a quick ? about buying an FD... (yes i searched)
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 6
From: San Francisco, CA
a quick ? about buying an FD... (yes i searched)
alright, well after i sell my Si, ill have just about $15,000 to spend on my FD 
(yipee! haha) ANYWAY... i've been searching for FDs for a while now, and i was just wondering...
i have seen plenty of decent FDs out there for 15k or less, but most of them have 70k-100k miles on them and will probably need a new motor soon... so instead of buying one of those, would it be cheaper/smarter to just buy an FD with good paint & interior and a blown motor and replace it with a brand new one? or should i just buy a fully functional FD right now? i read in here that the FD motor is only ~$2200... and i know an install including the motor would probably cost ~$4500 depending on the shop, but i was just looking for advice on which route i should take...
thanks in advance, i appreciate any help i can get... (please dont flame for the ? i did try and search, but coudlnt find the answer i was looking for, sorry
)
(yipee! haha) ANYWAY... i've been searching for FDs for a while now, and i was just wondering...i have seen plenty of decent FDs out there for 15k or less, but most of them have 70k-100k miles on them and will probably need a new motor soon... so instead of buying one of those, would it be cheaper/smarter to just buy an FD with good paint & interior and a blown motor and replace it with a brand new one? or should i just buy a fully functional FD right now? i read in here that the FD motor is only ~$2200... and i know an install including the motor would probably cost ~$4500 depending on the shop, but i was just looking for advice on which route i should take...
thanks in advance, i appreciate any help i can get... (please dont flame for the ? i did try and search, but coudlnt find the answer i was looking for, sorry
)
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 6
From: San Francisco, CA
Originally posted by RX7boy
why not buy one that just had a new one put in it?
why not buy one that just had a new one put in it?
- but yes, i would also consider that if the price was right...
thats not paint....
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,231
Likes: 2
From: Manassas, VA
Just shop around you might be able to find something...
94 Rx-7 Pettit racing car
sean vest, pekin, IL [ email: redlineunlimited@hotmail.com ]
I have a 94 Rx-7 touring pakage with R1 air damm and rear wing,with 97000 on the OD 2500 miles on the street ported pettit motor with the upgraded 3 mm seals! here is the list of parts.
1) 2500 on new motor with 3 mm seals streetport and brand new rotor housings
2) complete 3" SS ex. down pipe, mid and catback all from pettit!
3)pettit cold air intakes!
4)pettit underdrive pulley!
5)pettit short throw shifter!
6)pettit light weight flywheel and centerforce clutch
7)HKS-FCON piggy back fuel ecu
8)autometer carbonfiber gages
9)crane fireball ignition
10)optama redtop relocated in the trunk
email for detaled pics asking 15500 my loss your gain . last summer it ran 12.9 at 105mph on 10 psi of boost in 95 degree heat! The guys at pettit said that at 15 psi and there ECU it sould in the 11's
I rest my case
94 Rx-7 Pettit racing car
sean vest, pekin, IL [ email: redlineunlimited@hotmail.com ]
I have a 94 Rx-7 touring pakage with R1 air damm and rear wing,with 97000 on the OD 2500 miles on the street ported pettit motor with the upgraded 3 mm seals! here is the list of parts.
1) 2500 on new motor with 3 mm seals streetport and brand new rotor housings
2) complete 3" SS ex. down pipe, mid and catback all from pettit!
3)pettit cold air intakes!
4)pettit underdrive pulley!
5)pettit short throw shifter!
6)pettit light weight flywheel and centerforce clutch
7)HKS-FCON piggy back fuel ecu
8)autometer carbonfiber gages
9)crane fireball ignition
10)optama redtop relocated in the trunk
email for detaled pics asking 15500 my loss your gain . last summer it ran 12.9 at 105mph on 10 psi of boost in 95 degree heat! The guys at pettit said that at 15 psi and there ECU it sould in the 11's
I rest my case
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 6
From: San Francisco, CA
Originally posted by 7-sins
Just shop around you might be able to find something...
94 Rx-7 Pettit racing car
sean vest, pekin, IL [ email: redlineunlimited@hotmail.com ]
I have a 94 Rx-7 touring pakage with R1 air damm and rear wing,with 97000 on the OD 2500 miles on the street ported pettit motor with the upgraded 3 mm seals! here is the list of parts.
1) 2500 on new motor with 3 mm seals streetport and brand new rotor housings
2) complete 3" SS ex. down pipe, mid and catback all from pettit!
