As the title stated we did a rebuild on the fd for our first time
While the engine was out we went ahead and did emission removal
And full non sequential just like the guide from rotary resurrection now here's the problem we got the car started on the second crank but we turned it off right when we saw huge cloud of smoke come out from the passenger side lol found out we didn't Bolt the down pipe in ... After we tightened he bolts we tried starting it again but it wouldnt .. So we pulled the fuel fuse cranked for about 30 secs and it started to turn over so plugged he fuse back in as soon as I heard it was trying to starts ... But it would hold idle at all we had to keep the idle at 1500 and if we let go it'll slowly stall.... I don't really have a clue about fd's since I'm a fc guy so here's some of the things I think that might cause it to not hold idle

1 a few sensor wasn plugged in the 02 wire broke so we didn't plug that he knock sensor and coolant sensor isn plugged in

2 we didn't have vacuum caps so we just took short vacuum hose and looped it in to vacuum nipples right next to it .. Don't kno if that'll cause a problem but it was just to see if we can actually start the build ....

3 maybe the ground wires are bolt down to he wrong places and isn't gettig ground ?

4 hopefully this isn't the problem but we f$&@Ed up on the rebuild ???? Crosses finger / knocks on wood

Any ideas or suggestions are welcome thanks guys

 

New engines are always a bitch to start. They do flood easily, and with time that will get better.

Looping vacuum lines is no problem, that will serve the same purpose. O2 sensor doesn't matter at all for general starting/running. If the coolant sensor at the back of the water neck with a 2-wire connector is broken/not connected, the car will be VERY hard to get running when it's cold and will want to die, that's for sure. Any of the other coolant sensors won't affect the engine running.

There's only a few grounds, as long as they're bolted down and decent the car should start and run.

Let it sit overnight to fully cool. Make sure it's all ready to go, pull the plugs and clean them as best you can. Reinstall, get it to run, KEEP IT RUNNING for 15 minutes or so until it's warmed up. Getting it hot the first time makes a big difference, that burns off all the oil and crap in the engine from building it. Make sure you've got good gas in the tank, make sure your coolant and oil are topped up, etc.

Dale

 

Thanks bro Ill double check everything and give it another shot after work .... Too bad I can't leave early lol

 

hey guys we got it to idle but at 1500 to 2000 rpm ,sounds rough ... check engine light is on have no clue what it is yet but i have a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwvDLvbRPiE and heres a video of it with ldle set lower around 1000 to 1200 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ru6qCWcz3Ws dont know if its much help lol but im sure you guys will come up with something ...
we kept going over the vacuum hoses and plugs but everything seem to be in the right place so we're totallly stumped ... maybe we missed some? and oh yea when the fan kicks on the engine seems to run alot smoother..

oh yea and thanks dale

 

heres a vid of the check engine light codes .. all the sensors are plugged in so i dont see why it would throw so many codes... =?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lcnh93IWWe8

 

Are these codes effected by not grounding the battary correctly /accidentally plugging the power steering pump plug in reverse with the knock sensor ?
Maybe the ecu ground might have a play at this ? The two ground wire on the harnest that's on the ecu's end ... The car is currently at my uncles shop ....so i wont b able to get to it till the morning oh yea and the eight or so colored plugged are all wired up with resisters .. So