RaceLogic FD Owners...
06-27-04, 02:34 PM
#1
Rotary Poseur
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RaceLogic FD Owners...
Has anyone ever installed one yet? Especially those of us who were in on the group buy. Was chatting with a friend and we're thinking we wasted some $$$ since no one ever mentions anything about it.
06-27-04, 08:47 PM
#3
Re: RaceLogic FD Owners...
Originally posted by HedgeHog
Has anyone ever installed one yet? Especially those of us who were in on the group buy. Was chatting with a friend and we're thinking we wasted some $$$ since no one ever mentions anything about it.
Has anyone ever installed one yet? Especially those of us who were in on the group buy. Was chatting with a friend and we're thinking we wasted some $$$ since no one ever mentions anything about it.
Seriously though. I will buy it if you want to sell it.
06-28-04, 12:28 AM
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Re: RaceLogic FD Owners...
Originally posted by HedgeHog
... and we're thinking we wasted some $$$ since no one ever mentions anything about it.
... and we're thinking we wasted some $$$ since no one ever mentions anything about it.
06-28-04, 01:12 AM
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It's weird, friends with Supras that bought the kit talk about it (installation + reviews) but none of the FD folks seem to say anything. If it's as good as what my supra friend claims it to be, then i'm pumped to get it installed. But the silence is making me apprehensive...as if no one can figure out how to install nor tune the sucker. 
Where's Poweraxel...i think he got one?
Where's Poweraxel...i think he got one?
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06-28-04, 02:26 PM
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I bought it and installed it on my FD. For some reason, I have never taken it lower than the 20% setting. It was VERY easy to setup, kida a pain to install, but Racelogic included perfect length wires to run to the ABS control module, so the cutting/splicing/pulling wires headache was minimal.
Performance review? Well...
The Racelogic uses a bizarre type of fuel cut, where it cuts injector pulsewidth by more than 50%, basically eliminating the concern that the motor will lean out to detonation by way of reducing fuel so significantly that it hardly combusts, if at all. The full throttle shift option softly reduces the RPM to the preset secondary rev limiter. Traction control issues are a thing of the past with this sucker! I can do slight powerslides, short burnouts, but anything over 20% wheelspin, and the motor cuts and the car squats down and moves! I noticed that when shifting now I no longer hear the BOV 'til I release the throttle after the 1-2-3-4. The car feels faster and more stable, more reliable, ad is defiently more entertaining to drive! Best $850 ever spent. Am I worried about it popping the motor? Nope! Even when I've fucked up and dropped the clutch off first, the tires chirp, the car grunts, and then screams away like it's on M/T Streets!
Performance review? Well...
The Racelogic uses a bizarre type of fuel cut, where it cuts injector pulsewidth by more than 50%, basically eliminating the concern that the motor will lean out to detonation by way of reducing fuel so significantly that it hardly combusts, if at all. The full throttle shift option softly reduces the RPM to the preset secondary rev limiter. Traction control issues are a thing of the past with this sucker! I can do slight powerslides, short burnouts, but anything over 20% wheelspin, and the motor cuts and the car squats down and moves! I noticed that when shifting now I no longer hear the BOV 'til I release the throttle after the 1-2-3-4. The car feels faster and more stable, more reliable, ad is defiently more entertaining to drive! Best $850 ever spent. Am I worried about it popping the motor? Nope! Even when I've fucked up and dropped the clutch off first, the tires chirp, the car grunts, and then screams away like it's on M/T Streets!
06-28-04, 04:32 PM
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Ok, that makes more sense. 
I was envisioning a more subtle leaning into detonation territory (which, ironically may make more power). 
Man, a video of this sure would kick a$s...
(The Z3 on their site doesn't count! )
I was envisioning a more subtle leaning into detonation territory (which, ironically may make more power). Man, a video of this sure would kick a$s...
(The Z3 on their site doesn't count! )
06-28-04, 11:10 PM
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Originally posted by sszablya
I bought it and installed it on my FD. For some reason, I have never taken it lower than the 20% setting. It was VERY easy to setup, kida a pain to install, but Racelogic included perfect length wires to run to the ABS control module, so the cutting/splicing/pulling wires headache was minimal.
Performance review? Well...
The Racelogic uses a bizarre type of fuel cut, where it cuts injector pulsewidth by more than 50%, basically eliminating the concern that the motor will lean out to detonation by way of reducing fuel so significantly that it hardly combusts, if at all. The full throttle shift option softly reduces the RPM to the preset secondary rev limiter. Traction control issues are a thing of the past with this sucker! I can do slight powerslides, short burnouts, but anything over 20% wheelspin, and the motor cuts and the car squats down and moves! I noticed that when shifting now I no longer hear the BOV 'til I release the throttle after the 1-2-3-4. The car feels faster and more stable, more reliable, ad is defiently more entertaining to drive! Best $850 ever spent. Am I worried about it popping the motor? Nope! Even when I've fucked up and dropped the clutch off first, the tires chirp, the car grunts, and then screams away like it's on M/T Streets!
I bought it and installed it on my FD. For some reason, I have never taken it lower than the 20% setting. It was VERY easy to setup, kida a pain to install, but Racelogic included perfect length wires to run to the ABS control module, so the cutting/splicing/pulling wires headache was minimal.
Performance review? Well...
