SpAm@FC

iTrader: (4)

Hi guys
I’m in the FD game since a short time, I’m driving FB’s/FC’s since the last 10 years (my first car was a fb, therefore I was sold to the rotary )
Short story of the car so that you know what I’m dealing with.
I’ve got the car from a shop which is mainly importing Supras and Skylines to Germany. The car is from a customer who thought the fd is blown (water pushed out from the overflow tank). Therefore, the owner of the shop sold him a mkIV supra and gave him some money for the “blown” bone stock fd because he wanted to rebuild the car for his own education but he didn’t found the time to do it.
Long story short, I took the trip and bought the car blind with a damaged engine in mind. What I’ve got was a bone stock (except catback) black r1… completely untouched engine bay, untouched interior and a very good exterior (some minor scratches here and there but straight and accident free). Took the car back into my own shop, tested the coolant system, took a pressure cap from my FC and drove the sh*t out of it for 200km’s… That’s it; it was only a damaged pressure cap! Clean FD, clean title, ready to register with running engine, 78.000km for 3000€ (this are ~3970USD) The ultimate buy I think
I will pull my engine out in the next month for doing big maintenance. (all new hoses, gaskets, vacuum hose job, solenoid kit by aezknight, koyo rad, sr airbox, M2 large smic, water injection, ps2000 install, 3” exhaust etc. blahblah.) Therefore I’m pulling out the engine to do it right and to clean up the engine bay while I’m there.
I’m now thinking about rebuilding the engine because I will have to disassemble the engine to the shortblock anyways. I’ve NOT done a compression test yet, the car drives fine, starts fine, IDLE’s fine… money will not be the problem, tools are here, I’ve a big shop (about 300m²), I’ve got time and I’ve got big experience on automotive stuff.
What would you do? Of course I will do a compression test. But I think, also if the compression is very good, a refresh of the 80.000km old seals would be a good idea!?

Any input welcome
Thanks in advance
Patrick

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I would compression test it and not rebuild if compression is very good.

Radial GT

iTrader: (16)

Rebuild it before you have a apex seal failure. Its alot chaper to rebuild a running engine. Piece of mind is priceless. And rebuilt with new bearings you can really pour the coals to it and make reliable power down the road.

Take the money you saved buying the car and put it into the engine.

Good purchase!

Reno_NVFD

iTrader: (2)

There are rebuild dvd out there that can help you as well if you decide to go that route

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

What kind of boost and power do you have in mind?

Stock twins? If so, be careful with boost creep and full 3 inch exhaust. You'll need to port the wastegate or just cross your fingers and hope for the best

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

First things first.... do a compression test.

I had a very similar situation when I went single. I pulled my engine and tranny while revamping the entire power train. The one thing I didn't do was rebuild my engine. I had a great compression stock port engine. I made the power that you see in my sig..... Now that I want more, its time to pull my engine for porting and other work.

Do I wish I would have done it at the time? Yes
Did I know I would eventually want more power? Yes
Is it easier and cheaper to rebuild a good engine? Yes

So the question stands, what are the plans for your car? If your engine is healthy and if you just want to keep the twins and enjoy the power level they can make then you will be fine for awhile. But if you are in doubt, then spend the money now and do as much as possible.

SpAm@FC

iTrader: (4)

Hi guys,

Thank you for your input!

Plans for the car:

this season: suspension work (delrin bushings, new pillowballs, coilovers, swaybars, swaybar mounts, diff/gearbox brace, reinforced PPF etc.), interieur (bucket seat, harness, roll bar, steering wheel), electronic (haltech ps2000, fast reacting AIT, FC coils, water inj.) engine wise: stock twins @ 13-14psi, of course with ported wastegate, M2 large SMIC, sr airbox, koyo rad, new plugs+wires, new fuel filter, new fuel lines, cleaned injectors, fpd elimination...

next season: bnr stage3 (already bought, I also got your ceramic coated manifold from finster @ goodfella I'm also thinking about buying your coated LIM/UIM, will send you a PM today) + all needed supporting mods

Car will be used for very spirited street driving and mainly grip track days/drifting (no competition, j4f)

I was thinking about complete stock internalls except ALS apex seals and street porting...

There are pro's and con's for doing it this year... pro: piece of mind, cons: less seat time this year
I have absolutly no problem pulling the engine again this winter (I would do it anyways when installing the bnrs)

I think the best will be to do a compression check with a mazda tester and report back!?