removing stock twins
removing stock twins
right guys im intrested in removing the stock twins to replace a blowing gasket somewhere down there.. looks very tight down there... was easy to remove turbos when engine was out of car.. can they be removed with engine in car,,, how hard is it,,,,has anyone got any good pages that have instructions
p.s i did do a search ( turbocharger removal) found just a few weak threads.. got a feeling my search was a little pooo though.
p.s i did do a search ( turbocharger removal) found just a few weak threads.. got a feeling my search was a little pooo though.
I haven't done it myself, but I believe it's possible to do without pulling the engine. You'll probably have to drop the pre-cat or downpipe which ever you have, and remove the air intake pipes to get to them.
If you can get a copy (electronic or hard) of the Factory service manual, I'm sure that will help you do it.
If you can get a copy (electronic or hard) of the Factory service manual, I'm sure that will help you do it.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 1
From: Dove le cose sono fatte il vecchio moda il senso
TIPS:
Remove the Y-Pipe and all other connecting components first. This will allow you full access to the DP studs (specially that infamous top rear stud/nut). Then remove the WG/PC actuators (4-13mm bolts). This will allow full access to the front oil return pipe/flange bolts (2-10mm bolts) connected to the block. Otherwise you'll spend a full day trying to get to those little suckers from under and between the frame.... not a fun way to spend you're afternnoon!!
Good Luck.
Remove the Y-Pipe and all other connecting components first. This will allow you full access to the DP studs (specially that infamous top rear stud/nut). Then remove the WG/PC actuators (4-13mm bolts). This will allow full access to the front oil return pipe/flange bolts (2-10mm bolts) connected to the block. Otherwise you'll spend a full day trying to get to those little suckers from under and between the frame.... not a fun way to spend you're afternnoon!!

Good Luck.
areXseven is right. I just installed new twins on my car a few weeks ago. Remove the airbox, airpump, crossover tube, rear inlet, y-pipe, front inlet elbow, disconnect the oil supply, disconnect the oil returns at the block (rear) and at the standoff (front), disconnnect the turbo coolant lines, remove downpipe, remove the turbo heat sheilds and then remove all the studs on the turbos. The twins slip off and come right out the top.
The only thing that will slow you down is if you have a bunch of studs break. Don't let that scare you. Once the turbos are off you can easily remove the exhaust manifold too to drill out any broken studs there or at the downpipe on the turbos. Repair any holes with helicoils if needed.
It sounds like a lot of work but honestly isn't so bad if you're familiar with the turbos.
The only thing that will slow you down is if you have a bunch of studs break. Don't let that scare you. Once the turbos are off you can easily remove the exhaust manifold too to drill out any broken studs there or at the downpipe on the turbos. Repair any holes with helicoils if needed.
It sounds like a lot of work but honestly isn't so bad if you're familiar with the turbos.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 1
From: Dove le cose sono fatte il vecchio moda il senso
Originally Posted by tiger18
cheers for the tips arexseven.. just found a step by step guide,,,no pictures,,,,but tells you what order to remove,,,,what you think estimated time for removal is
My last Turbo removal took under an hour!!
But just as Mr. DamonB has stated,...broken studs will slow the process down. Just make sure you drench the studs/nuts with PB Blaster a few hours before the removal is started.
Last edited by areXseven; Sep 29, 2004 at 10:06 AM.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by DamonB
areXseven is right. I just installed new twins on my car a few weeks ago. Remove the airbox, airpump, crossover tube, rear inlet, y-pipe, front inlet elbow, disconnect the oil supply, disconnect the oil returns at the block (rear) and at the standoff (front), disconnnect the turbo coolant lines, remove downpipe, remove the turbo heat sheilds and then remove all the studs on the turbos. The twins slip off and come right out the top.
The only thing that will slow you down is if you have a bunch of studs break. Don't let that scare you. Once the turbos are off you can easily remove the exhaust manifold too to drill out any broken studs there or at the downpipe on the turbos. Repair any holes with helicoils if needed.
It sounds like a lot of work but honestly isn't so bad if you're familiar with the turbos.
The only thing that will slow you down is if you have a bunch of studs break. Don't let that scare you. Once the turbos are off you can easily remove the exhaust manifold too to drill out any broken studs there or at the downpipe on the turbos. Repair any holes with helicoils if needed.
It sounds like a lot of work but honestly isn't so bad if you're familiar with the turbos.
Originally Posted by areXseven
TIPS:
Then remove the WG/PC actuators (4-13mm bolts). This will allow full access to the front oil return pipe/flange bolts (2-10mm bolts) connected to the block. Otherwise you'll spend a full day trying to get to those little suckers from under and between the frame.... not a fun way to spend you're afternnoon!!
Then remove the WG/PC actuators (4-13mm bolts). This will allow full access to the front oil return pipe/flange bolts (2-10mm bolts) connected to the block. Otherwise you'll spend a full day trying to get to those little suckers from under and between the frame.... not a fun way to spend you're afternnoon!!

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 1
From: Dove le cose sono fatte il vecchio moda il senso
Originally Posted by Tom93R1
... I bet removing the actuators would make them slide out easier once unbolted as well.
Originally Posted by Tom93R1
I always leave the actuators on and struggle the whole time with the oil return lines. I bet that removing them would make it alot easier, but I am of the (sometimes bad) mentality that I dont want to remove anything unless I absolutely have to. I bet removing the actuators would make them slide out easier once unbolted as well.
I am also about to change my stock twins. Could you please post that step by step guide you found? I also want to thank everyone for the help because i had a nightmarish thought that the motor must be pulled.
some more info http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurboRe-n-Re.htm
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
Jul 1, 2023 04:40 PM
streetlegal?
New Member RX-7 Technical
13
Mar 17, 2022 02:46 PM
Turblown
Vendor Classifieds
0
Aug 18, 2015 10:01 PM
Frisky Arab
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
13
Aug 18, 2015 05:30 PM



