Has anyone made an attempt to reinforce the door panels?

I understand that Mazda was going for a light weight solution, but these things are rediculous. The handles and grips/little bin are getting to the point where everytime I pull on them I am afraid I am going to break them off. These panels are so flimzy, a half inch of foam with things tacked on to it with phillips head screws into small plastic pillars and small strips of tin that barely distribute the load. Then there is such a high stress concentration where the plastic piller attachments are molded into the bin/plastic arm rest, etc, that they just break off. It really looks like something I would throw together in my garrage if it only needed to hold up for a couple of days.

Anyway, what I am thinking of doing is filling in some of the areas where there is extra space with some expanding foam, then trimming it to fit. then laying some fiberglass cloth for added strength. This will help with the flexing of the panel, but tying in the plastic pieces is another story. You can fix some pieces in place with epoxy which may help, but some of the little plastic screw attachments/pillers have broken off which complicates things. Any other suggestions? I am half tempted to mold new door panels out of fiberglass. Then you can cover it with vinal or leather and make a handle that bolts on, and remove the useless bin, etc....

Also, I am going to glue some foam strips into my doors, on the sheet metal in an attempt to reduce the hollow/cheap sound heard when shutting the door the '94 and greater cars don't have this same sound.

Just looking for some input.

 

I took the panels off and layered the insides with some fiberglass/resin. In the weak spots that is.... Seems to work good so far. Just be careful not to gob it up so bad that **** won't go back together!

 

Dude, I totally agree with you...I can't understand why they put so little into the enire interior...For what the car cost I think the innerds should have been stronger. My passenger side is starting to pull loose so I am going to take it off and try and reenforce it some way. Keep us updated on your project.

 

diddo

 

I also thought about getting some vynl of some kind and coating all of the panels to stop the stupid sqeeks i get when the base hits on a song.

 

Have you tried dynomat or any of the other sound deadening materials? That should help with the squeaks and rattles from music.

ERIK

 

It's mostly vibrations on the passenger door handle interior pieces. I think the seems are loose between them.

 

Now that I've removed my driver door trim at least 5 times, I'm contemplating all this too.

For the high stress corners, I've had some success using a 2-part epoxy to make a big fat fillet. I ran some around the inside edges of my door pocket lid and I think it now stands a change against daily use.

I also replaced all internal door fasteners that are broken and/or beat up. I'm also a pro now at reassembling so all fasteners are engaged and taut. I like the idea of gluing in a reinforcement panel in the door liner, but eww what a mess I'd make

Next McMaster-carr order I make I'll also buy some thin, high-density adhesive foam and line all edges where door components touch. That should alleviate a lot of squeaks and gaps.

I have an idea for the peripheral screws: buy some metal nut plates or nuts and epoxy them to the backside of the plastic block which they thread into, and then use a machine screw instead.

One thing I'd like to find is how to tie the driver door handle to the frame more directly. I have yet to think of something simple that will take the load of pulling the door shut that I can also easily detach when the door trim has to come off.

Dave

 

About the plastic part fasteners:

Take some thin threaded rod, drill out / epoxy in the rod where the screws used to thread into the door, leaving a sturdy stud of the same size. Then use a locknut and washers on top to keep things in place.