Team503

Ok, my "Replace Engine" light has been coming on periodically, and I thinking it may be time to start looking into a new block. While I will attempt to save this one, I want to be aware of my options so I'm not rushed into a decision.

I want to do a street port on the new engine and 3mm seals (I keep hearing about ceramic?). This should enable me to break low 12s or high 11s with supporting mods, I hope.

The car should be streetable, and preferably able to pass emissions with a high flow cat and downpipe combo.

I want to maintain the 8:1 static CR that's stock on the 13B - I feel I can get enough boost to hit my power goals with the car.


Utimately, the car will be a street/strip/track weekend warrior. The car will be stripped down to the frame and rebuilt piece by piece, but for now, I haven't picked up another beater to drive to work.

So what do you guys/gals recommend, who do you recommend I get it from, and how much would you guesstimate it's going to cost?

Note: I'm in Houston, Texas.

R Xplicit

rotary performance is in garland, tx. not too far from you at all.


i do not have a "replace engine" light, nor do i wish t have one..

rynberg

first of all, the "check engine" light could be anything from a bad oil metering pump to a clogged air filter to a bad O2 sensor. What symptoms do you have that make you think you have a "bad" motor?

If you are getting a rebuild, definitely look into Rotary Performance in Garland. They are experienced rebuilder and tuners of Haltech and PowerFC ecus, which you will need.

To get into the low 12's, high 11's, you will likely be looking at: intake, downpipe, cat-back, hi-flow cat, ecu, upgraded IC, and running at least 12 pounds of boost. Of course, you can also get a small/med single turbo with greater simplicity, but slightly less streetability.

For your rebuild, stick with 2mm seals unless they won't seal correctly anymore. 3mm seals do not seal as well and don't tolerate high rpms as well as 2mm (there's a reason Mazda went from 3 to 2mm). The so called greater durability of 3mm seals is dubious at best. BTW, ceramic seals (Ianetti) will cost you a bundle. I don't see the need for those with your goals for the car.

Team503

The reference is to the "Add Coolant" MIL.

And I know Rotary is up there - I've known Chris for quite a few years. I just wanted an unbiased opinion on who the best is, and what people feel the best setup is for me.

Share your knowledge!

R Xplicit

well, i was just stating Rp because of their location. i will hands down tell you that pettit is by far my favorite. nothing but the best. i used to not think so, but ****, cameron is the bomb-b. they are pricey though. however, everything is equivalent to what you receive in life.....

Team503

I'm smoking white smoke, continually losing coolant, and the exhaust smells sickly sweet, meaning a coolant seal is most likely beginning to fail.

I had planned on the Haltech and having Chris tune it, but I'm glad to hear additional votes of confidence for them.

I currently run intake, downpipe, testpipe, exhaust, Spearco three row frontmount, and GReddy pullies on 10lbs of boost. My personal best ET (I'm a really bad drag racer) is 13.304@109.84 - most people (Steve Kan included) agree that this is good for 12.8 or so with decent tires and a good driver.

My only plans for the mods are to upgrade the cooling system, upgraded twins (the M2s are looking mighty tasty), and the Haltech. I have considered a small shot of nitrous (35-50hp) to help spool the turbos.

This is the first I've heard of this. I don't mind spending money on the ceramic seals so long as it's worth the expense. Can anyone elaborate on this, or perhaps offer a different perspective?


Thanks for the replies guys - it's nice to know I have the ability to lean on such a repository of knowledge and opinion.

Team503

Awesome info - I didn't realize that the larger seals would drop the static CR (though I suppose I should have figured).

Oh, forgot to mention, I'm already running the turbos parallel.