weepul

Bought an '94 r2 not too long back and need a rebuild since it was tuned improperly. Now, I have some mechanical knowledge, and I've pulled an engine before and disassembled a head before in the military, but that was a v8. I'd need some write-ups on engine removal, disassembly, rebuilding, assembly, and installation.

I can borrow an engine pull from a friend, and rent a jack stand, but as far as rebuilding the actual engine goes, are there any kind of specialized tools I'd have to rent/buy? Also, where can I get some decent rebuild kits?

My license was taken away from speeding for awhile, so I've got some time on my hands for a rebuild, but not the money to have it done by someone. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated =)

93BlackFD

rent a $50 engine stand?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

pickers usually only like 150


2 1/8" socket

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Best advice I can give you is find someone in the area who has done it before. It's a steep learning curve, and that will save you a lot of grief.

alwan16

engine hoist

load leveler if pulling w/ tranny

2 1/8" / 54mm socket for flywheel nut

flywheel stopper helps

engine stand w/ rotary engine adapter really helps but is not necessary

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Buy the Bruce Turrentine videos from Rotary Aviation and watch them. That will walk you through the process - if you feel comfortable doing what's on the video, go for it.

Rebuilding the engine itself really isn't that tricky. It's the tons of crap that's bolted onto the motor that's tricky. You need to know how to deal with gaskets, fasteners, air lines, etc., and you need to take your time, take pictures, label things, baggie up parts, etc.

Consider it carefully - there's a LOT of people that have torn into their cars to rebuild the motor and never finished it, mainly because they got it together, had serious problems with it running, gave up on it, and turned it into a parts car. That's just sad.

Get the videos and see how comfortable you are with your skill level.

Dale

obviousboy

one thing im gonna say thats kind of obvious
Have a nice large clean work area........

when I did my 5th gear synchro (yeah its no engine rebuild) I had everything spread out nice and neat...made life easy

weepul

Yeah I may get those videos, that seems to be an excellent learning source. I'm familiar with air lines, fuel lines, hoses, fasteners, and everything else that can be mistaken for other stuff. I've seen tips and tricks with stuff like taking out the bolts to the intake manifold, then putting those bolts in a plastic bag labled for the manifold.

I've had to take part in removing a body wiring harness off a HMMWV before and let me tell you, it was no easy task. Took about 8 guys an entire day to remove. One thing it taught me is how to lable wires and vacuum lines to remember which connect to where later.

I haven't checked into prices on any of the equipment, so I don't know if a stand and pull are really that cheap anyway. The reason I asked about specialty parts with the rebuild is because I've seen a video of a Renesis being put together, and there was a tool the tech used to insert the rotor with springs attached into the housing easily as one piece. Wasn't sure if that was necessary.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

You really don't need much in the way of special tools. Biggest must-have is an engine hoist - they're about $150 to buy, but many tool rental places have them, and you can rent them for the weekend pretty cheap.

You don't need a fancy engine stand - they're nice, but I built at least 10 motors on 2 sawhorses and a piece of plywood. Laid the plywood over the sawhorses and stripped the motor ALL the way down - no front cover, no nothing, just the absolute bare block. I made a template of where the e-shaft stuck out and the studs for the water pump, and drilled holes in the plywood. Set the motor on the plywood, and put it front iron down on the plywood with all the "protusions" sticking through the holes. Actually works VERY well. After you put the "sandwich" of the motor together, you can pick up the motor and set it down on the table "right side up" to start bolting external parts of the motor together.

The tool they used to install the rotors on the Renesis is VERY nice, but not necessary. You set the rotor in place with all the seals in, except no apex seal springs. Put the rotor housing around it, then pull the corner seals and insert the springs.

Get the videos and see what you're up against - they're worth much more than what you'll pay for them. Get a clean area to work in, and go slow and take your time, and I bet you can do it.

Dale

XSTransAm

make sure you have a pilot bearing puller

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

You can use a 5 gallon bucket for the block assembly. Put the iron face down on the open side of the bucket, and this allows room for the e-shaft and such during assy. I wouldnt buy an engine stand for one time use.

As far as the engine block rebuild itself, it depends on what is wrong with it. Plan on needing a rotor and housing if you blew apex seals...these are not always easy to source for FD's.

A wire brush mounted to a drill or diegrinder is invaluable during the whole process for removing old gasket material as well as cleaning mating surfaces inside and outside the engine...this won't harm the aluminum either (unless you use a super type R coarse abrasive brush).

IF you're comfortable with the turbo and vacuum rack assemblies, then you won't have any major issues with it. The block itself is the simplest part.