The Racelogic uses a bizarre type of fuel cut, where it cuts injector pulsewidth by more than 50%, basically eliminating the concern that the motor will lean out to detonation by way of reducing fuel so significantly that it hardly combusts, if at all. The full throttle shift option softly reduces the RPM to the preset secondary rev limiter. Traction control issues are a thing of the past with this sucker! I can do slight powerslides, short burnouts, but anything over 20% wheelspin, and the motor cuts and the car squats down and moves! I noticed that when shifting now I no longer hear the BOV 'til I release the throttle after the 1-2-3-4. The car feels faster and more stable, more reliable, ad is defiently more entertaining to drive! Best $850 ever spent. Am I worried about it popping the motor? Nope! Even when I've fucked up and dropped the clutch off first, the tires chirp, the car grunts, and then screams away like it's on M/T Streets!
joel
06-29-04, 04:11 AM
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I just bought one but I don't have it installed yet.
sszablya - how did you hook up the clutch engage/disengage switch for your full throttle shifting and what kind of switch did you use for it?
bigmack000 - you can turn it off as well as 5, 10, 15, and 20% slip settings by turning a small **** on the controller.
sszablya - how did you hook up the clutch engage/disengage switch for your full throttle shifting and what kind of switch did you use for it?
bigmack000 - you can turn it off as well as 5, 10, 15, and 20% slip settings by turning a small **** on the controller.
06-29-04, 07:53 AM
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If I remember correctly the Full throttle shift looks for a GND when the clutch is depressed - chances are you already have the correct switch on your clutch.
BTW - the RLTCS does not reduce inj pulse width - it either provide 100% of the needed pulse width - or 0%. It will alternate cylinders until traction is found. Running either all or none of the fuel needed is the only way to really be safe.
Setup is a snap - pop in the calibration plug and roll straight then turn the car so it can learn. It takes about 10 seconds. The default settings are good - you can fine tune it with a laptop too.
BTW - the RLTCS does not reduce inj pulse width - it either provide 100% of the needed pulse width - or 0%. It will alternate cylinders until traction is found. Running either all or none of the fuel needed is the only way to really be safe.
Setup is a snap - pop in the calibration plug and roll straight then turn the car so it can learn. It takes about 10 seconds. The default settings are good - you can fine tune it with a laptop too.
06-29-04, 05:19 PM
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Originally posted by Jim Swantko
If I remember correctly the Full throttle shift looks for a GND when the clutch is depressed - chances are you already have the correct switch on your clutch.
BTW - the RLTCS does not reduce inj pulse width - it either provide 100% of the needed pulse width - or 0%. It will alternate cylinders until traction is found. Running either all or none of the fuel needed is the only way to really be safe.
Setup is a snap - pop in the calibration plug and roll straight then turn the car so it can learn. It takes about 10 seconds. The default settings are good - you can fine tune it with a laptop too.
If I remember correctly the Full throttle shift looks for a GND when the clutch is depressed - chances are you already have the correct switch on your clutch.
BTW - the RLTCS does not reduce inj pulse width - it either provide 100% of the needed pulse width - or 0%. It will alternate cylinders until traction is found. Running either all or none of the fuel needed is the only way to really be safe.
Setup is a snap - pop in the calibration plug and roll straight then turn the car so it can learn. It takes about 10 seconds. The default settings are good - you can fine tune it with a laptop too.
06-29-04, 06:26 PM
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Originally posted by Jim Swantko
BTW - the RLTCS does not reduce inj pulse width - it either provide 100% of the needed pulse width - or 0%. It will alternate cylinders until traction is found. Running either all or none of the fuel needed is the only way to really be safe.
BTW - the RLTCS does not reduce inj pulse width - it either provide 100% of the needed pulse width - or 0%. It will alternate cylinders until traction is found. Running either all or none of the fuel needed is the only way to really be safe.
I take it, it deals with our primary/secondary setup OK?
06-29-04, 06:34 PM
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06-29-04, 06:49 PM
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Linked from wylie's link:
http://www.racelogic.co.uk/techtrac.htm
We'll I'll be damned. Thanks wylie. I only looked at the install instructions and made assumptions. 
http://www.racelogic.co.uk/techtrac.htm
We'll I'll be damned.
Thanks wylie. I only looked at the install instructions and made assumptions.
06-29-04, 07:19 PM
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hmm i liek hwo it can be adjusted. think i migth look into gettign this if my fd breaks loose all the tiem when its done good info in this thread thanks guys
joel
good info in this thread thanks guys joel
06-29-04, 08:32 PM
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Originally posted by Red-Rx7
Has anyone tried this with a high-hp car? I break the tires loose every time I apply 30% or more throttle, under 100 mph. I have to play the peddle game, and I know I am not being as fast as I could be. But I am affraid with something that spins all the time, it would be.. ??
Has anyone tried this with a high-hp car? I break the tires loose every time I apply 30% or more throttle, under 100 mph. I have to play the peddle game, and I know I am not being as fast as I could be. But I am affraid with something that spins all the time, it would be.. ??
You simply nail the throttle and it accelerates as fast as the traction will allow. It's a bit un-nerving to hear the car missing - but that's what it's supposed to do. It sort of sound like a car on a 2-step.
The software allows you to fine to how aggressive the trac control comes on too - so its very flexible. But I've been happy with it just as it was out of the box. It keeps you from getting sideways and possible off the road.
06-30-04, 02:46 PM
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Originally posted by POM HB
Jim,
What slip percentage are you using?
Jim,
What slip percentage are you using?
I was surprised by just how much wheelspin 30% is - but that seems to be the best setting for my car.
Play around with it - it's very cool!
06-30-04, 03:06 PM
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So how would it work if you use direct port NOS? Would it missfire properly or would the NOS still ignite causing a lean condition? I only ask because I'm installing that too.