3)pettit cold air intakes!
4)pettit underdrive pulley!
5)pettit short throw shifter!
6)pettit light weight flywheel and centerforce clutch
7)HKS-FCON piggy back fuel ecu
8)autometer carbonfiber gages
9)crane fireball ignition
10)optama redtop relocated in the trunk
email for detaled pics asking 15500 my loss your gain . last summer it ran 12.9 at 105mph on 10 psi of boost in 95 degree heat! The guys at pettit said that at 15 psi and there ECU it sould in the 11's
I rest my case
Just shop around you might be able to find something...
94 Rx-7 Pettit racing car
sean vest, pekin, IL [ email: redlineunlimited@hotmail.com ]
I have a 94 Rx-7 touring pakage with R1 air damm and rear wing,with 97000 on the OD 2500 miles on the street ported pettit motor with the upgraded 3 mm seals! here is the list of parts.
1) 2500 on new motor with 3 mm seals streetport and brand new rotor housings
2) complete 3" SS ex. down pipe, mid and catback all from pettit!
3)pettit cold air intakes!
4)pettit underdrive pulley!
5)pettit short throw shifter!
6)pettit light weight flywheel and centerforce clutch
7)HKS-FCON piggy back fuel ecu
8)autometer carbonfiber gages
9)crane fireball ignition
10)optama redtop relocated in the trunk
email for detaled pics asking 15500 my loss your gain . last summer it ran 12.9 at 105mph on 10 psi of boost in 95 degree heat! The guys at pettit said that at 15 psi and there ECU it sould in the 11's
I rest my case
) but as soon as my civic is gone i will be emailing you just to check thanks...
thats not paint....
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,231
Likes: 2
From: Manassas, VA
Originally posted by gmonsen
if i knew what i know now then, i would buy an excellent body without wheels, tires, shocks, springs, engine, or even working computer... you could find a shell like this for about $4-5,000 or so. maybe less on a good day. then, i'd add all the parts and engine. you'd come out a lot cheaper. used stock wheels aren;t worth a thing. used stock shocks and springs same way. so, if you buy a good shell for $4,000, you'd:
1 repaint in and out for $4-8,000
2 put in a good ported reman motor for $4500
3 put on 4 nice fiske (or whatever) wheels for about $2-2,500
4 tires for $600-800
5 coilovers and springs (medium priced) for $1,600
6 haltech (or other) computer for $1-1,500
7 exhaust for $1000
so, your total would basically run $18,700-21,900 and you'd have a great car. (obviously, this doesn;t include little stuff, like, steering wheels, etcx. its the vast basics.) doing it any other way, you'll still do many of the mods and will end up spending more.
-gordon
if i knew what i know now then, i would buy an excellent body without wheels, tires, shocks, springs, engine, or even working computer... you could find a shell like this for about $4-5,000 or so. maybe less on a good day. then, i'd add all the parts and engine. you'd come out a lot cheaper. used stock wheels aren;t worth a thing. used stock shocks and springs same way. so, if you buy a good shell for $4,000, you'd:
1 repaint in and out for $4-8,000
2 put in a good ported reman motor for $4500
3 put on 4 nice fiske (or whatever) wheels for about $2-2,500
4 tires for $600-800
5 coilovers and springs (medium priced) for $1,600
6 haltech (or other) computer for $1-1,500
7 exhaust for $1000
so, your total would basically run $18,700-21,900 and you'd have a great car. (obviously, this doesn;t include little stuff, like, steering wheels, etcx. its the vast basics.) doing it any other way, you'll still do many of the mods and will end up spending more.
-gordon
BTW - That wasn't my car, just an add I ran across on thepartstrader.com
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Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 4
From: Huntington Beach, CA, USA
It all depends on what you want out of the car. If you're going to mod it extensively, just get something really cheap and junked out and rebuild it all, or buy something with lots of mods on it already. That is the most cost effective way since no one ever gets all their money back on mods, so might as well let someone else buy them for you. Or in the case of building up, why pay for stock parts you don't need? They cost a fortune. However if you want a car you can just jump in and drive and not have to think about too much, go for a low mileage example without many (or any) mods. This will be the most reliable and you won't have to figure out all the quirks of the mods already on the car, or worry about worn out components that can be very expensive (you don't even want to know how expensive factory parts are, even miniscule stuff costs hundreds, and anything bigger than your fist will probably cost at least 1000, its sad...).
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