reliability issues
#2
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: sunnyvale, Ca
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I posted a question like this when I first joined the Forum and got nothing back! Not a subject that many want to discuss. It's basically easy to pop the motor when doing mods. Keep reading posts, you'll know enough in a few days.
AST, radiator, vac hoses.....just for starters.
Good luck
AST, radiator, vac hoses.....just for starters.
Good luck
#5
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
Re: reliability issues
Originally posted by junt
Besides the engine what reliability issues plague the fd?
Besides the engine what reliability issues plague the fd?
Mostly suspension. Keep in mind, you will be looking at a car that has a sales year of '93, 94 or 95, but a manufacturing year of '92, 93 or 94. The engine may have been rebuilt since then, but the body and most everything else will still have the wear and tear of the years.
#6
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Montreal, PQ
Posts: 985
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I haev never had any problem with any part of my car for last 1.5 years. since I bought it. I have just done maintenance and mods. Well, I think the lightbulb in keyhole went out.
some suspension bushings start to go pretty early like said before, THere are paint problems, interror flaking, etc. but if you have 1994+ shoudl be pretty good. Main thing is take care of engine and car, and you shoudl be okay, of you start with a good one.
some suspension bushings start to go pretty early like said before, THere are paint problems, interror flaking, etc. but if you have 1994+ shoudl be pretty good. Main thing is take care of engine and car, and you shoudl be okay, of you start with a good one.
#7
Lives on the Forum
FD Body Structure
is fairly sturdy. There are no real issues with the body. I've noticed the pinch welds are relatively weak. I raise and lower the car regularly to swap wheels and tires at the track, so...
As for the FD's underpinnings, and parts that may wear out:
Rear ball joint bushings go between 50,000 and 90,000 miles.
Shocks may go between 20,000 and 100,000 miles.
Undertray may need replacement at some point.
All the rubber sheets and rubber exhaust hangers probably need replacing on a 8 to 10-year-old car.
Front end links might go if you're an autocrosser.
Front sway bar mount might bend if you autocross or road race.
Front lower control arm ball joints may eventually go bad, again if your autocross or road race.
Steering rack may weaken--if you have thick front sway bars, and autocross or road race regularly.
As for the FD's underpinnings, and parts that may wear out:
Rear ball joint bushings go between 50,000 and 90,000 miles.
Shocks may go between 20,000 and 100,000 miles.
Undertray may need replacement at some point.
All the rubber sheets and rubber exhaust hangers probably need replacing on a 8 to 10-year-old car.
Front end links might go if you're an autocrosser.
Front sway bar mount might bend if you autocross or road race.
Front lower control arm ball joints may eventually go bad, again if your autocross or road race.
Steering rack may weaken--if you have thick front sway bars, and autocross or road race regularly.
Trending Topics
#8
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Smyrna Ga.
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The body is very strong and there has been a fair amount of people that have raced the car in stock classas without having to do alot to the frame. The only thing that realy needs attention is the roll bar mounts in the front, they crack when you put track type of force on them. I think if you are going to run your car on the street you will be fine with no mods. There are some aftremarket people that sell braces. Pettit, Tri point.
Kevin
Kevin
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rgordon1979
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
40
03-15-22 12:04 PM
t-von
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
9
09-10-15 01:56 PM