Questions before undertaking Turbo rebuild...
02-23-04, 08:01 PM
#27
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Originally posted by Enconsiderate
I sure wouldn't mind a copy of that video! Perhaps you can zip it and send it via AIM????
I sure wouldn't mind a copy of that video! Perhaps you can zip it and send it via AIM????
BUT,....the "mountain" has to be conquered first!!.
02-23-04, 10:25 PM
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Originally posted by BoOsTin FD
So did you actually start the rebuilt yet?
I'm very interested in seeing how it turns out. Pics would be a plus
So did you actually start the rebuilt yet?
I'm very interested in seeing how it turns out. Pics would be a plus
But if I get a chance during the week, I'll start the process of taking off the Turbos/Manifold.
02-24-04, 01:05 AM
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Uuuh... yes, the thrust bearing can most definitely be worn. Take a look at the pads and look for any discoloration. If you see scoring or discoloration then definitely swap it out. Yes, the smaller holes can get clogged easier than the big ones (makes sense). Keep fresh oil in your car and a good filter and you should be okay. Give your turbos a chance to cool before you shut the car off and that's the best thing you can do to ward off cooling.
If I had to guess, I'd say that the turbos are first balanced individually and then balanced as an assembly. Definitely mark your wheels so that they go back on the same, relative to each other. Otherwise it looks to be fairly straightforward.
How much for the rebuild kit?
If I had to guess, I'd say that the turbos are first balanced individually and then balanced as an assembly. Definitely mark your wheels so that they go back on the same, relative to each other. Otherwise it looks to be fairly straightforward.
How much for the rebuild kit?
02-24-04, 07:24 AM
#31
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Originally posted by Stan94GT
....How much for the rebuild kit?
....How much for the rebuild kit?
02-24-04, 10:55 PM
#32
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Originally posted by Stan94GT
Uuuh... yes, the thrust bearing can most definitely be worn. Take a look at the pads and look for any discoloration. If you see scoring or discoloration then definitely swap it out. Yes, the smaller holes can get clogged easier than the big ones (makes sense). Keep fresh oil in your car and a good filter and you should be okay. Give your turbos a chance to cool before you shut the car off and that's the best thing you can do to ward off cooling.
If I had to guess, I'd say that the turbos are first balanced individually and then balanced as an assembly. Definitely mark your wheels so that they go back on the same, relative to each other. Otherwise it looks to be fairly straightforward.
How much for the rebuild kit?
Uuuh... yes, the thrust bearing can most definitely be worn. Take a look at the pads and look for any discoloration. If you see scoring or discoloration then definitely swap it out. Yes, the smaller holes can get clogged easier than the big ones (makes sense). Keep fresh oil in your car and a good filter and you should be okay. Give your turbos a chance to cool before you shut the car off and that's the best thing you can do to ward off cooling.
If I had to guess, I'd say that the turbos are first balanced individually and then balanced as an assembly. Definitely mark your wheels so that they go back on the same, relative to each other. Otherwise it looks to be fairly straightforward.
How much for the rebuild kit?
Answer me this:
Why would you whanna increase the chance of the thrust bearing oil passages getting clogged easyer anyway, when it's already proven that they will clogg up?
02-25-04, 02:48 AM
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Signs of the thrust bearing being worn out. Check the pads (that's the small area that sits up off the majority of the thrust bearing, the pad area). If they're scuffed, then they're worn. If they're discolored, then the bearings have overheated. Either way, if you see those signs then definitely replace it. If you've got a brand new thrust bearing sitting there next to your used unit... change it.
Sure, the new thrust bearing has smaller oil passages meaning it might be easier to clog up. How do you prevent buildup from accumulating in this area? Make sure to run clean oil. Change your oil often. Any FD owner should be changing their oil at 3k intervals MAX anyway. Hell, my FD goes through about a quart every 1000-1500 miles so my oil's almost always fresh when I change it out at 3k anyway! Make sure you're running a high quality filter to keep particulates from clogging any of your oil feed passages (including those on the thrust bearing). Take care of your oil, make sure you give the turbos a chance to cool down so they don't coke, and you won't have any problems with the smaller oil feed passages on the new thrust bearing.
If your previous oil feed passages on the thrust bearing have already clogged up;
- your oil is getting contaminated.
- you're not changing your oil often enough.
- your filter doesn't work well enough.
- you didn't let the turbos cool down and you're experiencing coking.
Take your pick, any of the above has the potential to clog your oil feed passages.
re-reading my initial post... it should have read "and that's the best thing you can do to ward off COKING", not cooling
Sure, the new thrust bearing has smaller oil passages meaning it might be easier to clog up. How do you prevent buildup from accumulating in this area? Make sure to run clean oil. Change your oil often. Any FD owner should be changing their oil at 3k intervals MAX anyway. Hell, my FD goes through about a quart every 1000-1500 miles so my oil's almost always fresh when I change it out at 3k anyway! Make sure you're running a high quality filter to keep particulates from clogging any of your oil feed passages (including those on the thrust bearing). Take care of your oil, make sure you give the turbos a chance to cool down so they don't coke, and you won't have any problems with the smaller oil feed passages on the new thrust bearing.
