rear driver side caliper piston not retracting
#1
no more problems, PLEASE!
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rear driver side caliper piston not retracting
followed 3 or 4 different write ups and nothing. bleeder valve is open, e-brake down. piston did not retract but it did move up, and now it won't even retract to where it originally was.
HELP!!!
HELP!!!
#2
I won't let go
I'm having the exact same problem. I opened the bleeder and cranked down with an 8" c-clamp. Nothing. I attribute it to a shot caliper. The only thing I can tell you is that it's time for a new one/rebuild. When I get mine done, I'll tear it apart and post what I find.
Of course, there could be an issue with the parking brake mechanics as well. Better off just getting a new caliper.
Of course, there could be an issue with the parking brake mechanics as well. Better off just getting a new caliper.
#5
Rotary Freak
Originally posted by ISUposs
Just in case Jimlab's post was ambiguous, you HAVE to screw the calipers back in.
Just in case Jimlab's post was ambiguous, you HAVE to screw the calipers back in.
#7
you can use a plier to turn the piston. you don't actually have to loosen the bleeder valve. Remember to note the position of the piston before you turn it. it has to be in the same position or else your pads won't fit into the caliper.
Your pads has a little nudge on them and these nudges have to fit into the slots on the piston. Otherwise your pads won't fit into the caliper and even if it does, you'll be dragging your brakes and heating up the rotors as you drive.
After a pad change, drive 2 -4 miles and do 10-15 40-20mph brakes to break in the pads. Check for excessive heat to make sure your pads aren't dragging. Mine did and the whole rim was as hot as a rotor! Luckily, no harm.
Also remember that the top and bottom caliper pins (bolts) are DIFFERENT. The Top pin is labelled G and the Bottom pin is labelled L. Mix the two and you'll be looking at a new pin as the threads are different.
Your pads has a little nudge on them and these nudges have to fit into the slots on the piston. Otherwise your pads won't fit into the caliper and even if it does, you'll be dragging your brakes and heating up the rotors as you drive.
After a pad change, drive 2 -4 miles and do 10-15 40-20mph brakes to break in the pads. Check for excessive heat to make sure your pads aren't dragging. Mine did and the whole rim was as hot as a rotor! Luckily, no harm.
Also remember that the top and bottom caliper pins (bolts) are DIFFERENT. The Top pin is labelled G and the Bottom pin is labelled L. Mix the two and you'll be looking at a new pin as the threads are different.
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#8
Ditto to what everyone said about screwing in the pistons. A needle nose plier worked for me. But, it's much easier by using a brake caliper tool.
Although with the bleeder valve, a mechanic once told me that on abs cars, you should open the valve when you screw in the pistons to let the dirty fluid out. Otherwise dirty fluid will get pushed back through the fine meshes in the abs modular. That causes an abs failure, and the modular will have to be replaced....a very expensive part.
Although with the bleeder valve, a mechanic once told me that on abs cars, you should open the valve when you screw in the pistons to let the dirty fluid out. Otherwise dirty fluid will get pushed back through the fine meshes in the abs modular. That causes an abs failure, and the modular will have to be replaced....a very expensive part.
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Frisky Arab
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