Figured I would start a new thread because I haven't seen one RE: this issue in awhile.

I have the factory A/C system in my car, but it hasn't really worked since my rebuild 20k miles ago.

The system seems to be fine other than a pinhole leak. I am thinking this is the case a I recharged the A/C last year and it only worked for about a week or two before it was blowing hot air again.

I don't want to go though my whole system trying to find where this pinhole leak exists, so I'm wondering if I could try to recharge the system with one of those DIY kits that advertises the "stop leak" additive.

Has anyone had success with these recharge kits? I already have the adapter fittings so I could pick one up at the store, but I don't want to waste the money if it's just going to leak/discharge within a week or two, again.

Also, to all those who say I should ditch the A/C...don't waste your breath. I've been without A/C for the past few years and while I don't mind, my girlfriend says it has to stay (and work!). LOL

Thanks in advance.

 

http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm
All compatible with 12a oils, they have "stop leak" and it is supposed to cool "slightly better" than r12. You need the 134a fittings. 2 bottles should be enough.

edit they have a kit: Economy " Master Recharge kit" $29.95 ($7.00 shipping) contains: (picture) 2 cans ES-12a, 1 can stopleak, 1 high/low fitting, 1 Charging Hose
http://www.aitsafe.com/cf/add.cfm?us...frigerants.com

You don't even have to worry about replacing your dryer, as any moisture in the system wont affect this stuff.

I have this in my Tercel right now and after a 30 min drive I had to turn it down on low because the air was freezing my head on a 90 deg day. After I v-mount my radiator I'm going to put this stuff in my RX7 as well.

 

Either use real R12 or one of the new R12 equivalents. R134a doesn't get as cold and will never get as cold.

You really need to find and properly fix the leak first. If you still have some charge in your system, you can get a bubbling leak detector - spray it all over the AC lines, any leak will show as bubbles forming. I have some called Big Blu, works really well.

It's either a line that has a hole rubbed in it or a bad O-ring. The Orings are available from Mazda fairly cheaply, I think there's actually a kit with all the orings.

Dale

 

Thanks for the info guys.

Dale, I'm going to check all the fittings to make sure the o-rings aren't bad as you describe. Truthfully I don't want to invest too much into this as I plan on pulling the A/C as soon as we have a 2nd car...

I just want something to get us though the summer. lol

 

I had the same problem. During my rebuild I started checking it out and removed the metal clamp on the condenser. The aluminum looked a little weird under there so I started picking at it with my fingernail and it just started disintegrating, revealing several pinholes/cracks in the aluminum tube.

I might still have it laying around if you need a pic to see what I'm talking about. Prior to doing that I couldn't find the leak since the bracket was covering it up.

 

Tom, I have one of these: http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CEoQ8wIwAg and everything needed to recharge the system except for r-12 let me know if you need it. I could stop by one day and help you find the leak.


John

 

John, that's awesome! I didn't even know they made these...

I might have to take you up on that. I suppose I'll need to get the refrigerant either way, so I'll order that this weekend.

 

I appreciate this review. That sounds like some pretty good stuff. Back in 2008 I recharged my 91 vert with Freeze 12. It's nice and cold like original R12 but much cheaper. I think I'm gonna try this ES-12a on the Fd. I'm currently installing a much larger condenser with my new radiator set-up. Based on your review, it should be nice and frosty inside the cabin. With all the 100+ degree days we've been having, I want it as cold as possible.

 

FYI, I've been successfully using ES-12 Industrial for last 3+ years, in hot & humid Florida.

Don't forget to get a new receiver/dryer if you have a leak, and vaccuum hard for 1-hour plus.

Search under my username and ES-12 for more notes.

:-) neil

 

Yeah the problem with switching directly to R134a is that the rest of the system wasn't designed for it since it is not as good of a heat exchanger.

By the way, R134a is about to start phasing out after new standards were announced a few months ago. The replacement is HFO-1234yf and it will start being used on some 2013 model cars. The new refrigerant won't be available in small cans for DIY users and small shops. That's what they were saying in a trade publication I was reading a few weeks ago (magazine for technicians). I don't have the name of that article but here is a small article on the new refrigerant:

http://blogs.abcnews.com/scienceands...fo-1234yf.html

 

I decided to give this stuff a try. I contacted them first to make sure there would be no problems using it in my system and they said since its a small car the Economy kit would work just fine.

I'll share results after I get it.

 

They advise not to pull a "hard" vacuum. Their ratio is different and you can overcharge if you charge by volume. They say pull a lower vacuum, or not even one at all.

 

+1 for ES-12a and ES-i12a products. 2 cans in your FD and you'll be good.

As to pulling a vacuum....I too had this concern, however; I have always pulled a hard vacuum with no problem whatsoever. It is important to pull a vac so that you get any remaining air out of the system otherwise it will get trapped at the top of the condenser and drive discharge pressures up and reduce system capacity and efficiency. Vac'ing the system will also flash moisture out.

 

^^ That's why you charge by weight. I have never heard of a refrigeration system that would work properly if it has not had a vacuum pulled first.



John

 

Tom, I definitely want to do a side by side comparson of this product. My car has real R-12 in it and I want to see if it is indeed colder than R-12.


John

 

Perfect timing for this thread, i was planing on intalling my AC system back on my car.

 

I don't know why people get rid of it. 411whp soon to be 450 and I still have my A/C.

 

That ES-12a stuff sounds great. I think I might get some of that. Does that master recharge kit come with the industrial 12a, or their regular ES-12a?

 

Anyone install an aftermarket a/c system? I am going to have to relocate my ac compressor and make lines for my 20b setup.

 

Thanks for the info about ES-12 , my AC leaked out over winter so it doesn't work anymore and I was going to put R134 in it.

Has anybody tried this vacuum pump (ebay) ?

Looks like I can save lot of money doing this myself.

 

Interesting. I was just gonna have it charged at this A/C spot around the corner. They don't have this ES-12a, so I ordered it from that site, but they'll charge the system for me using the stuff if I bring it to them.

I haven't done it yet because I ordered a new drier canister and I'm waiting on it to get here.

I got one for $20 shipped from here:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=815015

 

I have a small leak at the compressor, I need to fix it. I am going to order this ES-12a stuff but first I will find out if my father in-law has some or knows about it. He is an AC guy and owns his own business, does commercial but he told me he can charge my system anytime I want him to. Maybe I should try the kit with the stop leak and see if it actually works for those that don't know where their leak is lol. If it works well I am going to put it in my mustang too, maybe I should just buy a case and try it out.

 

These TV-14 compressors tend to leak at the shaft seal. I have not had any luck sourcing a replacement--but maybe you will. If so, please let us know. Thanks.

 

A friend of mine sourced a new rebuilt Toyota part number compressor a few years back from a local AC shop. It was identical to the FD compressor, except for a high/low switch. I'll see if I can't find the part number. I do remember that it cost him less than $200 out the door.

 

Just checked online. This website has new compressors for $485, remans for $285. Check it out!

http://www.discountacparts.com/Mazda...~01478_RC.html