Question about 5-pt harness
#1
Question about 5-pt harness
I now have my racing buckets installed, and my 4-pt rollbar will be installed mid-week. I need two 5-pt harnesses, and I have a few questions. 1st, what is the best (most cost-efficient) brand/place to buy them? Ive been looking around online the past few days and Ive seen prices ranging from $50-$200+. This is the 1st time Ive needed to buy harnesses and Im a bit lost. I know it isnt something to cheap out on, but I dont want to just waste money on a brand name either. Also, I would like the type that cross over in the back to attach at a single mounting point, as in the picture below. Is this type called a something different? If someone could point me in the right direction, Id appreciate it
#2
Rxmfn7, I dunno about them merging together into one attachment point, but I got these: http://www.speedstash.com/interior2.html Specifically, the RCI's.
One of my major issues is, a lot of ppl buy harnesses just for the look...and you end up w/ this tiny, 1" wide strap that will DESTROY you in the event that you're in an accident that really puts a lot of stress on the harnesses. I'm sure you know from basic physics that pressure = force/area. The thinner the harness, the greater focused pressure you'll have to a very small area, the more likely the damage to your body in the area held by the harness will be severe. That's why I went w/ the 3" wide harnesses; the wider harness = larger area to distribute the force over = less pressure on your body = less likely to cause severe damage in an accident. And FYI, yes, belts and harnesses can save your life, but can also give you a nice painful injury as well.
~Ramy
One of my major issues is, a lot of ppl buy harnesses just for the look...and you end up w/ this tiny, 1" wide strap that will DESTROY you in the event that you're in an accident that really puts a lot of stress on the harnesses. I'm sure you know from basic physics that pressure = force/area. The thinner the harness, the greater focused pressure you'll have to a very small area, the more likely the damage to your body in the area held by the harness will be severe. That's why I went w/ the 3" wide harnesses; the wider harness = larger area to distribute the force over = less pressure on your body = less likely to cause severe damage in an accident. And FYI, yes, belts and harnesses can save your life, but can also give you a nice painful injury as well.
~Ramy
Last edited by FDNewbie; 04-22-06 at 05:59 AM.
#3
Mr. Links
iTrader: (1)
I use the GForce belts. They have a Camlock version and non-Camlock version:
http://www.saferacer.com/pr5pcaha.html (pictured is the 6pt, but they have a 5pt)
http://www.saferacer.com/prose5plalih.html
Here's an older shot of mine:
http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/FD...e/MVC-018F.JPG
http://www.saferacer.com/pr5pcaha.html (pictured is the 6pt, but they have a 5pt)
http://www.saferacer.com/prose5plalih.html
Here's an older shot of mine:
http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/FD...e/MVC-018F.JPG
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[QUOTE=Rxmfn7
1st, what is the best (most cost-efficient) brand/place to buy them? Ive been looking around online the past few days and Ive seen prices ranging from $50-$200+. This is the 1st time Ive needed to buy harnesses and Im a bit lost. I know it isnt something to cheap out on, but I dont want to just waste money on a brand name either. Also, I would like the type that cross over in the back to attach at a single mounting point, as in the picture below. Is this type called a something different? If someone could point me in the right direction, Id appreciate it
[/QUOTE]
Not sure why you would skimp out on the harnesses. It's not a waste of money to buy a brand name, they're a brand name because they're tested thoroughly, accepted in the business and most of all work. Think of it as insurance. I would go with Simpson or G-Force.
I prefer to get the type that wraps around the roll bar, not the single tie point. In my mind, two ties points would spread the load. Simpson calls the single tie point belts "V-Belt".
I'm not sure where the cheapest place is to get them.
One thing to note, the harnesses are not DOT approved and are not street legal. Though I've haven't heard of anyone specifically getting ticketed for it.
1st, what is the best (most cost-efficient) brand/place to buy them? Ive been looking around online the past few days and Ive seen prices ranging from $50-$200+. This is the 1st time Ive needed to buy harnesses and Im a bit lost. I know it isnt something to cheap out on, but I dont want to just waste money on a brand name either. Also, I would like the type that cross over in the back to attach at a single mounting point, as in the picture below. Is this type called a something different? If someone could point me in the right direction, Id appreciate it
[/QUOTE]
Not sure why you would skimp out on the harnesses. It's not a waste of money to buy a brand name, they're a brand name because they're tested thoroughly, accepted in the business and most of all work. Think of it as insurance. I would go with Simpson or G-Force.
I prefer to get the type that wraps around the roll bar, not the single tie point. In my mind, two ties points would spread the load. Simpson calls the single tie point belts "V-Belt".
I'm not sure where the cheapest place is to get them.
One thing to note, the harnesses are not DOT approved and are not street legal. Though I've haven't heard of anyone specifically getting ticketed for it.
Last edited by ArcWelder; 04-22-06 at 10:57 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by ArcWelder
One thing to note, the harnesses are not DOT approved and are not street legal. Though I've haven't heard of anyone specifically getting ticketed for it.
~Ramy
#10
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
If its for the look whatever...
But the single mounting point isnt legal for all race series, check your regulations if this is what your looking for.
