paw140

I searched, but couldn't find the answers to these questions.

If someone has a link to an engine removal writeup, I'd appreciate it.

I'm in the process of pulling the engine & tranny. It's almost ready to come out, but I have a couple of questions so I'm ready when I finish pulling it tomorrow.

1) How do you remove the power steering pump? Do you have to remove the pully?

2) Do you have to remove the entire power plant frame, or just unbolt it from the tranny?

3) Do you have to remove the driveshaft, or will it just pull out of the tranny when you pull the engine?

4) If the answer to 2 or 3 is yes, then do I have to remove the catalytic converter?

5) For the motor mounts, all I have to do is take off the single large nut that bolts through the engine cradle, right?

6) Do I have to remove the downpipe, or can I just leave it bolted to the engine?

Any help is appreciated. So far, I have drained all the fluids, removed the 4 PPF nuts on the tranny, removed the tranny cross brace, undid the oil cooler lines, the radiator hoses, removed the airbox and IC, unbolted the AC compressor, fed the wiring harness from the ECU thru the firewall, disconnected the fuel lines and slave cylinder line, and unbolted the DP from the cat. I think all I have left is some little things, plus all the items in my questions.

Thanks,
Paul

duboisr

No1 - remove pully to get to .No 2 remove it to make more room. No 3 remove it ,so easy and out of the way No4, just tie it out of the way No5 right No6 remove it so it will not hit things on the way out.

rotorbrain

duboisr pretty much got it. i didnt remove the driveshaft however. its not that bad. you have to have someone jack the engine/pull it back while doing it. put a box under the drive shaft. make a "U" shape on the top of the box so that the driveshaft will just fall into place. make sure that the box is in place to catch it in the right spot. you dont wanna drop it on the ground!!! after you get the box in place you can pretty much leave it alone. get out from under the car and start pushing down on the tranny to keep it from hitting the tunnel. once the driveshaft yoke comes out itll simply drop onto the box. your home free after that.

paul

karken29

1. Remove the pulley by locking pulley in place. That’s what those two (2) holes in the pulley face are for. Use a “Spanner-wrench” which looks like a large “C” with a handle. On the top and bottom of the “C” there are 2 metal dowels. Go to a tool supply store to purchase one. Be VERY careful when you remove the pulley. It is easily broken and expensive to replace. Once you taken off the 14mm nut, you’ll pull the pulley strait off.
2. disconnect the “ENGINE WIRE HARNESS” from the ECU and push through fire wall and lay on top of engine,
3. Since you’re intentions are to remove the engine and transmission, do this. Remove the Cat and Tail pipe,,, they’ll only be in the way,
4. Drain the Transmission, and remove the shifter from the top,
5. Remove the cross members.
6. unbolt the drive shaft (12mm nuts x4) at the Dif, and drop and remove from transmission.
7. place a jack or jack stand under the dif, it will want to rotate pinion gear down.
8. Drop your PPF, the nuts are lock tight in place… you’ll need an air gun or big *** breaker bar
9. leave the down pipe in place
10. unbolt engine from cross member…. Remove X2, 14mm nuts
11. Engine and trans assembly will be just slightly nose heavy
12. use cherry picker with ADJUSTABLE chain leveler… It’ll allow you to adjust the center of gravity on the chains attached to engine… so you can tilt motor.
13. Remove the IC brace…
14. you’re ready to pull…

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

From a pro. Removed over 20 motors from FDs.

1. You can leave the pump attached if you want. It'll make a little mess dripping on the way out. Just undo the two lines. One high pressure on top, the return line is on the back of the pump. Otherwise karken29 gave good info. It is a personal choice, both ways work well.

2. Remove PPF from trans, remove from diff if you think it is in your way.

3. Remove driveshaft, it is easy and simplifies reinstallation.

4. Remove the cat. That is the only exhaust you need to remove.

5. If you pull the trans with the engine, which is the way you should do it. Remove the 2 nuts that hold the engine to the crossmember. Lift engine a 1" or 2", remove the 3 bolts each that hold the mounts to the block. This is SO MUCH EASIER than removing the crossmember.

6. Absolutely leave the DP on. R+R is about a 5 min job when the engine is out. It is a PIA with the engine in. This goes for DP or stock Pre-cat. It doesn't get in the way during engine removal, trust me here.

Keep the drivers side harness on the motor, keep the slave cyl on the trans. Undo the two big gray plugs near drivers shock tower. Undo the rubber clutch line on the firewall.

Good luck,
Jeff

ArchangelX

Don't listen to Jeff.

He's lying...he doesn't even own an FD...

J/K

mks

Jeffs way would cause a mess and require more bleeding once you reinstall though. If you leave the PS pump and the clutch slave in the car, you leave the fluid circuits intact and won't have to refill/bleed when you reinstall.

I also don't see the need for removing the enginge mounts from the block before pulling.

Ohseyun

listen to jeff. hes an expert.

paw140

Everyone: Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.

turbojeff: Before I started the job, I did a search on 'engine removal' and 'turbojeff' . Unfortunately, it only brought up one thread, but your response way back in 2001 really helped. There were just a few unanswered questions.

