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removing stock twins

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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 08:47 AM
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removing stock twins

right guys im intrested in removing the stock twins to replace a blowing gasket somewhere down there.. looks very tight down there... was easy to remove turbos when engine was out of car.. can they be removed with engine in car,,, how hard is it,,,,has anyone got any good pages that have instructions

p.s i did do a search ( turbocharger removal) found just a few weak threads.. got a feeling my search was a little pooo though.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 09:11 AM
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I haven't done it myself, but I believe it's possible to do without pulling the engine. You'll probably have to drop the pre-cat or downpipe which ever you have, and remove the air intake pipes to get to them.

If you can get a copy (electronic or hard) of the Factory service manual, I'm sure that will help you do it.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 09:21 AM
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If you can get the down pipe off, the turbos come out no sweat.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 09:36 AM
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From: Dove le cose sono fatte il vecchio moda il senso
TIPS:

Remove the Y-Pipe and all other connecting components first. This will allow you full access to the DP studs (specially that infamous top rear stud/nut). Then remove the WG/PC actuators (4-13mm bolts). This will allow full access to the front oil return pipe/flange bolts (2-10mm bolts) connected to the block. Otherwise you'll spend a full day trying to get to those little suckers from under and between the frame.... not a fun way to spend you're afternnoon!!

Good Luck.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 09:41 AM
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cheers for the tips arexseven.. just found a step by step guide,,,no pictures,,,,but tells you what order to remove,,,,what you think estimated time for removal is
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 09:47 AM
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areXseven is right. I just installed new twins on my car a few weeks ago. Remove the airbox, airpump, crossover tube, rear inlet, y-pipe, front inlet elbow, disconnect the oil supply, disconnect the oil returns at the block (rear) and at the standoff (front), disconnnect the turbo coolant lines, remove downpipe, remove the turbo heat sheilds and then remove all the studs on the turbos. The twins slip off and come right out the top.

The only thing that will slow you down is if you have a bunch of studs break. Don't let that scare you. Once the turbos are off you can easily remove the exhaust manifold too to drill out any broken studs there or at the downpipe on the turbos. Repair any holes with helicoils if needed.

It sounds like a lot of work but honestly isn't so bad if you're familiar with the turbos.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 09:55 AM
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From: Dove le cose sono fatte il vecchio moda il senso
Originally Posted by tiger18
cheers for the tips arexseven.. just found a step by step guide,,,no pictures,,,,but tells you what order to remove,,,,what you think estimated time for removal is
It took me about 4 hours to do my first removal. But once you've done it,.....you'll know how to get it done faster the next time.

My last Turbo removal took under an hour!!

But just as Mr. DamonB has stated,...broken studs will slow the process down. Just make sure you drench the studs/nuts with PB Blaster a few hours before the removal is started.

Last edited by areXseven; Sep 29, 2004 at 10:06 AM.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by DamonB
areXseven is right. I just installed new twins on my car a few weeks ago. Remove the airbox, airpump, crossover tube, rear inlet, y-pipe, front inlet elbow, disconnect the oil supply, disconnect the oil returns at the block (rear) and at the standoff (front), disconnnect the turbo coolant lines, remove downpipe, remove the turbo heat sheilds and then remove all the studs on the turbos. The twins slip off and come right out the top.

The only thing that will slow you down is if you have a bunch of studs break. Don't let that scare you. Once the turbos are off you can easily remove the exhaust manifold too to drill out any broken studs there or at the downpipe on the turbos. Repair any holes with helicoils if needed.

It sounds like a lot of work but honestly isn't so bad if you're familiar with the turbos.
yeah, more or less u need to take all the components off both the top and bottom for easier access. Don't be afraid to break studs, that seems to be a common problem. DamonB is right, once you do it once...every other time will be so much easier.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by areXseven
TIPS:

Then remove the WG/PC actuators (4-13mm bolts). This will allow full access to the front oil return pipe/flange bolts (2-10mm bolts) connected to the block. Otherwise you'll spend a full day trying to get to those little suckers from under and between the frame.... not a fun way to spend you're afternnoon!!
I always leave the actuators on and struggle the whole time with the oil return lines. I bet that removing them would make it alot easier, but I am of the (sometimes bad) mentality that I dont want to remove anything unless I absolutely have to. I bet removing the actuators would make them slide out easier once unbolted as well.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 11:55 AM
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From: Dove le cose sono fatte il vecchio moda il senso
Originally Posted by Tom93R1
... I bet removing the actuators would make them slide out easier once unbolted as well.
On the nosey!!
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom93R1
I always leave the actuators on and struggle the whole time with the oil return lines. I bet that removing them would make it alot easier, but I am of the (sometimes bad) mentality that I dont want to remove anything unless I absolutely have to. I bet removing the actuators would make them slide out easier once unbolted as well.
I had no trouble doing it from the bottom with a 1/4" ratchet and a 3" extension. It's tight (what isn't on this car?) but can be done just fine. You only have to remove the two bolts that are in the drainpipe standoff.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 01:40 PM
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wicked,,,,loads of info,,thanks a million guys,,,,great forum this!
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 01:52 PM
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I am also about to change my stock twins. Could you please post that step by step guide you found? I also want to thank everyone for the help because i had a nightmarish thought that the motor must be pulled.
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 01:58 PM
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some more info http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurboRe-n-Re.htm
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Old Sep 29, 2004 | 03:57 PM
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thats the same guide im was looking at,,,tells you step by step what to remove.
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