I'm just wondering if anyone have successfully replace their rear stationary gear o ring. My engine is leaking fro the RSG and I need to replace it but in hte manual it said taht if I take out the RSG and the crank moves. I will have to rebuild the engine. Is there any who can give me an advice on how to make sure the crank won;t move when I take the RSG to replace the o-ring? Thanks.


Vonn

 

A proper built engine uses the "O" ring and sealant on the flange. Most likely this is not your leak. Never heard of this failing.

I suspect that the rear e-shaft seal is the problem. It is pressure fitted into the back of the stat gear. This is easily changed by removing the trans and flywheel.

The stat gear does not need to come out.

 

You should look up the service bulitens on The rear stationary gear then. I have had 2 that were leaking . The o-ring just gets hard and brittle like the coolant ones do and it oozes a little bit.( Barely any that's why it is hard to diagnose.)

And it is pretty easy( I say this being a mechanic and I do not personally find it dificult) to do. Just make sure as you said in the other post regarding this that NO ONE turns the e-shaft while the gear is out. Then reinstal in the same location. You can make matching paint marks on the rear plate and the gear flange for reference.
If you don't feel comfortable doing it get a pro to do it for you.

 

I just replaced my rear stationary gear oil seal and the main rear eshaft seal when I replaced my clutch last month. In my case the stationary gear oil seal was leaking an d the bell housing was coated in black goo because of that. The seal itself was rock-hard and I practically had to chisel it out of the groove. When you pull the rear stationary gear just pretend you're diffusing a bomb and you don't want to disturb it . Carefully pull it straight out, replace the seal, and carefully slide it back in and you'll be ok. Putting an alignment mark on it before pulling it doesn't hurt either.

 

I saw the Tech Bulletin. I have the O-ring in order right now. Alright what I know is that I have to make sure the crank is positioned top center and that it shouldn't be disturb after I take the RSG out. it should not move unless someone on the other side moves the crank right? Is there any other thing I should worry about while pulling this out? What tools do I need to take this thing out anyway? 2 Flat head Screw driver?

 

I didn't have the rotor at TDC when I did it but that certainly can't hurt. The rotor should not move as long as you don't turn the crank. When I pulled it the stationary o ring seal sort of fused to the rear housing so stationary gear was sort of stuck. Carefully pry the stationary gear from both sides and it will break free and slide out easily.

 

alright that sounds good to me. I'll do it this weekend and see what happens. Thanks for the tip guys. I'll keep you posted.

 

I have just finish fixing the oil leak problem. It was a pain in the b*** putting the transmission in. I change the flywheel clutch and pressure plate while at it. now I'll have to test drive it. thanks for the help.