youngin

I just got done dropping in my engine after doing my first rebuild. Everything went pretty well until I decided to put the fluids in. I noticed I had a coolant leak around the turbo area. Turns out one of the copper fittings and the hard coolant pipes was missing. After a few cuss words finally got it loose and put the copper ring in and tightened it back up. I still have the coolant leak, so I think it was a broken hard pipe that is the culprit. Ill be taking the turbos off to find out for sure sometime soon.

My real question comes from what compression #s I should suspect from a fresh engine that has not had a mile of break in time yet. The reason I ask is because I started it up and the usually clouds of smoke came out, but it will not idle right, and I can't get it to start without holding the accelerater peddle to the floor. Im wondering if I messed up on my rebuild, or I have some vacume or fuel problem. I removed all the vacume lines from the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and the last soliniod on the rack. I was thinking that all of these ran to emmisions things that i have already removed. Also on the air pipe running to the cat, does this pipe still receive any type of flow after the air pump has been removed. If it does I have to seal the plate up that goes over it.

I did a compression test and I was getting around 90 on the front and the rear. I know these are no good #s but I am wondering if it is because the seals have not had time to set in properly. Remeber no break in miles yet.

Any help would great. I'm hoping that you will reasure me that the engine rebuild was ok too.

youngin

I installed the RA apex seals with oem springs. Will these seals take longer to break in?

bump

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

yes.

youngin

yes to what?

BigBoosting

This is good to read for your break-in period:
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...r/breakin.html

Yes, compression will get better over time. After the break-in period compression continues to go up and get better.

I mean yeah it is possible a vacuum line or something got mixed up along the way. But your engine isn't going to be great until after the break-in period anyway. Just go easy on it. Don't boost. It should get better and follow the rules on that link I sent you. I followed that when I did mine and everything went well for me. Especially read #s 8, 9, 10.

youngin

Thanks for that link. How about that air pipe going from the LIM to the cat?

1234rotor

iTrader: (1)

You have to block it off if I remember correctly. I had to block off two holes when i removed my air pump pipes.

I went the easy and free route. I cut the flanges off the pipe and filled in the hole with weld w/ my mig welder. It seals just fine.... but you might want the block off plate kit if you cannot fab something.

Are you non-sequential or single? I am just wondering why you removed those vac. lines from the solenoids.

I have all my vac. lines still and no air-pump. I still have the Accelerated warm-up device on my LIM and i have no check lights or irregular running.

When you do the Comp. test have a warm engine, no fuel, all other spark plugs inserted, and wide open throttle while turning the car over.

youngin

Im still sequential and as far as I can tell All of those lines have been blocked off by the block off plays, so its ok to remove the lines going to them? The engine was fairly warm but not operating temp but it wasnt at WOT when I did the test. Do those #s look alright for where I am at now? I think I have a block off plate laying around to plug up that line.

Im guessing from the replies and that link that the engine itself is ok and just needs to be broken in after I fix that turbo coolant leak.