Quick and Simple Oil Question
07-05-04, 12:01 PM
#1
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Quick and Simple Oil Question
Im coming close to oil change time again. I wanted to swtich to synthetic. Now I "heard" that I cant do the switch right away that I should do a 50/50 mix of syn and dyno then the next chance do full syn. Is this what I do? Or just a completely chance with synthetic?
07-05-04, 12:05 PM
#2
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No need to go 50/50 first.
Fact is you can't drain all the oil out anyway as you only drain what's in the pan. The oil lines and coolers stay full so after you drain the pan and add synthetic there's going to be old leftover oil in there anyhow. It will take a couple oil changes to get all the old oil out unless you're willing to disassemble the car (and that's pointless).
Fact is you can't drain all the oil out anyway as you only drain what's in the pan. The oil lines and coolers stay full so after you drain the pan and add synthetic there's going to be old leftover oil in there anyhow. It will take a couple oil changes to get all the old oil out unless you're willing to disassemble the car (and that's pointless).
07-05-04, 12:10 PM
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I wouldn't worry about it. Redline synth says it's compatible with standard oils (this is what I use). I would change the oil filter at the time of the switch though.
07-06-04, 02:51 AM
#5
Use Mobil 1 - 15W50, I used it for a while, I felt smoother idling, and better engine response. Its expensive, but my mechanic told me to stick with good old dino oils (I trust him). Im using Valvoline VR1 20W50. I still dont have any problems, and the car runs exactly the same.
ALI
ALI
07-06-04, 05:23 AM
#6
Call me gramps!
Originally posted by oneflytrini
Use Mobil 1 - 15W50, I used it for a while, I felt smoother idling, and better engine response. Its expensive, but my mechanic told me to stick with good old dino oils (I trust him). Im using Valvoline VR1 20W50. I still dont have any problems, and the car runs exactly the same.
ALI
Use Mobil 1 - 15W50, I used it for a while, I felt smoother idling, and better engine response. Its expensive, but my mechanic told me to stick with good old dino oils (I trust him). Im using Valvoline VR1 20W50. I still dont have any problems, and the car runs exactly the same.
ALI
07-06-04, 08:08 AM
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally posted by WaLieN
I agree about using dino oils, especially since most of us change our oil so often. I just buy a 5 quart jug of Valvoline 10W30 for ~$8, and change my oil/filter every 2k miles. When was the last time you heard of a FD blowing a seal due to viscosity breakdown or overheating and blowing an o-ring due to the fact that dino oils have a marginally lower resistance to heat? The power that you *may* gain from having synthetics is negligible at most, and can be easily swayed with changes in elevation and ambient temperature. Chances are if you are going to blow your motor, it won't be due to oil... it will either be a coolant problem or detonation.
I agree about using dino oils, especially since most of us change our oil so often. I just buy a 5 quart jug of Valvoline 10W30 for ~$8, and change my oil/filter every 2k miles. When was the last time you heard of a FD blowing a seal due to viscosity breakdown or overheating and blowing an o-ring due to the fact that dino oils have a marginally lower resistance to heat? The power that you *may* gain from having synthetics is negligible at most, and can be easily swayed with changes in elevation and ambient temperature. Chances are if you are going to blow your motor, it won't be due to oil... it will either be a coolant problem or detonation.
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07-06-04, 01:22 PM
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Originally posted by WaLieN
I agree about using dino oils, especially since most of us change our oil so often. I just buy a 5 quart jug of Valvoline 10W30 for ~$8, and change my oil/filter every 2k miles. When was the last time you heard of a FD blowing a seal due to viscosity breakdown or overheating and blowing an o-ring due to the fact that dino oils have a marginally lower resistance to heat? The power that you *may* gain from having synthetics is negligible at most, and can be easily swayed with changes in elevation and ambient temperature. Chances are if you are going to blow your motor, it won't be due to oil... it will either be a coolant problem or detonation.
I agree about using dino oils, especially since most of us change our oil so often. I just buy a 5 quart jug of Valvoline 10W30 for ~$8, and change my oil/filter every 2k miles. When was the last time you heard of a FD blowing a seal due to viscosity breakdown or overheating and blowing an o-ring due to the fact that dino oils have a marginally lower resistance to heat? The power that you *may* gain from having synthetics is negligible at most, and can be easily swayed with changes in elevation and ambient temperature. Chances are if you are going to blow your motor, it won't be due to oil... it will either be a coolant problem or detonation.
you know the old saying, "if only I knew then what I knew now"
I blew my motor, overheated do to lack of coolant.. popped something, most likely my radiator.
mechanic(ivan of sunnyvale) told me I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU GET A NEW RADIATOR
i didnt want to put anymore money into the car.. few weeks later. BAM no more motor
simple thing as a cooling system,
man.. on a lightly modded FD,
imo people should put a HUGE ammount of effort into making sure the cooling system is at 200%.
not just working right.. but out performing oem specs!!!!!!!!!!!!!
oh and if your 19.. listen to ur ******* mechanic
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