Recently a huge puddle of coolant appeared under my 93 FD while I was in a parking lot. Lucky, my local rotary mechanic was less than 2 miles away, so I dropped it off at the shop for them to start the inspection. Turns out I need a new radiator

I was a little shocked by the price of the quotes they started to give me though....

They recommended that I replace the stock radiator with an aluminum version (understandable) and also suggested that I go with this: (http://www.awrracing.com/store/produ...&products_id=5). But 505 bucks?? Now my car's 100% stock. I'm planning on installing a downpipe eventually but that's it. Do I really need a 505 dollar radiator? Instead I was considering going with the 'Economy Upgrade Radiator' from rx7.com (http://rx7.com/store/rx7/fdengine_cooling.html). Thoughts? Other sugguestions?

Another problem I had quote was the installation cost...390 bucks I was reviewing the 93 service manual to see what all was involved and the entire process of removing a radiator could be completed in 6 steps. Granted, I’m not the most mechanically inclined individual in the world, but it definitely didn’t look like 400 bucks worth of labor (and I have a friend who is :> ). Is there something that I’m missing?

Any help would be appreciated I really don’t wanna shell out 900 bucks for a radiator.

 

You can just get a Koyo one for about 350. There are people who are pretty well modified and having no troubles it. It isnt too hard to put in as far as installing it. It really depends on your ability to do work yourself.

Here is an example of the Koyo I was ralking about. http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/koyofd.htm

 

My Koyo radiator worked better than I could have possibly imagined. Ever since I removed the A/C condensor from the front, it has actually been a little difficult to keep the water temps above 80C when cruising.

Replacing the radiator is pretty straightforward. You won't have to remove anything difficult, and the hoses hook up just fine.

 

I'm not a fan of the koyo due to it's fitment issues and upgreded SMIC. But that's just me.

I have a fluidyne with PFS SMIC and can't possibly see how anyone could fit anything thicker than that. Flyidyne is a little more expensive but less of a hassle to install. It's is not a true bolt on either. Minor cutting has to be performed to get the thing in there. The installation is rather easy and you can do this yourself.

 

Well I don't plan to upgrade my SMIC So it sounds like for the price, the koyo radiator seems to be the way to go.

And installation of the koyo isn't terrible difficult? I'm positive I can handle removing a few bolts and hoses I just can't understand where the 390 labor cost comes from...

 

I wouldn't pay it, then again, I install my own mods.

 

Mine was a direct bolt on.

 

Did they recomend AWR because you have an auto? if, so that's the going price and maybe $50 cheaper. Most likely the plastic tank broke. That itself is actually repairable by a radiator shop (had it done on CRX) but being our cars are so fragile to overheating, overkill on the radiator can be a good thing. You will want to replace at minimun the two turbo hoses and inspect the rest.

 

Check these out:
http://www.radiatorworld.com/radiato...no=15107&cat=1

 

Nope, it's a manual

 

This is a LITTLE more involved that "just a few bolts." Granted, you could probably do it yourself pretty easily, but you'll need to get the car up in the air on jackstands and review the factory shop manual carefully before replacing. I'm running an aluminum Mazdacomp rad (which AWR makes for them) and the fitment is perfect. If you're planning to run the Koyo, be prepared for some fitment challenges. Many have complained on this site that fitment can be a challenge due to the increased thickness of the unit over stock, but again, with a little work it's very doable by yourself.

 

I also have a Fluidyne which is 50% larger than stock. KOYO is 100% larger. Like other issues, every car seems to be a little different. Some guys will report little or no problems with the larger radiators, while for others it's the mod from hell. Chances are, both the Fluidyne and Koyo will require trimming and adjustments to get them to fit properly. If your not confident in your abilities, your car is stock and you intend to leave it that way, IMHO, go with one of these http://www.radiatorworld.com/radiato...no=15107&cat=1
If you or your friend have a driveway, jack and a couple of stands save yourself $400 bucks and do it yourself. There should be minimal issues on those stock sized all metal replacements. The only other thing you'll probably need is some green coolant and distilled water. Where you live a 40/60 ratio should be fine.

 

its 400 to install because that's what his boat payment is!!! do it yourself, gotta learn some way!!!

 

You can buy an outstanding replacement radiator for about $170 and put it in yourself in about 2 hours....tops.

 

$400 to install? I thought my friend paid $550 for his auto version "installed"?

Well like I said, you could have a raditor shop replace just the plastic water tank on it for maybe $250. You can also find a OEM style aftermarket replacement for cheap (best to look for copper core). If you are going to pay to have it installed, the dealer will do AWR or Fluidyne, they won't do Koyo. DOn't forget to inspect and change bad hoses (especially turbo ones).

 

and yeah $400 bucks is insane... Once you try it you will see that job is not worth $400 bucks.

Maybe bacause you are 100% stock?

I had to trim this plastic piece that sits next to the headlight right behind the bumper. Only then my PFS SMIC fit correctly.

 

Even when my car was "stock", my PWR (supposedly a Fluidyne clone) required some work on the upper mounts in order to fit.

 

I just changed mine to the $170 radiator from radiatorworld this last summer. It was my first time changing the radiator. I took out the intercooler, the battery, and the fans. That was it, the radiator was right there. I put the new one in and bleed the system, and everything works very good til now, with no temp rising at all. It was pretty easy and you can do it reasonably fast even if you never done it before.

 

If you are not mechanically inclined, it will not be a simple 2 hour job. If you decide to do it yourself, follow the Factory Service Manual, and remove it from the bottom. You won't have any issues with the AC this way.

If you are going to stay stock, you really don't need a huge radiator. Get one that fits .....not a Koyo!!!

 

How do you get around the ac "radiator" and power steering cooling lines if you do it from the bottom?

 

Carefully. Once the condensor and brackets holding the lines are unbolted (the lines are NOT disconnected), there was enough flex in everything to hold them out of the way. They weren't any big problem, just be careful not to kink them.

 

strange, my pwr fits like a glove. no modification required.

 

2 years ago i had a radiator and AST go bad at the same time. The STOCK radiator from mazda was over 500 dollars. I had my lacal RX-7 shop install a Fluidyne radiator and a Pettit racing AST and paid just over $600 for all with install. The shop was RotorSports Racing in Kannapolis NC. Hope this helps

 

Get one from Autozone for like 200 bucks and put it in yourself. It was gravy!

 

I've read a few posts on the fitment for radiators from radiator world. Most seem to pertain to either the low-end (brass/copper) or the higher-end aluminum version (which someone said is larger than the koyo). I'd like to go all aluminum if possible but without serious fitment issues

Has anyone heard anything positive/negative about the medium aluminum version? ($207).