plugs in. Put EGI back in. start the car.
#15
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Got it started... by tow starting...
So it runs... but it's running rough... it will hold an idle... but at around 200-400rpm... & even if I hold the idle higher it is still roughy... & has black smoke out the exhaust...
Does it ever end...
So it runs... but it's running rough... it will hold an idle... but at around 200-400rpm... & even if I hold the idle higher it is still roughy... & has black smoke out the exhaust...
Does it ever end...
#19
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Yeah, my dad does, I can borrow his...
But the thing is the car ran fine... perfect... before the MAP sensor hose blew off... so I wouldn't think that hose blowing off would cause the engine to crap out... I know this cars are finicky... but still...
But the thing is the car ran fine... perfect... before the MAP sensor hose blew off... so I wouldn't think that hose blowing off would cause the engine to crap out... I know this cars are finicky... but still...
#22
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I can't seem to get it to de-flood unless I tow-start it...
pull/dry plugs... remove EGI fuse... crank engine (to remove gas)... put ATF in sockets... quick crank to spread ATF... install plugs... install EGI...
That's right... right? I've done it a few times & it's not even close to starting...
& it's more of a coughing with the smoke... I'll check the EGR...
pull/dry plugs... remove EGI fuse... crank engine (to remove gas)... put ATF in sockets... quick crank to spread ATF... install plugs... install EGI...
That's right... right? I've done it a few times & it's not even close to starting...
& it's more of a coughing with the smoke... I'll check the EGR...
#23
since your car is flooding.. try cleaning out the injectors by taking them out and replacing the o-rings on them and do proper right cleaning... there probably just old and torn or something... then place them back... they should fire back up...
#25
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
With the map sensor re-attached... I reset the ECU & got it to start.
It is still doing the same thing... once the PSI gets 5+ it kind of falls on it's face. I can also still hear a hissing sound coming from the area where the MAP sensor is. I checked the hose leading to the sensor & it's fine (no leaks). It's running very rich (my eyes burnt from trying to look at the MAP sensor area to check for a blown hose). So maybe something is leaking badly in this area... although I am getting exhaust smoke from the downpipe side (my downpipe usually leaks a bit... when something goes bad & it's running extremely rich)
Once the engine cools off I'll run a compression test & let you know the results.
It is still doing the same thing... once the PSI gets 5+ it kind of falls on it's face. I can also still hear a hissing sound coming from the area where the MAP sensor is. I checked the hose leading to the sensor & it's fine (no leaks). It's running very rich (my eyes burnt from trying to look at the MAP sensor area to check for a blown hose). So maybe something is leaking badly in this area... although I am getting exhaust smoke from the downpipe side (my downpipe usually leaks a bit... when something goes bad & it's running extremely rich)
Once the engine cools off I'll run a compression test & let you know the results.