Rebuilt engine horrible idle + smoke
Rebuilt engine horrible idle + smoke
Okay, I got a rebuilt engine from Malloy. It is now put in, and she starts up on a button. The problem is there is some type of smoke that is coming from around the turbos. It smells like fuel or maybe oil. The next problem is the idle is horrible, and so rough to the point it stalls if a rev it for a sec to 3k then let go. Oil pressure seems good 28-30. The engine really doesn't sound too good either, makes quite the racket.
I have basic mods, HKS intake, full 3" exhaust. Also, earlier it went ahead and overheated after about 5 minutes of operation (it was pretty hot here today).
This thing is running worse with this rebuilt engine than the old one with low compression!
Been working on it 12 hours today to no avail, someone really hates me.
I have basic mods, HKS intake, full 3" exhaust. Also, earlier it went ahead and overheated after about 5 minutes of operation (it was pretty hot here today).
This thing is running worse with this rebuilt engine than the old one with low compression!
Been working on it 12 hours today to no avail, someone really hates me.
Originally posted by GarageBoy
The smoke MAYBE the assembly lube. Not sure about the sound.
The smoke MAYBE the assembly lube. Not sure about the sound.
Originally posted by Tim Benton
who built the engine?
Tim
who built the engine?
Tim
Mazda dealership. They got it all together, then said that a solenoid was broken. I said thats fine and just replaced it myself, it was the charge control solenoid took like 30 minutes.
the smoke near the turbos might go aways. it could be something they sprayed the exhaust or turbos with earlier. that stuff is super toxic. how long have you let the car idle? did you drive it around? it definitely should not overheat. if it is then something was not put together right.
as the for the buzzer constantly going off they forgot to connect a little black connector between the igntion wiring harness and main harness near the bottom of the oil filler neck / spark plugs.
bring it back to the dealership. they need to fix their mistakes since you paid for it.
as the for the buzzer constantly going off they forgot to connect a little black connector between the igntion wiring harness and main harness near the bottom of the oil filler neck / spark plugs.
bring it back to the dealership. they need to fix their mistakes since you paid for it.
Yeah, thats the problem. They were having major problems putting the thing together (it took 3 weeks, and the estimate said 3 days). They even admitted to it being a "hard" job. So by last Friday I was fed up and had it towed off the lot, they claimed that all that was left was a mere solenoid and then the car was finished. I said I would do it, and that was that. They said fine, then you lose your labor warranty. I said, " Whatever..." and left. Obviously that wasn't all that was left....
Most likely I'll have to pay another arm and a leg to get it back there, and have them probably screw it up even more. I guess I screwed myself, oh well. I learned.
Most likely I'll have to pay another arm and a leg to get it back there, and have them probably screw it up even more. I guess I screwed myself, oh well. I learned.
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Oh, and yes I let it idle for five minutes or so. I don't think it is burning off, it looks like after 2-3 minutes of idling it lessens, but then if I shut it off and turn it back on it smokes bad again.
Sounds like a tow to a rotary mechanic may be in order. I would give the dealer one more chance to fix it. Then inform the service manager and zone service manager if they can't fix it you will seek outside help and expect them to pay for it. A local attorney would be very helpful in writing a letter if they don't get it right and/or pay additional costs to get it right. It wasn't a good move taking the car without it running right, still I think their responsible.
Search on your regional forum and see what shops are close to you if any.
Good luck.
Search on your regional forum and see what shops are close to you if any.
Good luck.
Yeah, I talked to some people and it looks like it will be good just to have an attorney on hand and tell these guys they have to get it running or else. The closest rotory mechanic northeast of Boston a good 2 1/2 hour tow. I think that is a good idea to give them one last chance to fix it, if not go to a rotary mechanic and have them pay. I will check my MAP sensor, but I am pretty sure it is connected properly.
Thanks for the help guys, you are keeping my hopes up that I will be able to sit and drive in it again before Winter.
Thanks for the help guys, you are keeping my hopes up that I will be able to sit and drive in it again before Winter.
hmmm found something
After snooping around my car for a while I found something that looks like a vacuum hose with what looks like a check valve (its black). The hose was connected on the lower part of the upper intake manifold towards the firewall, not underneath the UIM but towards the driverside lower part, but it was not connected to anything on the other side? What is this, and could this be causing any problems? I mean it is relatively close to the throttle body, so perhaps?
Ohh, I hope this does something@!
Ohh, I hope this does something@!
Nevermind, found out where that went. Idle seems better, but still smokes like a mad man. That horrible racket scares the hell out of me. Sounds like piston knocking (which it obviously isnt) but maybe one of the rotors is scraping...ahh...sounds aweful.
I seriously doubt anything is wrong with the actuall engine. Sounds like stuff just isnt hooked up right. There are quite a few connections under the uim that could cause similar problems. Also, you might want to make sure the hooked the coils up correctly
Here is a question i have though....
If all that was wrong was a turbo control solenoid why did you have to tow it away??? Had they cranked it up at all? Didnt they know there were other issues???
Is your check engine light on? Maybe there are some codes that will help
STEPHEN
Here is a question i have though....
If all that was wrong was a turbo control solenoid why did you have to tow it away??? Had they cranked it up at all? Didnt they know there were other issues???
Is your check engine light on? Maybe there are some codes that will help
STEPHEN
I told them repeatedly that the engine would run without the charge control solenoid. They claimed they new, but they wanted to do it while the UIM was off. So they didnt touch my car for a day, because this solenoid. Well, when I got it back I found out the clutch needed to be bled, that only 1 oil cooler line was tightened, and my driver side door wont open oh and my intercooler piping wasn't connected...."That solenoid is all that is left..then its done." Yeah, my ***.
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