Fatman0203

I got the shop manual didnt look to hard, but everything is easy with a moton on a stand. So how hard are they to take off if their inside the car? Ive gone all the way to remove the Y pipe, the downpipe, the intake fro the secondary just never the turbo's themselves. Also it says i need to replace the nuts. Why? Any special nuts to replace them with? Also how do I replace the C-clips for the actuators. Anything else I will need so I can put them back on. I want as little down time as possible.

tt2323

The actuators have c-clips you can get at Autozone..

alberto_mg

search for a post from arexseven or something like that

Fatman0203

Searched his name, but found somethign about a downpipe install.
Thanks for the tip.

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=arexseven

Fatman0203

Thanks Let me get to reading =P
14 pages!!!

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

It's really not that difficult of a job. It took me about 5 hours to remove them the very first time. I've done it so many times since then that I've got it down to where I can get to and remove the Turbos in about 75 minutes,...starting from scratch! PM me if I can be of any help to you. Good Luck.
-Jimmy

Fatman0203

Thanks Jim, I will probably just take them off and depending on their condition will consider a rebuild.

Fatman0203

Well just read all 14 pages of it. Doesnt seem to be the easiest thing ever, and you ended up having to ship them to turbo city. Im going to inspect them and see if they need a rebuild then I will consider rebuilding them.
Thanks for the tips Jim.

BTW why does the manifold crack? Just wondering? I thought iron could handle much higher temps.

Fatman0203

Ok any other things I need to replace or SHOULD replace when I remove them. Im reading here about oil seals, and the shop manual says nuts.

mgoddard1

You probably won't need to replace the nuts but it is recommended. You stand a good chance of chewing one up especially if your turbos have never been removed so be prepared to replace some of them. Also liquid wrench is your friend and soak the hell out all the nuts and screws on the downpipe, heat shields, and the turbo manifold overnight. All the metal gaskets should be reusable.

Fatman0203

The downpipe and heat shields I removed about 4 months ago, so hopefully they wont be to hard. Now Im worried about the housing ones. Im going to buy extra just insane. Thanks for the tip.

FCdemon

The turbo nuts will probably bring the studs out with them when you take them out, so invest in some new studs and bolts.. don't bother with kragen, find a good hardware retailer and bring your stuff to them so that they can match it... and all the nuts are crush nuts, btw.

instead of investing in a turbo rebuild on my stock turbos (which wouldn't have been possible since the ex. housings were cracked as ****) I bought a low mileage used set off of a forum member, and hopefully that will work out fine.. stockers are good for over 350RWHP with the right intercooler, so I'm sure I'll be happy with them.

...and don't forget the locktite on the new studs! hehe

Fatman0203

I was just going to call up Ray at Malloy and order replacements. Theres a shop around here that offers metric EVERYTHING a few cents more but well worth it.

skunks

if you wanna play it safe and you cant find any help locally, id suggest buying the rotaryaviation videos on the fd engine pull. i have read up as well on how to do it but it confused the crap out of me! watching it done in real life with video clears everything up very quickly. it shows which nuts to take out as well as which heat sheilds must come off and where the nuts are. i dont think anybody has dont a photo how to yet though and going on words gets very confusing i think.

SiKoPaThX

iTrader: (2)

It's not the high temps that make the manifold crack, but the Large fluxuation of temps that happen when you turn off your car. When you run under boost somewhat considerably, it makes your turbos VERY HOT, you can even see them glow red sometimes. Then, when you turn off your car, you leave them to cool at an extremely fast rate. This is what causes the cracking. The molecules expand at that high heat, and when they cool so fast, they cannot return to their original position correctly. That is why a lot of guys get Turbo Timers and/or let their car sit after spirited driving. If they are oil cooled while still running, it cools them at a much more agreeable pace.

I beleive that made sense. Good Luck Jav!

Fatman0203

Alright well since it looks like i'll be the first I'll try to document it well.