Now, lets take a look at the Turbine Bearing. Unlike the Compressor Bearing, the T-B is secured with TWO small snap-rings. One that keeps it from dropping into the Bearing Housing Chamber, and another that locks it in place.

Here's a photo that shows the new Turbine Bearing secured by the snap-rings.....

 

This photo shows the Turbine Seal installed in it's designated seat. If this baby breaks, or is worn pretty bad, it will cause problems including Turbo smoke or even small amounts of oil coming out of your muffler. This Seal is the main culprit on most of our smoking Turbo issues!! Also, if it breaks and dislodges from the seal seat, the broken piece can damage the Turbine blade. Not Good!!

Here's a photo....

 

More photos later. Thanks.

 

This photo compares the new and old Compressor Nut.

At first, I wasn't going to use the new one , but after seeing it was easier to get a tighter lock on the Compressor Wheel, than with the old one, I decided to use the new one.

 

This photo shows the Turbine Wheel/Shaft inserted in the Bearing Housing. Before this is done, be sure to place the Heat Cover back on. The fitment is so good that you really have to look real close to identify it.

You'll probably have to apply a little pressure and turn the Wheel/Shaft back and forth slightly as you try to insert it in. The new Turbine Seal expands a little more than the old seal did, so it makes it a little harder to insert it in, as the new seal is being compressed. But it will go in with just a little work.

If the Turbine Seal is/was bad, you'll see a lot of coking on top and underneath the Heat Cover.

Here's the photo.....

 

More photos later tonight of the "finished product".

The Rebuild Kit for my Primary Turbo was just delivered. I'll probably start and finish that rebuild tonight and install the Twins back on sometime tomorrow. I'll keep you guyz posted. Thanks.

 

CORRECTION.

On the above attached photo named "Turbineside-pic5.jpg" I identified the bearing as "Thrust Bearing". That is incorrect. The bearing I'm refering to in the photo is a "Turbine Bearing"....(which is installed in the Turbine side of the Bearing Housing). DOH!!!

Sorry for the error and confusion I may have caused. Thanks.

 

Great writeup, thanks

 

Thanks. The only photos left to be posted are:

- The Turbine Shaft installed showing the Compressor Bearing in place.

- The Turbine Shaft installed showing the Thrust Bearing in place along with the O-Ring seated.

- Seal Plate installed along with the little Shaft Seal that sits under the Compressor Wheel.

- And finally a photo with the Compressor Wheel and Nut installed on the Turbine Shaft.

Four photos in all. And that will do it for my Turbo rebuild. I hope it's been a helpful thread. I'll post them late tonight.

 

Here are the last photos that document the final stages of the rebuild.

This photo shows the Turbine Shaft already inserted through the Bearing Housing with the Compressor/Shaft Bearing seated.

 

The next photo shows the Thrust Bearing with it's Mating Ring and the O-Ring installed.

O-Ring Installation Tip: At first, the O-Ring didn't want to stay in it's groove. It kept popping out because it seemed a little too small for the groove. What I did to finally make it stay, was that I stretched it a little. I did this a few times. Just don't stretch it too much or it might bust. It stayed in it's groove/seat after it was stretched.

Here's the photo....

 

This photo shows the Seal Plate installed. I installed it using my index marks placed on the edge of the Plate and Bearing Housing before it was taken apart.

Note the Seal (brass colored) in the center of the Plate. If you start seeing a lot of oil puddles in your IC piping, this Seal might need replacing. Another component that may fail and cause oil puddles in the IC piping is the O-Ring thats been shown in the other photographs.

 

This photo shows the Compressor Seal placed in the Shaft with the Compressor Wheel before they are pushed down flush to the Seal Plate and secured with the Compressor Nut.

 

This photo shows the complete Bearing Housing assembly. Remember to align the Wheels to their respective index marks before tightning the Nut.



The only thing left to do is to install this assembly into the Compressor Housing and securing it with the large Snap-Ring. Then installing it back onto the Manifold, connecting the water and oil lines.

 

The Finished Product. ..

 

A view of the Compressor Housing.

 

These are great pictures. Thank you so much for a great write up and everything you did in this thread. It's really awsome. I do have just last request. Can you please post all the tools that You neede to do this job.

Thanks a lot

 

Probable Diagnosis:

- Turbo is smoking: (problem concentrated to the Turbine side) Bad or Broken Turbine Seal

- Excessive Oil in IC Piping: (problem concentrated to the Compressor side) Bad or Broken Plate Seal and/or O-Ring

- Excessive Wheel/Shaft play: Compressor and Turbine Bearings (2) need to be replaced.

 

Thanks for reminding me. Let me go downstairs and I'll shoot a photo of the tools I used and post it in a few minutes.

I'm glad you liked the write-up. I'm hoping it will come in handy to a fellow member one of these days.

 

Here's a photo of the tools I use for the Rebuild...

From left to right:

- Pair of Large Snap-Ring Pliers
- pair of small snap-ring pliers (size .30)
- 10mm Wrench
- 10mm Socket w/Rachet
- Hex Bit size .20
- Dental Pick (I clean my teeth a alot when I don't understand what I'm doing)
- Small flat-head screwdriver
- Dial Calipers (makes me look like I know what I'm doing
- Home Made Press (thanks to Maxcooper!) w/ wrenches
- Head banned Flash Light

Ooops. Forgot to include a 12mm wrench. It's used to hold the Turbine Shaft (nut is cast at the end of the Blade) as you take-off/install the Compresssor Nut.

 

I should have mentioned this but forgot. You can damage the piston ring bore if you try to force it in. The best way I've found to install the ring without damaging the sealing surface is to spin the shaft wheel assembly and give it a smack on the turbine end, pushing it in. Make sure the piston ring's got some oil on it to help coax it in, but one decent push and it'll go in - just make sure the turbine wheel is spinning.

 

Yeah... Me, this sunday

 

I just twisted the Turbine Wheel back and forth till it popped in. I oiled it before the attempt was made. It goes in pretty easy if the Compressor Bearing isn't installed. Thanks.

 

If you run into a problem, PM me w/your phone number and I'll call you back asap. Good Luck.
-Jimmy

 

Finished the second Turbo rebuild a while ago. Took abut 1.5 hours from the start. Just taking a little brake before I go out to install the Twins (and everything else). Can't wait to crank her up.

I'll post updates later this afternoon.