dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

My 94 has 58k and I'm doing a vac hose job.

Not sure about doing:
- FPR
- Injector cleaning and balancing
- Injector bushings/o-rings
- ??
- re-wrap harness?

Doing for sure:
- Fuel hoses
- FPD
- Engine grounds
- Rear Tb coolant hose

I took out the fuel rail without removing the injectors first. Does that mean I can get lazy and skip buying new o-rings and bushings?

Dave

CCarlisi

Replace all the O-rings. I removed my primary rail, then the individual injectors and noticed they were somewhat flat in spots. It will cost you a couple of dollars for the parts and Ray at Malloy can get them to you in 2 days or less. Ultimately I guess it depends on what school of thought you follow. I have always believed in replacing things BEFORE they fail. The alternative is not to mess with the status quo-if it's not broken don't try to fix it.

I noticed you're thinking of replacing the FPD and the FPR. You might want to consider upgrading to an aftermarket FPR. According to the SX engineer that I spoke to the SX units function as a FPR and a FPD. In addition an adjustable unit will allow you to increase your fuel pressure, which in turn will give you more capacity for hp.

Also, replace or at least check your oil metering nozzles. They have a one way valve that is designed to let air IN from the nipple on the top but seal when the engine tries to blow air out through the same nipple under boost. To check them simply blow through vacuum line nipple to see if air goes in. Next, try sucking air back through the same nipple. If you cannot suck any air out the valve is working correctly. If you're already down into the motor that far it's very easy to check the nozzles. It's important to check the nozzles because if the valve doesn't work the rotor will not get any oil injected under boost.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Will do. I'm preventative.

I think I'll pass on the upgrade, since I'm never going past a couple bolt-ons.

Will do. I've been checking solenoids and I'll make sure I don't skip them.

Thanks for the tips.

Dave

Fatman0203

BURN IT!!!! HA HA HA HA HA!

Honestly why not go non-seq isnt it so much easier?

CCarlisi

Because even when the sequential system doesn't work you get about the same power you do with a non seq setup and when it does work you have it a lot sooner Also keep in mind there are only 4 solenoids that handle sequential control. The rest of the rat's nest is for emissions and the FPR (the FPR solenoid can be eliminated when using an aftermarket regulator).

Fatman0203

Ya but a cleaner engine bay is a happy engine bay. =P
Also Im not to wild about seq for track, the powerband fluctautes to much for me to like.

Custom

Take out the ABS it frees up a lot of weight and it really is not that big of a deal to get rid of it.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Say again, over

Geeseman, recommend replacing the small coolant hose underneath the UIM as well.

CCarlisi

I second that. I hate that little bastard. Last weekend I tried to eliminate it all together by running a coolant line from the water pump housing to the throttle body. Unfortunately the hardline that it attaches to is an integral part of the rat's nest support frame.
I decided to put the project on hold so I could get the car back together by the end of the weekend, but its days are numbered.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I like my car stock. That's part of its charm (and challenge).

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Got all coolant hoses replaced or ready to go in. What works best for removing the lumpy corrosion on the ends of the coolant line nipples?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

What about the injectors? Can I wait another 20k to have them cleaned/balanced? (Would a couple bottles of cleaner additive work ok for now?)

Custom

I reworked my whole wiring and ran everything from bumper to bumper inside the frame where i could and put it all in tubing to reduce teh cluttered look. It was alot of work but pretty easy just replace the wire with different ones and run one at a time

DamonB

Just use some steel wool, it should come off easily.

You're on the right track with the work you're doing. Replace everything under there that's rubber: all the coolant hoses and the injector o-rings. Check the oil metering tubes closely but they should be just fine. Many times there's 10 years worth of dropped nuts and bolts between the LIM and the block. Now is a good time to retrieve them (My car had 2(!) oil caps dropped under the elbow and resting on the coil rack which I found the first time I put wires on it )

The injector o-rings probably don't actually need replacing yet but you will be buying yourself time and it costs practically nothing to do as CCarlisi said.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Hmm, I wonder if wrapping the coolant and fuel hoses with insulating tape or something similar would prolong their life? Or a higher-temp version of those foam hose insulator tubes?

...off to Summit and McMaster-Carr...

Dave

DamonB

My car had a small engine fire that was caused by a pinhole in the fuel line running from the primary rail to the secondary rail and my car had the recall performed already. The fuel lines harden just like the other rubber parts.

When I replaced everything from the fire (insurance thank god) I added fire sleeve around all the fuel lines in the engine compartment. I won't know if it's helped until the new lines age again but it certainly makes me feel better. Fire sleeve is common in aircraft, it both insulates the hose and deters flame. I burnt a sample of mine with a torch and it doesn't even support melting, it barely charred at all in direct flame.

Fyrejacket from Baker Precision

Snook

iTrader: (12)

sorry to go off topic I was looking through goodfellas website and you must be joking me with that shift ****! its like a ******* broom stick hahhaa do you have to have the sunroof open to shift gears

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/375434/2

any way dont go non sequential. just do the hose job and whatever else looks like it needs it badly. personally I dont touch anything unless its broken because then you will break something. for the currosion use some sandpaper around 100 grit so it comes off faster then hit it with the steel wool after to smooth it out

good luck and try to get it back together asap so you dont forget how everything goes. that will give you problems later on if you dont have something on exactly right

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Thanks. I took pictures and have a 2' x 3' print of the vac hose diagram on the wall. Each hose I pulled I noted the dia/length and made sure it matched the arrangement in the diagram. It will be at least a week till it's sewn up again since I have other things to do and will wait for parts to come in.

Dave

jdhuegel1

Pics?

Sonny

I would have them cleaned while you've got everything apart. RC Engineering (http://www.rceng.com) costs about $25/injector and they have a 1-2 day turnaround.

Rich at Cruzin Performance (http://www.cruzinperformance.com) costs about half that much, but you don't get a worksheet showing before/after results. He's a little more backlogged than RC is.

I've used both places and am happy with both. When I do a hose job in the next few weeks, I'm having RC do my injectors.

Sonny