protunedperformance

iTrader: (8)

Just like the title states. Its day 4 of trying to remove this. I have tried what I think is all I can try. I have read thru all the threads on removing hubs and tried all suggestions that have been given. Anything I am missing?
I started with just pressing it and no joy
I have let it sit each night for the past 4 nights with penetrating oil
I have tried the largest sledge hammer I could find and I mean that thing was big.
I have pressed it and left it while adding more penetrating oil, about 6 hours under pressure
I have heated it to glowing red and then pressed and sledge hammered it.

And I know the top is mushroomed and I shouldn't reuse the shaft, no worries at this point its personal... And this is just the first of 2.

TonySeagle

iTrader: (8)

Have you tried to torch it? Heat usually works pretty well. To prevent future "mushrooming" of the axle, use the axle nut to where its threaded even to the tip of the axle.

EDIT: I see you said you torched it.....I have only seen one instance where the axle was seized to bad that it basically fused itself to the hub...making 1 peice of metal. I ended up getting another assembly from a local junk yard. (Not for my FD)

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

He's torched it already.

Putting the nut on backwards and then hitting it is my method. I recently picked up a set that could potentially be a problem. They were sitting outside for a LONG time and I gave a it a quick go recently with no success but as the OP stated it's now become personal and I WILL get the axles out

Are you using PB blaster as your penetrant?

Also you probably already did but be sure to apply the penetrant at both ends and let the axles sit for a day each direction.

If the axles win the war and you need some spindles with good bearing I have some

gdub29e

iTrader: (16)

A sledge hammer wont do it. You need a 50 ton shop press. I had to put about 30 tons on mine and then use a acetylene rose bud and get it hot. An by hot i mean hotttt. I put about 35 or somewhere around there on it before it budged. Oh and by the way, wear ear protection and eye protection. It goes off like a gun shot and the corrosion fly's everywhere. The bearing will be destroyed after but the only thing i am sure you want to save is the knuckle anyways. Good luck!

protunedperformance

iTrader: (8)

thanks for the tips fritz, i have been using a penetrant i use at work on aircraft parts. but a little pb blaster cant hurt i suppose. also i did make sure to soak both sides. my guess is its been 20 years since this was last done. she is a 93...haha

protunedperformance

iTrader: (8)

i maxed out my 25 ton press at work and axel just laughed at me. are you saying you torched it while it was in the press?

Dvst8

iTrader: (6)

Had the same problem. I didnt find penetrating oil to work at all on this. I put it on a vise and heated for a few minutes then used a sledge.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

I have an axle in the garage with the same problem.

Everything you have tried has been done, and then some.

35 Ton press and acetylene torch. We backed off when the upright appeared to be on the verge of bending a bit more than we would like.

Days of soaking in Kroil - also tried some other solvents.

Also tried freeze spray and hammer.

Face it - my axle is not coming apart, and neither is yours.

Time to buy an upright and an axle.

I'm keeping the old one around for a day that I get really ambitious and get a big angle grinder and cut enough of the CV joint off that the C-clip and be removed.

At least than I can press out the bearing and salvage the upright.

During assembly, be sure to use some grease on the spindle.

Speed of light

iTrader: (8)

What has worked for me countless times:

1) Heat affected area to dull red;
2) remove heat & immediately apply and reapply WD40 in a solid stream spray to affected area;
3) allow to cool & press. Repeat if necessary.


Applying the penetrating oil while hot will quench the area and draw the penetrant into the joint as it cools. It seems to be much more effective in this manner. I know WD40 to work effectively, I cannot speak to other brands or products.

A word of caution, this method will produce a ton of smoke and flammable vapor, which may ignite. Do this in a well ventilated area, use caution and have appropriate safety equipment. (When using WD40 the smoke usually doesn't ignite, unless you bring the torch into contact with it.)

If you can't get it off after this, it's not coming off--at least not without some cutting or drilling.

gdub29e

iTrader: (16)

yes sir that's exactly what i am saying, 25 tons wont cut it. Press it to 30 or so and put a rose bud on it till its hott. You already soaked it enough. Keep pressing it as you heat it up. Sometimes i even hit the side of it with a hammer. When it breaks free it will only move a tad. Then you'll be able to press it easily after that. Im sure it was laughing but it wont be after that. I have done quite a few stubborn ones like this before.

protunedperformance

iTrader: (8)

You were corrct sir, pressing while heating was the trick. I just didnt have the ability to make it happen at my work. I had to take it to a local shop and hand them a few bucks for there troubles. It took a couple of very experienced mechanics (20 plus years each) and myself about 2 hours to finally get both rear axels out of the spindles. I def made out better then they did considering we broke one of puller/ pressing tools. It was very slow going we would heat it while it was in the press and it would move a couple mm's when we pressed it, then had to repeat the process 6 or 7 times. And all this just to change some studs and bearing...which came out so easily compared to the axels. At least thanks to this most anything that comes accross my plate will seem easy. This has to be one of the harder things to do on these cars.