If your previous oil feed passages on the thrust bearing have already clogged up;
- your oil is getting contaminated.
- you're not changing your oil often enough.
- your filter doesn't work well enough.
- you didn't let the turbos cool down and you're experiencing coking.
Take your pick, any of the above has the potential to clog your oil feed passages.
re-reading my initial post... it should have read "and that's the best thing you can do to ward off COKING", not cooling
02-25-04, 12:48 PM
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I will send you a video as soon as you can make me a copy. I think I'll wait for my rebuild until I can watch yours. If your using video maybe it may be faster if you upload it to your comp. and send it to me via aol instant messenger. ( that is if its not too much trouble. either way will be fine).
also i see a lot of people here talking about balancing and i wondering if you are going to take your turbos to get balanced.
also i see a lot of people here talking about balancing and i wondering if you are going to take your turbos to get balanced.
02-29-04, 09:41 AM
#36
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Well men, It's time to "get it on". I'M GOING UNDER!. It's 9:40 a.m. I'll post follow-ups this afternoon.
02-29-04, 09:56 AM
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Here is a site that may come in useful in your rebuild Quest....lol It has been one of the most helpful pages I have ever used.
http://www.fd3s.net/how-to_turbos.html
http://www.fd3s.net/how-to_turbos.html
Last edited by dgeesaman; 06-18-07 at 11:20 AM.
03-01-04, 09:13 AM
#39
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Sorry for not posting an update yesterday. Had other matters pending and I got busy.
It took me 5.5 hours to remove the Turbos. This included a few trips to the local AutoZone to buy a few items. Not sure if the proper way to remove them was from the bottom or the top, so I took them out from the top. Much to my dismay, It seems that the Secondary Turbo is the one leaking oil, (I originally suspected the Primary) as the Primary Turbo looks pretty clean as you look down the Turbo funnel (the part that attaches to the Y-Pipe). I didn't get a chance to start the rebuild. I just took them off and cleaned the assembly externally. I'll probably start the rebuild tonight. I'll document the process thoroughly and post photos.
I've decided to order another Kit. I'll order it this morning with the hope it arrives late this week.
It took me 5.5 hours to remove the Turbos. This included a few trips to the local AutoZone to buy a few items. Not sure if the proper way to remove them was from the bottom or the top, so I took them out from the top. Much to my dismay, It seems that the Secondary Turbo is the one leaking oil, (I originally suspected the Primary) as the Primary Turbo looks pretty clean as you look down the Turbo funnel (the part that attaches to the Y-Pipe). I didn't get a chance to start the rebuild. I just took them off and cleaned the assembly externally. I'll probably start the rebuild tonight. I'll document the process thoroughly and post photos.
I've decided to order another Kit. I'll order it this morning with the hope it arrives late this week.
03-01-04, 11:12 AM
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I want you guys to take a look at this photo. Tell me if the Crack in the Manifold (the crack that's located in the portion that separates the exhaust ports) will present a problem. It seems to have cracked all the way through. Can it be repaired?? J-B weld??..
Last edited by dgeesaman; 06-18-07 at 11:20 AM.
03-01-04, 11:20 AM
#43
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Originally posted by areXseven
I want you guys to take a look at this photo...
I want you guys to take a look at this photo...
03-01-04, 12:03 PM
#44
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Originally posted by DamonB
One that bad is best thrown away. JB Weld won't live long inside a turbo exhaust manifold and the cracks are much to bad to bother trying to weld IMO
One that bad is best thrown away. JB Weld won't live long inside a turbo exhaust manifold and the cracks are much to bad to bother trying to weld IMO
03-01-04, 01:06 PM
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Originally posted by Just Bring It
...I don't know how can you replace that unless you get another set of twins.
...I don't know how can you replace that unless you get another set of twins.
03-01-04, 01:22 PM
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Originally posted by Just Bring It
so is the rebuilt still on it's way though? Any progress pics yet?
so is the rebuilt still on it's way though? Any progress pics yet?
03-01-04, 04:33 PM
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Originally posted by SBi_Owner
Here is a site that may come in useful in your rebuild Quest....lol It has been one of the most helpful pages I have ever used.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/how-to_turbos.html
Here is a site that may come in useful in your rebuild Quest....lol It has been one of the most helpful pages I have ever used.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/how-to_turbos.html
Last edited by areXseven; 03-01-04 at 04:37 PM.
03-01-04, 04:43 PM
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Originally posted by Stan94GT
Signs of the thrust bearing being worn out. Check the pads (that's the small area that sits up off the majority of the thrust bearing, the pad area). If they're scuffed, then they're worn. If they're discolored, then the bearings have overheated. Either way, if you see those signs then definitely replace it. If you've got a brand new thrust bearing sitting there next to your used unit... change it.
Signs of the thrust bearing being worn out. Check the pads (that's the small area that sits up off the majority of the thrust bearing, the pad area). If they're scuffed, then they're worn. If they're discolored, then the bearings have overheated. Either way, if you see those signs then definitely replace it. If you've got a brand new thrust bearing sitting there next to your used unit... change it.