Can I use an impact gun to remove the PS pump pulley? I don't have a spanner, and don't really want to buy one. I also don't have to have to deal with PS fluid dripping everywhere, so I'd like to get it out of the way.

I also don't understand the point of removing the motor mounts from the block. Once I undo those two nuts from the crossmember, won't they pull out with the engine? Maybe I'm missing something.

Paul

paw140

One last questions. karken29 said to use a jack on the diff when I remove the PPF, because it will want to rotate. Is there any danger of rolling the car around with no PPF, and with no jack under the diff?

Rated R1

I would not reccomend it. The rear diff needs to be supported when the PPF is removed. Moving the car may cause some problems.

mks

I used an impact air gun, works very well.

My motor mounts came out with the engine after unbolting those two big nuts from the cradle.

..but judging from above posts my experience doesn't count.

good luck

SPOautos

Here is what I do. Use the imapact to remove the pully then there are 3 bolts behind it to unbolt the PS. Its easy to undo with a imapact and it will be undone in 5 minutes....and not make a mess in the car and not worry about the lines leaking later.

I also undo the motor mounts from the crossmember and jack it up 2-3 inches then undo them from the engine block. I've done it both ways and this seemed easier. The motor mounts have a tendancy to get hung up on stuff.....not saying sometime they dont just slide right out but 80% of the time they get hung up and you'll fight them for an hour.

I unbolt the PPF from the trans and leave it hooked to the rear. I also leave the drive shaft in place and let it come out on its own onto something.

If you leave the driveshaft and PPF, someone really needs to be under the car to help direct cause the trans will need to be pushed to the side a little to clear the ppf. If you doing this yourself go a head and drop the PPF and drive shaft completely out. If you decide to drop them completely you'll need to also drop the cat like you asked about.

Leave the dp on the engine.

I think this covers it.

STEPHEN

SPOautos

Oh yea, if you drop the driveshaft they reccomend making a mark across where it bolts up to the diff so you can reinstall it exactly the way it came off.

I used a white out marker to mark it....being white its easier to see

STEPHEN

paw140

Thanks again. I think I'm going to remove the driveshaft and ppf, because it will probably make reinstallation go easier. It shouldn't take more than 20 minutes to do either.

My car is in a position right now where I'm going to have to lower it off the jackstands and move it in order to get the engine hoist in place. Is it ok to roll the car around with no ppf, and nothing supporting the rear end? This kind of concerns me...

meddle

Becareful with the power steering pulley. I broke mine and no one wants to give them up.

ejmack1

if you want a power steering pulley let me know!

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

You don't need to support the diff. I towed a 94 from San Diego to Eugene OR, 950 miles, with no engine, trans or PPF on a dolly, rear tires on the ground. You may have seen it at Seven Stock?

Rolling it around in the driveway will be no problem.

If you pull the engine with the trans it is really hard to get the motor mounts out of the "well" they are sunk in the crossmemeber/engine cradle. If you pull the engine alone (which I don't think is a good idea) then the engine will lift straight up. If the trans is attached the engine/trans will hit the trans tunnel before the mounts come of the hole.

Impact gun should work fine for PS pulley.

SPOautos

Do me a favor, and actually time it. When your done let me know how long it took you to drop the ppf and driveshaft.

I'm curious to see how close to the 20 minutes you were

lol

STEPHEN

paw140

You don't think so? What is it, like 4 more ppf nuts, 4 bolts for the driveshaft? Plus the cat? I'll let you know

SPOautos

Thats like the time a friend of mine (Lost Time on the forum) asked me how long it was going to take him to do the dp (his first time), I told him prob 3-4hrs. He was like WHAT, its only 4 bolts up top and 2 on bottom.

3 days later that ****'r was still jacked up in his driveway

HaHa

STEPHEN

ejmack1

that is the only thing on my car i had ever had to take my car to a mechanic for. And that was because the nuts were seized...

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

I think he said he had an impact gun. Taking off the PPF bolts and driveline bolts might be a 5 min job with one.

Jeff

SPOautos

Yea, it will if you dont have to make a trip to Sears for the socket, or that wierd sized extention and provided his impact can take it off. If its electric it might not take them off. If not they you have a trip to Home Depot for a pipe.

LOL, I'm just messing with you guys

But seriously thats how it is when your doing a big project lol

STEPHEN

paw140

Stephen,

Well, I timed myself. It took 45 minutes. And I do have air tools, but I didn't have to car jacked up high enough to easily get in there with my impact gun. But the impact gun did make quick work of the driveshaft bolts. And, that 45 minutes includes running into the house to survey the damage to my HEAD after the PPF frame struck it I got all the bolts out, and couldn't get it to come loose. I had to get a screwdriver and pry it off the diff. I had a pretty good hold of it so it wouldn't come crashing down on my head, but alas, **** happens. It's not bleeding too badly

I think I'm ready to hook up the hoist and pull it out, but I have to run to Autozone and rent the chains. I think I'm done for today.

Thanks for all the help everyone. I think I have close to 5 hours into this so far, and for a first time, without any helpers, I don't think thats too bad.