So I started my rx7 after a rebuild and a few things happened, there was a lot of white smoke in the exhaust which is normal and I know it comes out of the engine bay too, but this was a lot. It wasn't sweet smelling or anything, seemed like just all the stuff burning off, if that sounds right...

I didn't get a chance to run it long enough to see if it would go away, because I had a oil leak which I traced back to the oil pressure switch not being torqued down.

But the real thing that I am unsure of is a weird buzzing sound that I heard once I shut it off. It was coming from directly under the UIM, and continued to make noise in the ignition ON position. And went away when the car was completely off. My guess is it might have been the sound of the fuel in the line still pumping, although the noise did sound electrical, it just seemed way too loud for that. I have never heard anything like it in my life.

Any suggestions on the smoke in the engine bay, or the noise are greatly appreciated.

 

Check the ISC on the UIM. Try unplugging it and see if the buzzing goes away.

 

Ill try that out when I get it ready to start up again and post back. appreciate the advise Mahjik.

 

And as a side note, I converted to non-sequential and installed all the block off plates BUT the ISC so that does sound promising because thats the location of the noise for sure...

 

So you were totally right, unplugged the ISC and the noise went away, good call man... would you happened to know why its making the noise, and what I should do, or maybe I should just remove it altogether.

Also the smoke went away as I thought it would, but the car wont stay on for more than a few seconds. It cant hold an idle, and giving it throttle doesnt help. I have an video that ill upload tomorrow to give an idea...

Seems like its not getting enough fuel, because it sputters. I put in a new supra pump that makes no noise when you prime the system, I thought I messed something up there at first, but it does turn over.

 

My ISC makes that noise, too.

 

it's just opening and closing rapidly to allow air in when you start the car. Don't worry about it, even the 2nd gens do this. Plug the ISC back in.



Ground the fuel pump diagnostic connector. That should make the pump run continuously with the key on. Start the car and see if it still cuts off.

 

Try cleaning it and then lubricating it.

You might re-check your spark plugs. It's not uncommon for a new rebuild to foul the plugs trying to burn off all the assembly lube. Also, if you have a fuel pressure gauge (or pick up a cheap one just for diagnosis), you might make sure your fuel pressure is holding.

 

awesome guys ill try some of the suggestions, in the mean time heres the video I took last night

and to clarify my mods are street port, full non-sequential and I removed my fpr solenoid if that matters any, intake, down pipe, catback, new supra pump, 1300 secondaries, pfc, profec 2. Thats all thats installed til I was gonna get it tuned.

ok heres whats going on at start up...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcCqXCoA840

 

I plugged the ISC back in and grounded the fuel pump, no changes... Ill take a look at the plugs next.

 

Have you performed the idle learn function on the PFC?

 

Not yet, I figured I would have to get some type of idle to do anything..

 

ok, guys I pulled the plugs and cleaned them up because there was oil on the electrodes, and while they were out I tried the deflooding procedure just in case there was fuel sitting in there. Trying to start it up now it is similar in the way it wants to stall, but now it will occasionally respond to throttle better and can stay in mid rpm's for a few seconds before just sputtering out. I know its gotta be air/fuel/spark related, but hoping someone could lead me in the right direction.

Also the link to the video is above. THANKS!

 

BUY NEW PLUGS, hope that was clear Then adjust your idle via the idle adjust screw underneath the throttle body. Turn in counter clock wise about 4-5 good turns. I always set idle to 13-1400 on a fresh rebuild for the first 20 minutes or so the car runs, then adjust it down to around 1100 for the first couple hundred miles.

 

haha, ill try that out David.

thanks

 

Ok, so new plugs, and I adjusted the idle screw in every which way and had no effect... I also reset the Power FC to factory settings, and no changes were seen. Any other thoughts? Maybe Ill look into getting a fuel pressure gauge, but with the new pump I wouldnt of thought it would be a problem.

 

I've been watching this and can't wait for you to solve this problem and get to enjoy your car. I'm planning on getting my car started this weekend and that's why I've been keeping my eye on your situation. Best of luck to you.

 

Did you check your map sensor vacuum line?

 

Hey man, thanks a lot... appreciate it. I hope you get all your problems figured out as well. Best of luck back to you!

 

I have the GM 3bar boost sensor on there and its hooked up the the UIM and everything...

 

that sounds exactly like the map sensor vacuum line being knocked off... is there another link detailing your rebuild?

 

Mr. dabigesii... Mr. Snow you guys are geniuses (and everyone else that posted of course)! lol. Soo, I took off the GM 3 bar boost sensor I got from Banzai Racing and put the stock one back on, fired right up and idled basically fine! Just need to make some adjustments here and there.

If all this was cured by the stock map sensor back on, would you guys say that the 3 bar one I got is faulty?

One more question I have been trying to search for to no avail... my Greddy boost gauge I bought off the forum arrived with the needle pinned at 30psi. I figured once I powered it up that it would just settle back to zero, but it doesnt move at all even when everything is on. Do you guys have any insight?

Sorry for all the questions. Ive had this car sitting in my garage for over a year slowly buying parts and working on it from the ground up, I really appreciate the help GUYS!!

 

take the gauge apart, there is a bellows setup that is connected to a gear that drives the needle you will need to play with this so that the needle sits true, then re-assemble.
sorry i dont have any pics. it is exactly the same as a refrigeration gauge, maybe there is somewhere near you that you can take it to to get it calibrated?

 

cool, ya I tried to take it apart but didn't have enough time. Ill try to spend some more time to get in side... If that doesnt work, what type of place were you thinking of that would calibrate it?

thanks

 

You need to change the MAP sensor setting in the PFC to run the GM 3 bar, it will not operate properly when set on the stock map sensor setting.
You will need access to a datalogit to change this.

Also the ISC will buzz when the battery voltage is too low or there is a short at the connector.