bajaman

Is the white thing I have outlined a check valve? I am doing the rat's nest hose replacement using VITON hoses, and have been checking check valves as I go, and if this one is supposed to be one, it is bad because air flows both ways.

danny hahn

I'm not familiar with a check valve that looks like that so, I would guess it's aftermarket.

Now the question I have is what does that line go to or come from so that we can verify whether it's a one way or two way check valve (at certain pressure/vacuum), from your placement I would assume it goes to the pressure chamber tank? If so, it's one way.

You are probably familiar with Dale Clark's check valves also available at usplastics.com.

They move a little quicker than the stock ones.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

That's the "automatic transmission only" valve.

While I've never seen one in person as I only have experience with manuals, the normal diagram does list it as a check valve:

http://www.fd3s.net/vacuum_hose_diagram.jpg

It comes from the auto vacuum chamber, so I would assume it's a standard one-way check valve.

bajaman

Thanks guys. After posting this I went out and looked at the big-*** vacuum line routing diagram I had downloaded and printed off in 11" X17" format and actually saw this 'automatic tranny only' check valve on the sheet. So I replaced it with one of the VITON/KYNAR check valves I bought recently.

Thanks again for the replies.

danny hahn

what size viton tubing did you pick? I used 1/8" id when I did mine back in 2000, fingers hurt for a couple of days thereafter. lubing and expanding the ends made it go much easier.

Hoses are still supple.

bajaman

Yeah, my fingers hurt like hell right now, but this stuff is awesome. Expensive as hell, but awesome! I bought the High Temp Silicone kit, which comes with 30' of 3.5mm, 12' of 4.0mm, 12' of 6.0mm, and 4' of 8.0mm.

The odd thing is, I am 75% done right now with my hose job and I have only used about 8 feet of the 3.5mm and 2 feet of the 4.0mm, so I am going to have a helluva lot of that size left over. I figure once I am done I'll sell the rest. I'd always heard they gave you about twice as much as really needed, especially if you don't replace the windshield washer lines.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Two tips for using the viton:
1) don't use zip-ties. if the nipple is clean, they will have plenty of holding power.
2) give them a twist to get them loose, and don't use a pliers with a surface that could scratch the hose. The only weakness I've found is that sharply-knurled pliers will rough the surface and those fine cuts will make it weak. I have a set of cheap long needle-nose pliers that I ground off all the knurling and sharp edges.

Baja, are you testing your solenoids? I strongly recommend it.

Dave

bajaman

I want to test them, but am terrified to even attempt to remove the electrical connectors from them. Those things are SO baked, and I broke several other connectors when I removed them from sensors like the water temp sender and a couple of others, and those were in spots that were subjected to less heat. So....I wonder if there is a way to test them without removing the connectors? I know I can check continuity using the sharp probes on my multi-tester, but as far as actually energizing the solenoid with the connectors still on....that one currently has me stumped.
Any suggestions?

vtecgsr95

You said your doing a Viton hose replacement.......but then it says you purchased the high temp silicone kit? Which are you actually using and where did you get it? I purchased a silicone kit off ebay for like 50 bucks.....looks ok, but then I read the article about silicone coming apart under extreme heat and exposure to engine oil and now want viton hose!! I am trying to figure out where to get the viton hose, or if your just using silicone I will go ahead and use the kit I have! The funny thing is that I talked to Pettit racing and they said silicone hose is fine......but why was there that article about silicone not being much better than the OE neoprene hose?? I am confused and dont wanna do this twice!! Sorry, not trying to jack your thread, but figure if everyone else is using silicone without problems, Ill do the same!!

