I didn't have to loosen the belts, when I did this...keep trying to get the teeth to engage in the rear rotor (the motor has probably slighty rotated CW looking at the rear rotor), and when they do turn the motor with the gear until the keyway is aligned.

I wish I had a better explanation

GOOD LUCK!!

 

yeah that makes no sense, are you saying align the teeth of the stat gear to the rotor which will probably be just counterclockwise of the alignment pin, then i can just turn it was much as i must to make it line up and that's ok!?

 

that is what I did.


of course first start by aligning the key and trying to push it on...probably won't go on. Slightly rotate the gear CW trying to get some teeth to engage, keep rotating until you get some engagement, then when you feel comfortable with the engagement slowly rotate the gear (engaged into rotor) until you can get the keyway in the slot.

I say the motor relaxed CW (from rear) because if you watch a motor turn off (bay view)...it will kick back due to compression. Remove a holding point and it will want to kick back some more...at least thats how it works in my head. and when I did this I had to rotate the motor CCW to get the keyway to align

I'm routing for you!! let's get this done!

 

you did all the rotation via the stationary gear though right, you never once turned the crank?

the way i envision it is i get it to slip on the rotor and once it has, i just turn it whatever direction i need to to make it go into the keyway then i'm done

 

man i just dont' understand what's goin on because if i just rig it to fit the rotor then rotate it to fit the crank/keyway, don't i run some risk of it being off somehow? or will it simply ONLY fit one way?

will it push in by hand or needs tapped with a mallet?

 

right, I never touched the crank pulley.

the gear will slip on but the keyway won't allow for it to be pushed on the final 1/4 inch or so...then you turn the gear and press and smile REAL BIG! well, then bench press your tranny.

 

no, the teeth will only fit one way. I pushed by hand.

 

Update

 

yeah, update please. I am about to do this to my engine.

 

I wouldn't do it...unless you have a fly wheel stopper and put it in place before you remove the gear. Any compression in the engine will want to rotate the crank.

 

Take the plugs out first

 

removed it today with ease, the o-ring was missing about an inch section and was VERY brittle. so far no leak but I am still having my oil pressure problem. I will knock that out in a couple of days.

Thanks for the tips. I put the rotor at TDC, loosened belts and removed spark plugs just in case. nothing moved during removal and installation. People who have to do this in the future have no fears, just take your time and be careful not to move the shaft after removal of the gear.

 

I'm getting ready to replace my rear stationary gear o-ring, but before I remove it, I want to set the engine at TDC. Iv'e heard that putting the eccentric shaft key in the 9 o clock position (facing the exhaust side) is TDC but idk if thats right. Whats the easiest way to do that?