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Old 09-22-05, 05:36 PM
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question about compression

Shop says compression is 6-1 on 1st rotor and 5.2-1 on second. They said this means i need new motor because second rotor is below spec. Do i really need a new motor? Is 5.2-1 indicate apex seal failure or maybe just a small leak? I dont have the money for a new engine right now. Is It bad to drive it with the compresdsion a little out of spec?
Old 09-22-05, 05:38 PM
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IIRC, 9.5 is perfect. so yeah, i would say even your front rotor is low.
Old 09-22-05, 05:42 PM
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could it be a leak in the air intake.
Old 09-22-05, 05:44 PM
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Need more info!

How many miles on the engine?
Any mods to the car?
Old 09-22-05, 05:46 PM
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what kind of shop? what kind of compression tester did they use? You should get 3 compression readings for each rotor if it is done correctly. You can use a piston tester (minus schrader valve), but not use it like you would on a piston engine.
Old 09-22-05, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by joeyz87
could it be a leak in the air intake.
Vacuum leaks have nothing to do with compression. Compression is a test to show how well the internal engine seals are sealing (as well as their surfaces).
Old 09-22-05, 05:53 PM
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Maybe my battery wasnt fully charged. the car has 92k miles and its all stock .
Old 09-22-05, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TwinTurbo_SE7EN
what kind of shop? what kind of compression tester did they use? You should get 3 compression readings for each rotor if it is done correctly. You can use a piston tester (minus schrader valve), but not use it like you would on a piston engine.
the mazda dealership did the compression test.
Old 09-22-05, 06:00 PM
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As long as it still runs, you can still drive it. But expect it to die very soon when the compression gets below 4. You can't even start your car anymore.

Chuck
Old 09-22-05, 06:06 PM
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I couldnt start it thats why i had compression tested. the dealership managed to start it. Damn I dont have money for new engine. I only have like $1500.
Old 09-22-05, 06:26 PM
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Opps, looks like your compression is too low for it to start up right now. $1500 is not enough. You need at least $4000. $2600 for the reman motor and $1400 for labor. You might need to spend more if the gaskets and hoses on the car are bad.

Chuck


Originally Posted by joeyz87
I couldnt start it thats why i had compression tested. the dealership managed to start it. Damn I dont have money for new engine. I only have like $1500.
Old 09-22-05, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by joeyz87
I couldnt start it thats why i had compression tested. the dealership managed to start it. Damn I dont have money for new engine. I only have like $1500.
Talk to Kevin at Rotary Resurrection: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/
Old 09-22-05, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by joeyz87
Maybe my battery wasnt fully charged. the car has 92k miles and its all stock .


Since you don't have the money, now is a good time to learn how to do some things yourself. Do you have any mechanical knowledge? I have some ideas that may help you. Since your car is all stock, I think your compression is low because of stuck seals. I have 98k on my car with original engine and have much higher compression numbers than you do. Since Mazda did the test, can you scan the print out? We need to see the compression on all the rotor faces front and rear. If all the peaks are even on the print out, that's a good indication that no internal seals are blown.

Last edited by t-von; 09-22-05 at 11:06 PM.
Old 09-23-05, 01:44 AM
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I dont know i have to ask for print out they just told me on the phone. There doing the brake vacuum recall. The mechanic said it still gets up. Id like to work on the car myself, problem is i have no garage or proper tools. I can park my car on the sidewalk but not work on it there.

Last edited by joeyz87; 09-23-05 at 01:55 AM.
Old 09-23-05, 03:44 AM
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Originally Posted by joeyz87
I dont know i have to ask for print out they just told me on the phone. There doing the brake vacuum recall.

Get the printout since your paying for the test. Since you have no location to work on the car, I would suggest you start making some friends.
Old 09-26-05, 10:37 PM
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Compression test results

Ok the mazda dealership did compression test. # readings for each rotor. Front rotor 7.9-7.8-7.8. Rear rotor 5.2-5.7-7.1. DOes this mean I have bad apex seal?
Old 09-26-05, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by joeyz87
Ok the mazda dealership did compression test. # readings for each rotor. Front rotor 7.9-7.8-7.8. Rear rotor 5.2-5.7-7.1. DOes this mean I have bad apex seal?
Looks like a bad apex seal (maybe chipped) in the rear rotor. Front rotor look OK.

Rebuild time!
Old 09-26-05, 10:46 PM
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would it help to use thicker oil 10w40 20w50. It leaks oil on the ground alot.
Old 09-26-05, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by joeyz87
would it help to use thicker oil 10w40 20w50. It leaks oil on the ground alot.
Oil doesn't matter. Once you have a compression different that much between the front and rear rotor, you need a rebuild (or another engine).

If I were you, I would find out why you lost compression in the rear rotor. If all you do is slap a new engine in it, you may damage the replacement again real quick.

You see how you have 5.X-5.X-7.X? That means you have a damaged apex seal that is exposing two rotor faces to each other.
Old 09-27-05, 01:44 AM
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I think it happened when the clutch blew and the engine over revved. Or maybe when clutch wizard disconnected my map sencor and then drove it. WOuld it be ok to just replace the rear apex seal since the front is ok?
Old 09-27-05, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by joeyz87

WOuld it be ok to just replace the rear apex seal since the front is ok?
It would be prudent to do both.
Old 09-27-05, 04:31 AM
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Well you could always pull the engine and remove the turbo to do an inspection of the rear rotor. If the seal is blown, you should be able to see it through the exhaust port. You could also see if there is any scoring on the rotor housing.
Old 09-27-05, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by joeyz87
I think it happened when the clutch blew and the engine over revved.
That's possible, but not likely unless you REALLY overreved.

Originally Posted by joeyz87
Or maybe when clutch wizard disconnected my map sencor and then drove it.
Nope, the car goes into a type of limp mode as it can't sense what the manifold pressure really is. If you have ever had it pop off while driving, the car seems like it will barely run.

Originally Posted by joeyz87
WOuld it be ok to just replace the rear apex seal since the front is ok?
Not really. Once you pull the engine studs, it releases the tension on all the seals. The internal o-rings are really a "one time use" item as they get smashed into place when you tension the engine. The whole engine needs to come apart and everything needs to get inspected to see what can be reused.
Old 09-27-05, 09:28 AM
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joeyz87, man you have a problem! from all the info you have given since you joined, I would say "SELL THE CAR" to someone that for one: has the time and money to take care of this car, 2: doesn't rag on the car daily, 3: listens before major failure. You simply fucked this car up. I can't believe you bought an extremely high mileage FD and figured you could take care of it by delivering pizzas with it, leaving it running for extended periods of time, and half assing its maintenance. You should have been wiser. I am for one tired of giving you advice and predicting your blown engine. It was inevitable that this car was on its way out. So finally maybe you will listen, sell it. you might get enough to get a reliable car and stop wasting peoples time with this neverending story. unbelievable!!!
Old 09-27-05, 11:23 AM
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Sonix, that is harsh man, but your point is valid nevertheless.

The car is at best a hobby and should be considered as such. It makes a cool driver when in good condition but I think it costs a fair amount of cash to keep it that way. Piling debt on a credit card would not be a good solution as some do. As far as mods go, there is no coming out even in my opinion. Therefore, it is for the love of the car and something to spend your time on.

Very Bad investment, but quite good entertainment......for those not easily frustrated. It is definately not for those poor drivers or those who are not mechanically inclined. I grow weary of reading about those who are unwilling to learn. For them, this will be a great excercise in maximum frustration. Maybe later in life they will be better suited to do what is necessary to have a good experience.
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