Are you talking about a turbo timer ?????


Those just helped after driving really fast to get home because you had to take a ****.

 

Yes I guess it is a turbo timer. I guess I'll take it out - or hit the head before I leave the office.

 

Turbo timers are cool, leave it in.

You set it for ~30 seconds so you turn your car off, walk away and when the 2 stroke outboard motor noises abruptly stop everyone turns and looks at you walking away from your car. Boom!

 

If it's not causing issues, leave it in. I haven't used the one that was on my car for years, but it hurts nothing.

 

My question is, What makes you so sure that these seals are good? We tore apart an engine with these seals and chatter marks were everywhere and destroyed the housings. It was used with large ports. The seals also showed tons of wear.

I am a big fan of the stock seals. They have the R&D behind them and manufacturing....how about going with a 1 piece mazda seal?

I know the big japanese tuners use OEM seals in their race cars. I have tuned a lot of cars and the best running cars with the least amount of noise are typically oem seals.

 

I SAID ON PAPER

As you have discovered along with DJ these seals may be a problem or certain batches are a problem so as always go OEM and forget about aftermarket seals.

Jonathan (allrotor93) gave me a set to try in my track car and so far so good. Possibly the new/old company E and J makes good seals and the take over company doesn't. Who knows but one thing is for sure aftermarket seals are always a risk and OEM are always good so why worry just spend the extra cash and go OEM if you are not making big power

 

Cool deal. I know Barry is running 450WHP with stock seals and his housings looked terrific. The guys making 400WHP+ on stock seals here and there cars are running great.

 

And for longevity at low to moderate power, the stock seals would also be my pick of the lot.

I'm still enjoying my car every week and still have had no problems to speak of.

 

Outstanding advice! I'm not new at the FD game, but I stand to learn a lot from the old hands around here. Thanks for all the info, guys!

 

Just read this thread top to bottom.

I'll add to the advice.

I've had 5 fds including single turbo, sequential, non seq, ported motors, stock motor, V8.

Don't install a midpipe on stock twins, leave the main stock cat in.
Until you are educated and have the proper mods to support it. It in most cases leaves you with out of control boost levels to put it simply.

It's for experienced owners or for those going to single turbo or who have a very knowledgeable shop working with them.

Next I suggest a simple manual boost controller left in the engine bay. I don't like electronic controllers where you can fiddle with settings while driving or accidentally disconnect wiring...set the boost and leave it.

Also water temp and boost gauges with warning lights or buzzers are a must.

Don't run more than 14-15 psi on 93 octane and if its hot outside watch temps and perhaps lower boost. be aware of heat soak after long laps or heavy driving on the street. Your motor is more vulnerable here. Make sure you get good gas from places like exon or chevron who make their own gas, not from 711.

I think if you can hold boost and coolant temps to proper levels the car is as reliable as any turbo car. Use high quality parts or leave it stock.
Modding creates the majority of issues when owners or shops are uneducated.

 

Five year bump...what a gem of a thread. Too bad the forums are going the way of the dodo.