Searched quickly but wasn't able to find a thread on the recommended type of oil to use in an FD. I know it's a tossup between using synthetic or not depending on who you ask. I'd like to know what is the best non-synthetic oil to use and where is the best place to get it from?

Any recommendations are appreciated,
Xanitos

 

Oh God, not another oil topic

 

Do a search. This has been discussed many times.

 

I dunno what the natural oil favorite on the forum is, but Mobil1 10w30 or 15w50 are the handsdown most popular.

I think the non-synths are pretty much all the same, so just try to change it more frequently instead of stressing over brand

 

YUP

 

Valvoline 20W50 in hot FL.

 

Cannola oil for me and my car please. It's natural.
It will not clog your arteries or oil passages and burns very clean.
Won't harm the environment either.

 

Man...you're gonna have to run synthetic in the car. The rotary loves it. Mine used to smoke up like bong hit when I had mineral oil.

Although I did try the cooking oils. I was changing it ever mile or so. The oil would just break down too easily.

Garrett

 

Garret, your not suposed to change cooking oil, you replenish it all the time. You don't even need to change oil filter this will disrupt the balance achieved inside your engine once it gets use to it.
Also try Mazola, works the best IMHO.

 

So now we're using Crisco polyunsaturated in our rotaries?

 

Royal Purple 10W30. Hands down, the best stuff I've ever put in. Better than Mobil1, better than Redline.

 

I think elf or Motul engine oils are vegetable based... can't remember which one it was, though.

I have been using Royal Purple for a while and it seems to work well. The Racing 51 seems to stay cleaner longer than the 20W-50, but that is just an anecdotal impression rather than a rigorously tested hypothesis. I'm going to try Racing 41 next since it is a little thinner and I wanted to try a thinner oil.

-Max

 

I was using Mobil 1 Synthetic for a while (mainly becasue that's what I used in all my other engines that have the parts that go up and down). But, I recently took a trip to Rotary Performance in Garland and Chris said to use Penzoil 20/50. Main reason is cuz the rotary burns oil and synthetic doesn't burn and can leave a residue behind...He said that's what they use in their Partiotically Pained Drag Car...Soooooo, that's what I am using.

 

Havoline 10W-30 baby!

 

Not this again. Most synthetic burns cleanly - check their specs for ash content.

I run Royal Purple 10w-30. Keep the stock viscosity unless you run higher oil pressure or have ported oil passages. Keeping the oil flow rate high is essential since the rotary uses oil to cool the motor. Higher oil flow rate will carry away more heat...

Viscosity has nothing do with the oil's ability to resist breakdown. Just means that it is thicker and pours slower at the same temperature...

 

I got a question. Since my Pre cat is now out of the car (DP now) can I use synthetic safely? Since the main reason not to use synthetic was cause it could clog the pre cat faster.

 

I agree 20/50 is the best for your engine, because it is cleaner and burns better.

 

With cats on the car I used Valv. F1 Racing oil 20w-50, without cats I use Mobil 1 20w-50. No complaints from either.

 

What do you base your statement on? I've never read that anywhere...

 

I think you are referring to leaded gasoline.....

 

No, I've heard that you shouldn't use Synthetic since it won't burn all the way and will clog up your cats. That's why in my post I used synthetic only when I didn't have any cats on.

 

Just read up on the information on synthetic and non. You can find your reference there. Anyway my car is completely stock and I do not have any problems with using 20/50. Thanks

 

Actually, viscosity has a lot to do with the oil's ability to resist breakdown. Thermodynamics 101:

neu = (2*delta rho *g*r^2)/(9*v)

where neu = viscosity, rho = density, g = acceleration of gravity, r = radius, and v = velocity. Since density is dependent on temperature, we can derive that viscosity has a temperature-dependence.

Viscosity is also defined as the ability to resist change in form/resist flow. Breakdown qualifies as a change in form, in my book. It's important to associate viscosity with a temperature ... hence, why CRC tables list viscosity for chemicals by temperature indices. WRT oil, as temperature increases, viscosity decreases and thus the oil flows more freely. BTW, last I remember, oil was used to lubricate the engine internals and coolant was used to dissipate heat. Hence, the coolant passages in the engine block?

Ok, enough physics. As far as the synthetic debate goes, I wouldn't place any faith in unfounded remarks about synthetics not burning cleanly. Remember the Brett Favre commercial showing the engine internals between normal mineral based oil versus Castol Syntec? NASA developed synthetic oil (Mobil1 for all you history buffs) for spaceships ... primarily for the laminar fluid flow characteristics. I highly doubt that spacerockets can afford to have nasty buildup due to inefficient burn of the oil residues. But, go ahead, somebody prove me wrong.

 

It's "nu"

And I think "breakdown" refers to an actual chemical change. I don't think anyone was disputing the dependence of viscosity on temperature.

 

Well without reading anything but your original post..
Rotary Performance says use dyno oil 20-50W
The board and many other tuners have said Synthetic oil right now in the Texas winter I am running Valvoline Synthetic 10-40W race oil. When it warms up I will change to Valvoline Sythetic 20-50W race oil. I also premix with Marvel Mystery Oil. The valvoline synthetic is fairly expensive and hard to find. Most people run mobil 1 b/c it can be picked up at the local discount auto store. Also use the search this is one of the most discussed topics and u can find all the amazing details of it.