rear end again Broken
Nope when I turn the driveshaft input hub both output shafts turn , if I turn one of the output shafts the other goes in the opposite direction . As I said before it came off an 11 second , 450 + rwhp second gen . , and when he did a burn out you could deffinately tell that he had an LSD.
After closer inspection I am 99% sure its the clutch type lsd from the T11 , it got a cast iron looking ring on the inside about an inch and a half thick , I assume this is where the clutches are housed , the flange to which the ring gear bolts can also separate to allow for rebuilding the clutch assembly I guess ?. The only problem I have now is getting one of the axles in fully , when I look in I see something like a washer with a hole in the centre separating the splined "cavity" unequally, some guys said that they had to beat it in with a sledge hammer but I am afraid to do this , can anyone tell me if hammering or pressing in the axle would cause the "devider " washer to move into position and allow both axles to fit properly ?.
Last edited by Marcel Burkett; Aug 31, 2003 at 06:38 AM.
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From: new york city
i have a 6 puck act clutch and i broke 2 diff already so i bought a kaaz i had the kaaz for like 2 weeks its really strong you can feel it. i also got a custom trannie brace made. the kaaz should take whatever you throw at it. but remember to get all new seals and i would say gears too.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Sunny Trinidad & Tobago
Marcel,
I'd suggest new pinion, and side bearings while you're at it throw in a new washer to load the pinion properly or it will leak oil and wear out..burning up the diff and bearings ... and also, don't forget to get those spacers/shims to pre-load the side bearings inside the casing or setting the backlash will be a bitch... you'll need a micro meter as well to set the back lash properly ..well, that's what I'd do/did anyways.
I'd suggest new pinion, and side bearings while you're at it throw in a new washer to load the pinion properly or it will leak oil and wear out..burning up the diff and bearings ... and also, don't forget to get those spacers/shims to pre-load the side bearings inside the casing or setting the backlash will be a bitch... you'll need a micro meter as well to set the back lash properly ..well, that's what I'd do/did anyways.
Originally posted by SPOautos
If the Kazz and T2 diffs are the same why does the Kazz make noise and the T2 is quite???
STEPHEN
If the Kazz and T2 diffs are the same why does the Kazz make noise and the T2 is quite???
STEPHEN
well i should say HAD
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