Recharging A/C - options and opinions needed.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 922
Likes: 0
From: KC, KS
My car was converted to R134 many years ago. Can it be converted "back" for r12 or to the new r12 equivalents? Sounds like from what you're all saying is that it would be better if I did. I've never been 100% happy with my ac temps on the real hot days.
Yes it can be un-converted. To do it right, the system needs to be torn down and all the R-134a oil flushed out. The drier needs to be replaced along with the expansion valve since they're basically un-flushable. You can either remove the R-134a service port adapters, or leave them. You're *supposed* to remove them, but given the access issues because of where they're located, and the ease of use of the R-134a connectors, I'd leave them. Once the system is clean and back together, you'd put ND-7 oil into the system, then charge.
Edit: These guys list 'em too, as well as gasket kits. Now the question becomes do our cars need a shaft seal or lip seal?
Bad news.
I wanted to have my system leak tested since I am worried there might be a leak somewhere. Since I don't have any of the stuff to do it, I dropped the car off at a shop this morning to have it leak tested & charged.
They called and said the system was completely discharged (again, probably a leak) and they would need to charge with 134a in order to properly leak test.
The shop doesn't know anything about the ES-12a so they don't want to charge with it, even though they said they would be fine with it when I talked to them before dropping off the car...
At this point they are going to charge with 134a, leak test, and then if all is good give it back to me with 134a.
I still want to use this ES-12a, so once I get the car back with 134a, perhaps I can reclaim it from the system and then charge with the ES-12a canisters at home...?
Any suggestions?
I wanted to have my system leak tested since I am worried there might be a leak somewhere. Since I don't have any of the stuff to do it, I dropped the car off at a shop this morning to have it leak tested & charged.
They called and said the system was completely discharged (again, probably a leak) and they would need to charge with 134a in order to properly leak test.
The shop doesn't know anything about the ES-12a so they don't want to charge with it, even though they said they would be fine with it when I talked to them before dropping off the car...
At this point they are going to charge with 134a, leak test, and then if all is good give it back to me with 134a.
I still want to use this ES-12a, so once I get the car back with 134a, perhaps I can reclaim it from the system and then charge with the ES-12a canisters at home...?
Any suggestions?
Bad news.
I wanted to have my system leak tested since I am worried there might be a leak somewhere. Since I don't have any of the stuff to do it, I dropped the car off at a shop this morning to have it leak tested & charged.
They called and said the system was completely discharged (again, probably a leak) and they would need to charge with 134a in order to properly leak test.
The shop doesn't know anything about the ES-12a so they don't want to charge with it, even though they said they would be fine with it when I talked to them before dropping off the car...
At this point they are going to charge with 134a, leak test, and then if all is good give it back to me with 134a.
I still want to use this ES-12a, so once I get the car back with 134a, perhaps I can reclaim it from the system and then charge with the ES-12a canisters at home...?
Any suggestions?
I wanted to have my system leak tested since I am worried there might be a leak somewhere. Since I don't have any of the stuff to do it, I dropped the car off at a shop this morning to have it leak tested & charged.
They called and said the system was completely discharged (again, probably a leak) and they would need to charge with 134a in order to properly leak test.
The shop doesn't know anything about the ES-12a so they don't want to charge with it, even though they said they would be fine with it when I talked to them before dropping off the car...
At this point they are going to charge with 134a, leak test, and then if all is good give it back to me with 134a.
I still want to use this ES-12a, so once I get the car back with 134a, perhaps I can reclaim it from the system and then charge with the ES-12a canisters at home...?
Any suggestions?
If there is a leak or if the leak stopper didn't fix it, fix what is leaking and refill it will still be cheaper buying 2 kits of the es-12a which will be around $60, it costs me something like $55 to have a shop recharge mine once and it had a leak so it all leaked out after a few weeks.
the ES-12a kit comes with everything for you to recharge it yourself. It also requires no vacuuming of the system so it makes it even easier as no other tools than what comes with the kit is needed. Just tell the shop not to worry about it, get the es12 kit it is cheaper than what they will charge you anyway. It comes with a leak detection and leak stopper in the kit, fill it with the es-12a, run it for a few days, pop the hood and look for yellow glowing liquid. That is where your leak is if you have one, if not you won't be paying twice to have your system charged.
