Radiator World radiator oppinion
#1
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Oak Park, Il
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Radiator World radiator oppinion
Hey guys,
I will be upgrading my radiator and upper/lower radiator hoses next. my application is for street driven fd (no track or dd).
I've searched the forums and couldnt find much info on the RW radiators. I understand the koyo, fluidline etc are prefered by alot of FD owners but for my application it seems this model would work and also save me money towards other upgrades instead. I needed to know if anyone out there is running this particular model if so what is your oppinion on it and were there any fitment problems or write ups for it. the one im refering to is the middle one on this page for $252.51
thanks!
http://www.radiatorworld.com/radiato...no=15108&cat=1
I will be upgrading my radiator and upper/lower radiator hoses next. my application is for street driven fd (no track or dd).
I've searched the forums and couldnt find much info on the RW radiators. I understand the koyo, fluidline etc are prefered by alot of FD owners but for my application it seems this model would work and also save me money towards other upgrades instead. I needed to know if anyone out there is running this particular model if so what is your oppinion on it and were there any fitment problems or write ups for it. the one im refering to is the middle one on this page for $252.51
thanks!
http://www.radiatorworld.com/radiato...no=15108&cat=1
#2
Constant threat
I used the first one, the OEM replacement and love it. I think there are a couple of members that have used the aluminum one and it works fine. Hopefully they will chime in. All I know for sure is that the first one is a PERFECT fit, PERFECT replacement.
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bajaman
there was a mention on weight difference of the oem replacement you mentioned is it that much heavier then the aluminum ones in your opinion? and as far as replacing rad hoses is it a wise investment to replace ALL the hoses at a price of about 150.00 plush shipping vrs. just the main two for about 40.00
neit jnf
thanks for the info and write up. seems working on these cars is always a good wrestling match!
thanks guys!
there was a mention on weight difference of the oem replacement you mentioned is it that much heavier then the aluminum ones in your opinion? and as far as replacing rad hoses is it a wise investment to replace ALL the hoses at a price of about 150.00 plush shipping vrs. just the main two for about 40.00
neit jnf
thanks for the info and write up. seems working on these cars is always a good wrestling match!
thanks guys!
#5
TANSTAFL
iTrader: (13)
I'm using the CSF aluminum street performance rad and I love it. Fits great and is very well made.
There have been several theads about those radiators recently. Do a search for "CSF+radiator+aluminum".
Some people had problems with the regular copper radiator. It has a low fin count and is not multi-louvered like the stocker or the aluminum performance radiator. One person had a manufacturing defect on the aluminum one (one hose connection was not cut properly before welding and would have blocked flow) and radiatorworld sent them a new one quickly.
There have been several theads about those radiators recently. Do a search for "CSF+radiator+aluminum".
Some people had problems with the regular copper radiator. It has a low fin count and is not multi-louvered like the stocker or the aluminum performance radiator. One person had a manufacturing defect on the aluminum one (one hose connection was not cut properly before welding and would have blocked flow) and radiatorworld sent them a new one quickly.
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#8
Constant threat
bajaman
there was a mention on weight difference of the oem replacement you mentioned is it that much heavier then the aluminum ones in your opinion? and as far as replacing rad hoses is it a wise investment to replace ALL the hoses at a price of about 150.00 plush shipping vrs. just the main two for about 40.00
neit jnf
thanks for the info and write up. seems working on these cars is always a good wrestling match!
thanks guys!
there was a mention on weight difference of the oem replacement you mentioned is it that much heavier then the aluminum ones in your opinion? and as far as replacing rad hoses is it a wise investment to replace ALL the hoses at a price of about 150.00 plush shipping vrs. just the main two for about 40.00
neit jnf
thanks for the info and write up. seems working on these cars is always a good wrestling match!
thanks guys!
And yes, it is WELL worth it to replace your hoses. I replaced every single hose in my car when I rebuilt it...every...single...hose. Now the engine bay is just like (or better than!) brand new. It gives one a great sense of security.
#9
sleeper
iTrader: (6)
bajaman
there was a mention on weight difference of the oem replacement you mentioned is it that much heavier then the aluminum ones in your opinion? and as far as replacing rad hoses is it a wise investment to replace ALL the hoses at a price of about 150.00 plush shipping vrs. just the main two for about 40.00
neit jnf
thanks for the info and write up. seems working on these cars is always a good wrestling match!
thanks guys!
there was a mention on weight difference of the oem replacement you mentioned is it that much heavier then the aluminum ones in your opinion? and as far as replacing rad hoses is it a wise investment to replace ALL the hoses at a price of about 150.00 plush shipping vrs. just the main two for about 40.00
neit jnf
thanks for the info and write up. seems working on these cars is always a good wrestling match!
thanks guys!
#10
Racecar - Formula 2000
Although their aluminum rads seem to be well liked, here are a few words of caution, based on my experience with the all copper/brass one:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/radiatorworld-com-radiator-assessment-660256/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/radiatorworld-com-radiator-assessment-660256/
#17
Back on the road again!
iTrader: (4)
1. Increase and bend the radiator tabs cutouts
2. Cut sheetmetal on the car to make it fit.
3. Bend A/C lines.
4. Bend the bottom supporting mount for the radiator - I think this is part of the sway-bar mounts.
5. Replace the drain plug with SS fittings since the original seized within the threads.
Looking back - I would have spent the extra $ for the Koyo/Fluidyne/Mazdaspeed to avoid the hassle.
#19
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
I looked at the dimensions and expected to do some work but this what I had to do (this was a ~3 years ago so I probably forgot some other steps):
1. Increase and bend the radiator tabs cutouts
2. Cut sheetmetal on the car to make it fit.
3. Bend A/C lines.
4. Bend the bottom supporting mount for the radiator - I think this is part of the sway-bar mounts.
5. Replace the drain plug with SS fittings since the original seized within the threads.
Looking back - I would have spent the extra $ for the Koyo/Fluidyne/Mazdaspeed to avoid the hassle.
1. Increase and bend the radiator tabs cutouts
2. Cut sheetmetal on the car to make it fit.
3. Bend A/C lines.
4. Bend the bottom supporting mount for the radiator - I think this is part of the sway-bar mounts.
5. Replace the drain plug with SS fittings since the original seized within the threads.
Looking back - I would have spent the extra $ for the Koyo/Fluidyne/Mazdaspeed to avoid the hassle.
While I did have some work to install mine, I didn't do all the things you listed. However, I also installed the Widefoot Billet Swaybar mounts which help with the mounting as well.
#20
Back on the road again!
iTrader: (4)
To be honest, there is no reason to buy that large of a radiator unless you are routinely tracking your car. If you are tracking the car, then the work to install such a part is not really that big of a deal.
While I did have some work to install mine, I didn't do all the things you listed. However, I also installed the Widefoot Billet Swaybar mounts which help with the mounting as well.
While I did have some work to install mine, I didn't do all the things you listed. However, I also installed the Widefoot Billet Swaybar mounts which help with the mounting as well.
In any case and hindsight - I would have spent the extra $ for better fitment on a performace oriented radiator. If the OEM-type/spec radiator fits perfectly, then more power to the end-user.