I desperatly want a 3rd gen R1 RX-7. the only problem is that i cant buy it and then have the motor go out in it, that would be disastrous.

the first mods i do are going to be reliability mods. i want to stick with the stock twins- and shoot for around 300 hp. i talked to a guy at Rotary Performance, he said that they got like 320 i think, and still had the stock turbos.

which reliability mods would you suggest first? have to run to class- ill type more in a little while.

thanks

 

i belive most r1 (or r2) hav done the lifeboat mod. um..boost gauge and downpipe first. do a search please

 

Spend some time and read these sites/threads, they will answer all your questions.

 

i figured asking you guys directly would be better than just running a search. seeing as though you actually have the car and can speak from experience.

thanks for the articles.

 

We get dozens of

Hi I'm 16 and want a RX-7, every single freaking day.

We are sick and tired of it. If you can't figure out how to lookup info this basic this early in the game don't bother buying the car.

 

Uh...and the people who wrote the articles I directed you to are just pulling stuff out of their *** without ever owning an FD?

 

FD = Money Pit, if you want to find an exceptional copy plan on spending 6+ mo. of searching, and 1/2 of that reading posts and those sites...

Even so anything over 200 RWHP = Not Reliable, no matter how stock or how many reliability mods you want to stick on, since when you start changeing the intake exhaust etc... small things can go wrong, you hit a bad tank of gas, you're allready close to the edge, Boom... Keep it stock, with reliability mods, and maybe turn the boost down, and you'll have the car for a while 100k maybe 150k but then figure on getting a new motor, so I'd say @ 75 K mi start saving

 

The comment may seem a little harsh but you wanted opinions from people who own FDs. The reality of it is if you are worried about the cost of the motor going out on you after getting the car then you really are in no position to consider long term ownership.
You need to be ready to put up anywhere from 3K to 5K beyond the cost of the car, insurance and routine maintenance costs at any time. If you can't then most likely you will have the car for a while and have to sell it with a blown engine at half of the price your paid for it.

 

To reiterate what the others said, if you have to worry about paying for a blown motor, then this car isn't for you.

It's not being harsh, it's being truthful. There a LOT of people on this board living paycheck to paycheck (why, I don't know) to support their FDs.

 

WTF is all you you guys problem????

when i asked this question i figured i would get a couple links to good places that i could read stuff, from people who i could trust. instead i get a bunch of screaming tyrants. which i figure is due to the fact i only have like 10 posts on the forum.

i am not 16- im 21- and by the results of the poll that one of you made, that asked how old most of you are, i am just as old as you. when i said i had to run to class, i wasnt talking about 10th grade english class- i was talking about college.

i am worried about the engine going out instantly, i was just saying that so that you would know that i am going to try to enhance reliability.

POSTED BY DCROSBY

"FD = Money Pit, if you want to find an exceptional copy plan on spending 6+ mo. of searching, and 1/2 of that reading posts and those sites...

Even so anything over 200 RWHP = Not Reliable, no matter how stock or how many reliability mods you want to stick on, since when you start changeing the intake exhaust etc... small things can go wrong, you hit a bad tank of gas, you're allready close to the edge, Boom... Keep it stock, with reliability mods, and maybe turn the boost down, and you'll have the car for a while 100k maybe 150k but then figure on getting a new motor, so I'd say @ 75 K mi start saving "

this was a helpful post. i already knew how long the engines were good for, but nevertheless helpful. At least he didnt attack me like some rude a$$hole. Thank you DCrosby and Kento for the helpful info. The rest of you need to take a chill pill.

 

I will sell you some forged pistons and push-rods if you are interested. Price, $250 Oh wait, you mean they don't have pistons, how the hell does the damn car run?? Rotors you say, that sounds complicated..