i have a really bad rattle coming from the turbo area but i cant find any rattling parts. and i can hear it in the exhaust from the back off the car. it only happens when the car is idling and when i let off the gas. could this be something in the turbos/engine causeing this? i completely stumped. anyone else experienced this? i am running a catless dp, nonresonated mid and catback. thanks

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ixed+my+rattel

 

Start with this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/fixed-my-rattle-noise-here-what-169138/

 

thanks guuys

 

yep thats got to be it.
thanks again

 

well i changed out the actuator and that deffinately wasnt it. what else could this be? its deffinately in the turbo area

 

I think you missed the intent of that thread. The post wasn't suggesting the actuator was faulty. It was suggesting that the arm of the actuator was not holding the TCV completely closed.

 

Could also be the passenger side motor mount heat shield. Mine was bent only a tad, but caused a hell of a racket.

 

i could have sworn i had checked all the heat sheilds. im gunna put the car on the lift and run it. its a last resort the rattle is unbareable. i was for sure it was the actuator but its not

 

im almost positive this is coming from the turbos. what else could it be? they were rebuilt 30k ago and only ran 10 psi on them. this is unbearable

 

I had a rattle and it turned out to be downpipe shield. take a look at that if your downpipe is stock

 

I know but it was way too rusted to adjust. Still didn't fix it but it still sounds like it

 

after searching for this rattlefor weeks, i finally found it. the wastegate flapper-washer snapped off inside the manifold. from the looks of it im going to need to drop the turbos out but i have also heard the wastegates can be ported while in the car so i dont see why this wouldnt be fixable. just curious if anyways knows how to fix this or am i screwed? thanks

 

You're not exactly screwed either way,

Disclaimer:
My experience with engines is basically limited to the flat four until just recently when I bought my FC convertible to rebuild.

now that thats out of the way, you should be able to have it ported without yankin the turbo, but you may run into problems later. Do it right the first time, take the time to yank the turbo and get it fixed, you'll save yourself a headache later on down the road.

The Truth Hurts.

 

There is absolutely no way you can port the wastegate on the stock turbo setup in the car. The wastegate faces the motor. What you may be seeing is the flapper door and confusing it for the wastegate.

 

well it may be the flapper door then. im not sure. i held a screwdriver against the peice that connects to the actuator arm and it went away. im job bought a set of twins off a local and ill be replacing them. is this a big job to do ?

 

Book time is about 7-8 hours. Faster if you have done it before. Makee sure to replace ALL oil gaskets and install new turbo coolant lines. Inspect all the exhaust gaskets. It sucks if you have to do it again. Most annoying part is if a stud or nut is seized. If any bind, heat it will a torch until it glows, then try again. If it tightens up again re-heat. I don't like to re-use any of the studs or nuts either. Put high temp anti-seize on everything when putting it back together.

 

alright thanks

 

ive had a rattle coming from the engine which i just diagnosed as the flapper in the exhaust mani. when holding a screwdriver again the actuator arm, the rattle went away. so i bought a set of ported/clipped twins and got another mani. now that ive seen the mani and the flapper design, i dont know how the hell it wouldnt rattle, theres 3 moving parts in the flapper itself! i dont have the one off my car yet to see if it is actually damaged but basically my question is does anyone else experience this rattle? i cant tell if its just a **** design or if mine is damaged?

 

It doesn't rattle when the door is closed because it's held tightly shut. The door is indeed a little loose on the arm because that's just how the parts are. But at idle it should not be wiggling around. If it is, you probably need to adjust the length of the arm.

Dave