Thanks!
frank

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

High Temp Silicone is the name of a user/company here who sells vacuum hose kits:

https://www.rx7club.com/members/high-temp-silicone-41046/

He has a Viton kit for the FD.

bajaman

As Mahjik confirmed, High Temp Silicone sells VITON hose in various diameters by the foot, or you can buy their 'RX-7 Kit', which comes with the sizes and lengths I indicated earlier.
They also sell silicone hoses too, of course....likely the best around.
As for my personal preference and why I went with $300 worth of VITON instead of silicone, it is mainly due to personal experience with silicone hoses in other applications, specifically in R/C applications where I used high-nitromethane content fuels. Silicone hoses held up FAR better than standard plastic, but would still soften, swell, and ultimately crack and leak.
And there was an extensive test done by someone that was well documented where they actually took various hoses made from EDPM, silicone, and VITON and subjected them to hot oil and other severe environmental factors and the VITON emerged the winner. After reading that article which basically confirmed my own experiences with silicone, I decided to go with VITON.

Obviously many, many other owners have succesfully used silicone and are perfectly happy with it, as are many who simply use the stock hoses. VITON's high price is a factor in the cost-to-benefit ratio, but when one considers it is likely the last hoses you'll ever have to buy, combined with how easy it is to get to stay on without the use of any clamps or zip-ties, AND the fact that near-factory style bends can be done with it without it crimping.....it makes it worth looking at a second time.

Here is the link:
http://www.hightempsilicone.com/product/RX7VITONKIT

vtecgsr95

THANKS!! I was upset about reading that article AFTER I bought my silicone kit! But I am sure I can sell it to local kid with a honda civic or something!! Thanks again for the info guys!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

It looks like you've pulled the whole harness.

The common ground (or power?) for the solenoids is the Black white stripe wire in harness connector X-05. Each solenoid connects to 4P-4V on the big connector at the ECU. Reference the wiring diagram page Z-32 to Z-28.

I find that a straightened paper clip works to fit into the connector and give me something to clip an alligator onto.

IMO, the important thing is to test each solenoid as Dave Disney figured:

- Connect a tank to the output (upward facing) nipple.
- Pump up the solenoid with pressure or vacuum at the 'on' side (opposite the electrical connector) to look for leaks.
- Apply 12v and open the solenoid. Pump until you have put 10psi in the tank and verify it holds the pressure indefinitely.
- Turn off the solenoid. A good solenoid will drain in about a second with a uniform hiss. A marginal solenoid will not open immediately and then let the air out. A bad solenoid will simply stick since the plunger spring cannot overcome the load of the 10psi.
- Among the bad ones, repeat the test with vacuum - if they work ok under vacuum, I can still use them in the emissions locations (A, B, C, D, G)

I repeat this test with up to 15psi - usually there is a pressure where each solenoid gets marginal. My goal is to find solenoids that open under 15psi, and use only those in the turbo-specific locations (E, F, H).

I also do these tests with the solenoids hot, but generally they perform the same hot or cold in this test. So really the 'hot' test that matters is the coil resistance/continuity.

If you find a bad solenoid you'll have to replace it, which may break the connector. I have no idea if your engine budget it blown, but a new harness may be in order. I *think* the auto and manual ecu harnesses are now the same part number, so it should all be compatible regardless.

Dave

clburell

Those connectors are vertually indestructible. You should be safe removing them but if you don't want to try using a couple long nail/screws and your 9 volt battery. I would strongly recommend testing them while you are there otherwise you might end up pulling it all out again. Not Fun.

bajaman

Dave,

So....it is simply not good enough to just put power to them and listen to see if the solenoid is working, evidently? That had been my original intention, though I wasn't sure if there was a fixed 'positive' or 'negative' terminal.......?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Yep, the old click test will not find leaking solenoids or sticking solenoids. In most locations, it's not a big deal, but in the turbo control solenoid it's a major problem.

Removing the solenoid connectors isn't too bad if you insert a thin flat screwdriver between the solenoid and connector, then twist the screwdriver to push off the connector while squeezing the latch. The metal contacts like to grip hard, and if you're only pulling on the connector it can get ugly.

Dave

Glassman

iTrader: (1)

Anyone have their PH #? Their website is offline

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

No longer in business as far as I know.

Glassman

iTrader: (1)

Ok, does anyone else offer a viton hose kit for the FD?
Thanks