Correct. The dryer for the Denso system is about 100cc smaller in volume, and thus that system holds less refrigerant.

 

How does this happen? and how did you loop the line?

In PR the heater is never needed so i wonder if it's a good idea to do the same

 

When I removed my leaky heater core over the winter I broken the plastic arm on the mixair door; I JB welded it back on which at the time looked correct but seems not to be the case. So unfortunately it's been the cause of all my troubles.

Anywho, I looped the heater coolant lines together by using another coolant hose and then capped/plugged off the heater core ends that comes through the firewall. This is just a temp fix until I find someone selling an evap case.

Update: freeway driving today, constant 43*

 

Just checking -- I thought the original owner had said that the a/c was converted to 134 --but the fittings are the screw type. does that mean it's still set for r12?


One post said screw types = R12, another said blue/red covers=134?
So, it looks like mine are screw type, but the one that has a cap is blue?

Can we tell from the photo -- what type of refrigerant is in there? There are no stickers other than the original OEM one for the R12.

Thanks

 

From the picture it appears it would still be r-12; the 134 "conversion" have the quick release fittings/adapters. I'll take a picture tomorrow of the extra 134 fittings I have.

 

The es-12a kit comes with adapters for 134 fittings if you were thinking of going that route.

 

Right, I'm going to try the Industrial version of the es12 that you referenced. Just checking on my connectors to see what I have now.
Thanks

 

Question for you guys. I'm trying to charge mine right now, system was dry no vac. Car is on fully warm, a/c switched to full and fan speed max. Here's the question: did you guys have to jump the compressor on to pull the refridge in? I've barely put 1/4 of a can in and already seeing close to 60psi and no matter what I do it doesn't want to drop. I wanted to see if anyone else had this problem as from what I read it was supposed to be just a plug and chug type deal.

 

The compressor should kick on once it sees pressure.

Is your A/C switch light coming on? I've heard of flaky switches which could be your case. You could jump the compressor to verify that it does work though.

 

compressor works i managed to jump it, a/c light comes on. Unfortunately i found out i had a leak at one of the fittings and dumped a bunch of the refridge out >.> this was probably why the compressor wasn't kicking.

 

Hah, that would do it. It's wise to rent a A/C manifold gauge set from autozone w/vacuum pump to test the system for leaks. Also you would be clearing the system from water/"debris".

 

Now that summer is over...

...sharing results from my ES-12a converison.

Never fully charged the system - didn't need to: the A/C has blown ice cold air all summer. So cold that I had to turn the temp **** a few up (just into the red dashes) otherwise the cabin turned into a freezer!

(reminder: i charged without pulling a vac, also used about 1 & 1/2 cans of the stuff from autorefrigerants.com)

ES-12a gets my stamp of approval.

 

what I like about this stuff is not that it blows colder than R134a
sure, I live in texas and colder is awesome
but from what I read this stuff runs at a much lower pressure which puts less strain on the system
it should lower overall condenser temps as well
most people block off the airflow to their dryer with aftermarket intercoolers too
I wont have much time to test before winter though as my car is going into the body shop

 

not that i would expect most FD guys to step into the 2nd gen forum but if you want to save a few $ and get better results....

 

I got my "Industrial 12a" in the mail today

it says one can is equivalent to 18oz
under the hood of the RX7, it says the R12 system holds 12oz?
are you guys seriously putting 2 cans in the car?

the guy also said not to charge under full vacuum, you want less than -10

I did check the FC thread before if you meant the freeze12 one, but I think that product is being discontinued

 

nope, R152a works and can be found at most office supply stores as "spray duster" which contains diflouroethane. also is a fraction of the cost of replacement R12 compatible mixtures and R134a, of which i doubt there's any R12 left in the system anymore anyways so evacuating it shouldn't be a big deal and gives the best results.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/c-charging-easy-cheap-safe-alternative-refrigerant-964688/

already switched one of my cars over to it and so far i haven't been unimpressed.

 

After putting a v-mount in my car, my A/C lines look like utter **** after bending them up. I want to put aftermarket hoses in, front to back, back to front. Does anyone have a list of what end fittings I need to do this?

 

Wich differetn between r152 and industrial r12?
Wich one is easier to replace the old R12?

Anyone have a report of R152a? is working good?
Why is not on sale on most shop?

What about jump direct to HFO-1234yf ?? that should be the new gas for the next generation car?

 

Bump fellas, I'm sure a bunch of you need this thread.

 

Well,
i Just installed the Industrial r12 of the Enviro safe and is working great!
Easy and fast.

 

bumping an old thread here, but where the hell can i purchase ES-12? enviro-safe seems to have gotten pwnd by the EPA and they don't sell and HC refrigerants to the general public without first having completed some certification...

 

i get it from ebay, i just checked and there's plenty available