Hi all,

I am trying to figure out a way to get access to the inside back of the rear quarterpanel (driver's side) to try to massage out a tiny ding that I recently found. I tried removing the tail light but there is only a tiny hole (the one with the rubber stopper in it) that I can't reach far enough into. From pics I've seen, it looks like removing the bumper wouldn't open anything up to get in there either. My next idea is to somehow remove the bose speakers and trunk lining and see if that works, but not sure.

Has anyone gotten into the backside of the rear panels and/or removed dings there by any other means?

Specifically, this ding is about halfway between the fuel door and taillight edge.


Thanks guys!

 

I had a local company do it that specializes in paitnles dent removal. It cost me $60.00 to have two door dings removed. One was in the exact location you mentioned. He had all the right tools and did an excellent job! Highly recommend these guys. The company was "The Car Medic" and I believe their a nationwide company. I hope this helps.

 

i have one there too... i want to take it to a dentless repair place but i've heard that they sometimes drill small holes in door jams and such to get to them... i don't really like that idea, and was wondering the same thing. anybody?

 

If you remove the hatch interior plastic you should be able to get to it. Unless it's behind a brace. The Bose stuff comes out pretty easily. Even better when you don't put it back ;-). As in double the cargo capacity.

 

Some of the companies do drill a hole in a visible area on the door jam area in front of the quarter panel so they can get access to the ding with their respective tools.

They install a rubber plug after the fact.

It depends on if ur a finicky person, but I don't care for plugs.

 

would you rather have a straight body, or a little hole in an inconspicuous place. Id rather have a straight body. I paid a guy $250 to remove ALL of the dents in my car. after he was done, It looked new. The guy had to take the taillight out and drill a hole behind it to gain access to the rear half of the quarter, and a small hole underneath the weather stripping in the doorjamb to get to the front part. He then plugged the holes.

scott

 

What are the dents in your cars? What's the meaning of that?

 

Being that the body panels are made of aluminum I'd be weary of where you take your car to get fixed. With aluminum it's very easy to damage the surrounding areas when pulling dents. Excess heat can also warp the panels so if they are planning on grinding or sanding I'd definately look ripples in the surrounding area of the panel.

 

only the hood is aluminum.

 

if you have a GOOD paintless dent repair guy, there will be no ripples in the panels. If you look at my car, there are no traces of dents, or ripples.

 

Being that the body panels are made of aluminum I'd be weary of where you take your car to get fixed. With aluminum it's very easy to damage the surrounding areas when pulling dents. Excess heat can also warp the panels so if they are planning on grinding or sanding I'd definately look ripples in the surrounding area of the panel.


What is this guy talking about "aluminum"....he man this isnt an nsx the only panel that is aluminum is the hood.

 

Wait, He must have that special "aluminum Edition" RX-7

 

Thanks for the replies, everyone.

I will try removing the bose and hatchback lining to see if I can get access. Looking into the holes when the taillight was removed though, it looked like there might be some structure in the way. This ding is very tiny, only about 1/2 inch or less total diameter and very shallow. I hope I can get it out somehow myself.

Any other ideas about getting behind the panel?

 

Has anyone else heard that the paintless dent repair stuff can cause your paint to crack after a while...I heard that it can actually pull the paint away from the body itself. Anyone have anymore info on this...I have a small door ding in my passenger side quarter panel...Small but I see it and it bugs the **** out of me.

 

I suppose it's possible for the paint to pull away from the metal. It would have to be a lousy paint job though. Paint should be bonded so strongly to the metal that it would crack before it would release from the metal. To make it crack you would have to stretch the metal a lot, and it wouldn't look "repaired" - you'd still see a dip or bulge.

Lots of info. on the technique at: http://www.autobodypro.com/tektips/a...nt_removal.htm

 

if the paint doesn't crack within a few days of the job it isn't going to crack...old cars like these the paint has been cured on for years and years, much less likely to crack than new (as in new) paint. I had my FC done over a year ago, came out great...75 bux on a couple of areas that were still original paint (most of the car I've re-done)