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I recently swapped out the 6 pillow ***** in the rear. This forum has been incredible with the information and writeups for almost everything I have done so far. As someone who had only done brakes, plugs, timing belts, oil seals, pulleys etc. it's quite an enjoyable learning curve to dig in deeper and get to know the FD more intimately.
While researching the pillowballs I found writeups on doing it with a press, and doing it with washers and nuts. There was some data on using a c-clamp and vise, but the images were all gone and there are some new, easy to order kits online that work with the pillowballs. I'm adding some info and a couple of pics to help future searchers who don't want to order a press, but don't want the pain of the washers/nuts method.
Each bushing took me about 7-8 minutes to press out once I got the hang of it. Pressing in was also about the same time.
I have no affiliation with this tool or seller at all, but just putting up this link to show what I purchased to do the job;
The only other tools required were a 7/8 inch socket, 22mm socket and ratchet/breaker bar (for the c-clamp).
The 7/8s socket is used to push the pillowball out from the non-circlip side. It fits perfectly without touching the lip of the arm. Probably the most difficult part is taking your time to set it up as perpendicular (90 deg) as possible when starting the pressure. The c-clamp has a pivoting end to accommodate imperfection. I would tighten by hand and adjust all by hand before applying real pressure. Pic here for the setup.
pushing out the pillowball 7/8" socket
I found the 7/8 socket wasn't that great to push in the new pillowball. It would work, but it was lacking a bit in diameter compared to one of the cups in the ball joint kit. The 'plug' was a perfect fit and allowed the new pillowball to seat straight and apply equal pressure all around. The socket had a tendency to slip and apply more pressure to one side of the pillowball. It's strange because they list the plug as 7/8", but it was wider than my 7/8 socket and could not be used to push out the pillowball due to the lip. It was only good for pressing in.
Plug OD 7/8''
I didn't take many more pics as my hands were covered in grease. I think one could purchase just a large c-clamp, 7/8" plug, a couple cups, 7/8" socket and be good to go. Any questions or if there is a desire to measure that plug exactly let me know. With these tools it was a relatively easy job even for novice wrenchers.
That's considered a ball joint press, Harbor Freight has them. I've used mine to do pillow ***** a number of times over the years, makes it fast and easy.
Finding the right size socket to push the bushing with can be tricky - it's not as much the size (7/8", 22mm, what have you) it's the OD of the socket and that's down to how it was made. I've bought a number of sockets from the parts store just because they were the right OD for a pressing project.
Yup, you'll need those big hollow cylinder if you ever do the diff hanger bushing.
I think I rented that kit when I was going through all the bushings and pillow *****, the pillow ball don't need any special socket, but the control arm and diff bushing is a different story.
A Harbor Freight press can make the job super easy.
Yeah, the problem is space issues for me with the press. I also doubt I'd use it enough to justify making the space for it. And in Canada we pay so much more than in the US. I think the cheapest press up here was around $400. I figured for the 6 pillowballs which is what most peeps change the clamp + cups method would be best. I did try it on other bushings on the upper control arm and it wasn't happening without a serious fight. So I still took those in to a shop (which I had done for the diff bushings as well).
Next time I'm out working on the car I'll measure that press in "plug" OD as well as my 7/8" socket so it's a bit more useful for those who might prefer to piece together what they need and save $$.
Yeah, $400 is too much, I think mine was ~$150. And you are right, other than the suspension piece and some idler bearing I barely use it in the past 6+ years.
Toe links were the hardest for me, even with a press. One of the two bushings on each toe link has a really soft sleeve and it had to be started absolutely straight. I screwed one up. Seems to me I let them sit in the freezer overnight.
That's considered a ball joint press, Harbor Freight has them. I've used mine to do pillow ***** a number of times over the years, makes it fast and easy.
Finding the right size socket to push the bushing with can be tricky - it's not as much the size (7/8", 22mm, what have you) it's the OD of the socket and that's down to how it was made. I've bought a number of sockets from the parts store just because they were the right OD for a pressing project.
Dale
I did them on the car - clearance can be too tight for a big C clamp or ball joint press, so I did it old-school with a bolt, washers and sockets. I shopped for sockets of the right diameter too and ended up using PVC pipe caps on the stationary side to protect the aluminum arms from cosmetic damage:
Nice. Just adding the measurements promised for future seekers. The pieces themselves are so simple to unbolt that I feel it's easier to do it off the car with the c-clamp.
ball joint plug for pressing in 7/8" socket to press out
