which rad?
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Full Member
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: canada
which rad?
Looking at upgrading my rad, can't decide between koyo or fluidyne, they both seem to be an improvement over stock, leaning towords the koyo (cheaper by 100 bucks) anyone have any suggestions? or own either of these? Thanx
Rotary Freak
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,887
Likes: 1
From: Carmel, NY
i got a Koyo and if you have relocated your rad then it wouldnt matter too much. If you still have it mounted in the stock location i think fluidine might be a better fit cause its slightly thiner than the koyo.
Either will be an improvement over stock no doubt. Theyre both nice quality pieces!
Either will be an improvement over stock no doubt. Theyre both nice quality pieces!
I got a Koyo radiator which should be installed sometime this week hopefully with good assistance from a buddy whose had experience doing one before. It will be mounted like the stock so there will be modifying most likely. 
I mounted my koyo in the stock position (with the rubber mounts) and had very little trouble. Things are a little tighter in that area and I had to kind of force in the IC duct, but the only modification I had to make was to mount the battery slightly higher/tilted so it would clear the fans. Overall I think it was well worth saving $100.
EDIT - I did not have to drill any holes to mount it properly, just swapped the two upper mounting brackets.
EDIT - I did not have to drill any holes to mount it properly, just swapped the two upper mounting brackets.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=fluidyne
Generally speaking, I think there have been fewer reports of fitment issues with the Fluidyne/PWR than with the Koyo. Mostly because Koyo is 100% larger than stock and Fluidyne/PWR is only 50% larger. Neither is necessarily trouble free.
Regardless, this is a very worthwhile mod. Search in this section under "titles only" using "koyo" and "Fluidyne" and you'll have reading for the next month.
Generally speaking, I think there have been fewer reports of fitment issues with the Fluidyne/PWR than with the Koyo. Mostly because Koyo is 100% larger than stock and Fluidyne/PWR is only 50% larger. Neither is necessarily trouble free.
Regardless, this is a very worthwhile mod. Search in this section under "titles only" using "koyo" and "Fluidyne" and you'll have reading for the next month.
Last edited by Sgtblue; Aug 30, 2005 at 08:41 AM.
I used a Koyo. Took some fabrication to get it in the old mounts needed to be bent a little. This also helped me out.
one thing to remember as well though with an aftermarket radiator is you may have to modify the stock mounting clips a bit. When I dropped my new koyo in, it took me over 3 hours to realise all of my fitment issues were because the stock mounting clips I was using had to be re-drilled closer to the bend of the "L" shaped clip.
Taking out the radiator is easy, but take your time and label everything, putting it back togeather will be a pain in the *** if you don't keep all of the bolts and everything labeled.
Pretty much the way it goes is:
- drain all radiator fluid
- Disconnect the battery
- pull out battery tie down, battery, and battery tray
- pull out intercooler
- disconnect the hoses from the intake box and remove both the top and bottom halves of the airbox.
- unbolt the ac condenser canister from the frame (it is the little cannister lookingthing that is bolted to the front of the driver's side, in front of where the battery would be)
-CAREFULLY pull the cannister out from the intke duct of the car (easiest w ay I found was to rotate the duct around the cannister and then halfway pull the duct down while pulling the cannister up). be extremely careful not to break the metal tubing connected to the cannister, if you break that you'll loose all functionality of the ac and the only way to fix it I know of is to pull out the entire section of metal tubing and re-pressurize the entire system.
- after cannister and duct are separated, you should have a clear view of the radiator.
- disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses (note, be careful when removing these as there will be spilage of rdiator fluid and you don't want to get that crap all over the place, especially not on the exterior body paint. if you get any on the body, wipe it off asap).
- disconnect the fans motor wires
- the radiator is connected to the car by the 2 mounting clips located at the sides of the rad at the top. unbolt these and you're ready to pull the radiator and fans out. tilt the radiator and the fans up and simply pull it out (before you do this check to make sure everything is disconnected first!!!!)
- once you pull the radiator and fans out, the fans/shroud are connected via three bolts at the top of the radiator.
I have to admit, when I pulled out the stock radiator and took a good look at it, I wanted to slap the mazda designer that came up with that piece of garbage. I replaced with a core that was twice as thick and haven't had temps over 190F since (granted I turn the fans on at 180 when I'm stuck in traffic).
Also, one trick I learnt as well. if stuck in traffic and can't get out of it, turn on the dash lights (no need to turn on the headlights, just the dash lights), and turn the ac on to full blast, that'll keep the fans frequently running on high when sitting at idle.
if you want a detailed writup on replacing the the rad, go to www.rx7guru.com, there is a full write up on replacing the rad there.
Taking out the radiator is easy, but take your time and label everything, putting it back togeather will be a pain in the *** if you don't keep all of the bolts and everything labeled.
Pretty much the way it goes is:
- drain all radiator fluid
- Disconnect the battery
- pull out battery tie down, battery, and battery tray
- pull out intercooler
- disconnect the hoses from the intake box and remove both the top and bottom halves of the airbox.
- unbolt the ac condenser canister from the frame (it is the little cannister lookingthing that is bolted to the front of the driver's side, in front of where the battery would be)
-CAREFULLY pull the cannister out from the intke duct of the car (easiest w ay I found was to rotate the duct around the cannister and then halfway pull the duct down while pulling the cannister up). be extremely careful not to break the metal tubing connected to the cannister, if you break that you'll loose all functionality of the ac and the only way to fix it I know of is to pull out the entire section of metal tubing and re-pressurize the entire system.
- after cannister and duct are separated, you should have a clear view of the radiator.
- disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses (note, be careful when removing these as there will be spilage of rdiator fluid and you don't want to get that crap all over the place, especially not on the exterior body paint. if you get any on the body, wipe it off asap).
- disconnect the fans motor wires
- the radiator is connected to the car by the 2 mounting clips located at the sides of the rad at the top. unbolt these and you're ready to pull the radiator and fans out. tilt the radiator and the fans up and simply pull it out (before you do this check to make sure everything is disconnected first!!!!)
- once you pull the radiator and fans out, the fans/shroud are connected via three bolts at the top of the radiator.
I have to admit, when I pulled out the stock radiator and took a good look at it, I wanted to slap the mazda designer that came up with that piece of garbage. I replaced with a core that was twice as thick and haven't had temps over 190F since (granted I turn the fans on at 180 when I'm stuck in traffic).
Also, one trick I learnt as well. if stuck in traffic and can't get out of it, turn on the dash lights (no need to turn on the headlights, just the dash lights), and turn the ac on to full blast, that'll keep the fans frequently running on high when sitting at idle.
if you want a detailed writup on replacing the the rad, go to www.rx7guru.com, there is a full write up on replacing the rad there.