If there is a leak or if the leak stopper didn't fix it, fix what is leaking and refill it will still be cheaper buying 2 kits of the es-12a which will be around $60, it costs me something like $55 to have a shop recharge mine once and it had a leak so it all leaked out after a few weeks.
If there is a leak or if the leak stopper didn't fix it, fix what is leaking and refill it will still be cheaper buying 2 kits of the es-12a which will be around $60, it costs me something like $55 to have a shop recharge mine once and it had a leak so it all leaked out after a few weeks.
They said they put a slight charge of 134a into the system to look for leaks with their sniffer. They found the leak on the line that goes to the firewall (on the passenger's side of the motor).
They said I could pick up the car and pay for an hour of labor ($80).
I can fix the leak myself (now that I know where it is) and I'll charge the system with the ES-12a canisters I have.
Just talked to the shop again.
They said they put a slight charge of 134a into the system to look for leaks with their sniffer. They found the leak on the line that goes to the firewall (on the passenger's side of the motor).
They said I could pick up the car and pay for an hour of labor ($80).
I can fix the leak myself (now that I know where it is) and I'll charge the system with the ES-12a canisters I have.
They said they put a slight charge of 134a into the system to look for leaks with their sniffer. They found the leak on the line that goes to the firewall (on the passenger's side of the motor).
They said I could pick up the car and pay for an hour of labor ($80).
I can fix the leak myself (now that I know where it is) and I'll charge the system with the ES-12a canisters I have.
John
^ HAHA, it bothers me you took it to someone else. Glad to hear they found the leak and it is a realitively easy fix. Does the line have a worn spot from something rubbing up against it?
This is definately the week to get your a/c working. Mid 90's; it is brutal out.
John
This is definately the week to get your a/c working. Mid 90's; it is brutal out.
John
^ HAHA, it bothers me you took it to someone else. Glad to hear they found the leak and it is a realitively easy fix. Does the line have a worn spot from something rubbing up against it?
This is definately the week to get your a/c working. Mid 90's; it is brutal out.
John
This is definately the week to get your a/c working. Mid 90's; it is brutal out.
John
Do not EVER use leak stopper. It has train-wrecked many a system. It works by hardening when it is exposed to air, and guess what happens next time you have to open the system up for repairs? That's right...the entirety of the system is exposed to air at which point the leak stopper hardens and will plug up various passages in the system.
Yes it can be un-converted. To do it right, the system needs to be torn down and all the R-134a oil flushed out. The drier needs to be replaced along with the expansion valve since they're basically un-flushable. You can either remove the R-134a service port adapters, or leave them. You're *supposed* to remove them, but given the access issues because of where they're located, and the ease of use of the R-134a connectors, I'd leave them. Once the system is clean and back together, you'd put ND-7 oil into the system, then charge.
Use the "industrial" ES-12, and you will get very cold temps, esp. here in hot & humidy Florida!
Also, you get better performance filling under a hard-vacuum. Also, don't forget to "purge" the fill line after swapping cans to remove any air.
:-) neil
Also, you get better performance filling under a hard-vacuum. Also, don't forget to "purge" the fill line after swapping cans to remove any air.
:-) neil
I still have to fix the leak, but I now know where the leak is coming from...
The M2 Airbox's lower intake hose clamp was rubbing on the hard line.
I ordered an A/C manifold gauge set, so after I patch the leak I'm going to charge with the ES-12a.
Looking forward to it!
The M2 Airbox's lower intake hose clamp was rubbing on the hard line.
I ordered an A/C manifold gauge set, so after I patch the leak I'm going to charge with the ES-12a.
Looking forward to it!
K well day 2 at idle I was getting 52 degrees after 5 minutes of running. Now I charged the system without any vacuum, just hooked up the hose and emptied the cans into the system. I will check the temp while I am driving today to see if they go down further. I have heard it takes a few days to fully settle and get the coldest temps.
K well day 2 at idle I was getting 52 degrees after 5 minutes of running. Now I charged the system without any vacuum, just hooked up the hose and emptied the cans into the system. I will check the temp while I am driving today to see if they go down further. I have heard it takes a few days to fully settle and get the coldest temps.
interesting, im curious to see if pulling a vacuum first would get you colder temps vs the ones your getting now, and will get in a few days. I'm shocked that the instructions recommend no hard vacuum b4 filling the system, this is almost unheard of in the air conditioning field.