Any harness that meets SFI 16.1 is technically safe... And most any harness will meet this. Like said tho they arnt DOT approved therefore not reccomended for the street.
Ive got an RCI because it works and it was cheap.
But the single mounting point isnt legal for all race series, check your regulations if this is what your looking for.
Any harness that meets SFI 16.1 is technically safe... And most any harness will meet this. Like said tho they arnt DOT approved therefore not reccomended for the street.
Ive got an RCI because it works and it was cheap.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Well it's not that it's illegal to use; it's that if you have the harnesses on, and do NOT have your regular seatbelt on, you very well CAN get a ticket for driving w/o a seatbelt. So to be legal, you gotta use both (or just the stock seatbelt).
~Ramy
~Ramy
#12
Originally Posted by ArcWelder
Not sure why you would skimp out on the harnesses. It's not a waste of money to buy a brand name, they're a brand name because they're tested thoroughly, accepted in the business and most of all work. Think of it as insurance. I would go with Simpson or G-Force.
#14
Lives on the Forum
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Lorenzo, California
Posts: 14,716
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Originally Posted by Roen
You can always go with Schroth harnesses, they have NHTSA and DOT approval and have FMVSS certification.
#16
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 1,807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Well it's not that it's illegal to use; it's that if you have the harnesses on, and do NOT have your regular seatbelt on, you very well CAN get a ticket for driving w/o a seatbelt. So to be legal, you gotta use both (or just the stock seatbelt).
~Ramy
~Ramy
I have Impact 5 latch link harnesses -$99 a set. The shoulders are separate. I don't know if there is an advantage or not to getting a Y type shoulder set.
Cam Locks as mentioned above make it very easy to get in and out of the harnesses, but ususally they are twice as expensive.
Also make sure when you mount them that you get a good backing plate under the car for the bolt, and I suggest getting eye bolts for the anti sub and lap belts.
#17
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 1,807
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Rxmfn7
I definate dont want to cheap out, but what I mean by that is.. what is the difference between a $425+ Takata harness, and a regular simpson harness that costs $100.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The DOT requirement is the belts have -give-. Look at your stock belts - you'll see a loop weakly sewn together. It's designed to break loose to reduce the forces the body experiences against the belt. This would be a "BAD THING" if you have a "roll cage" in the car, as you would contact the cage.
Harness' are designed to hold you in place with virtually zero movement, because in most street car race conversions there is no room to move without the danger of hitting a cage tube. Hence, harness' are usually wider than "seat belts", to spread the force over a greater area of the body, as mentioned above.
If you have a cage, it's a good idea to wear the harness when moving. The law didn't consider the effect of the cage. They just were concerned with the speed crowd installing harness' for looks on street driven only vehicles. To "get around" the law, we must also wear the stock belt with the harness. A little silly, as the stock belt will do nothing. The harness would pervent any movement so the "loose" belt would just sit there. The law needs to be re-written.
Be aware, even with a good harness scinched down, you will still move a little in a violent crash - so make sure the cage tubes are far enough away so you can't hit them. I'm not sure how to figure this distance out but there must be some way the racing crowd has figured out.
Harness' are designed to hold you in place with virtually zero movement, because in most street car race conversions there is no room to move without the danger of hitting a cage tube. Hence, harness' are usually wider than "seat belts", to spread the force over a greater area of the body, as mentioned above.
If you have a cage, it's a good idea to wear the harness when moving. The law didn't consider the effect of the cage. They just were concerned with the speed crowd installing harness' for looks on street driven only vehicles. To "get around" the law, we must also wear the stock belt with the harness. A little silly, as the stock belt will do nothing. The harness would pervent any movement so the "loose" belt would just sit there. The law needs to be re-written.
Be aware, even with a good harness scinched down, you will still move a little in a violent crash - so make sure the cage tubes are far enough away so you can't hit them. I'm not sure how to figure this distance out but there must be some way the racing crowd has figured out.
#20
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (14)
I have used Sabelt, Sparco and GForce. The GForce gives you the most for the money and is FIA / SFI approved. The camlock vs latch is personnel preference. Th Camlocks are much easier to put on/lake off but more expensive. Racing rules make you replace belts (webbing) after x years. SCCA gives you a longer life on FIA belts and GForce seems to be the only people that don't charge an extra arm and leg for that certification. Also, rewebbing costs of Sparco is high, just buy a replacement set of GForce, Sabelt had no rewebbing service in us and Italy was kinda far away.
Important note: install them correctly or don't bother. Earnhart died from a bad installation, also the sholder straps must not pull down in back at to steep an angle, they will crush your back in an accident. Read the rules and read the directions. SCCA does not allow a y harness in any track events, only Solo II autoX where the purpose of a 5pt belt is only to hold you in better.
Cost no object go, with Williams. the leading belt supplier in Formula 1 or Sparco. For practical cost and safety I like the GForce products and mix GForce and Sparco on safety clothing. Sparco does seem to be softer (underwear and socks) and more ergonomic (shoes and gloves) but at a steep price. So I split the difference: Sparco t shirt, socks gloves and shoes, GForce suit, longjohns
Important note: install them correctly or don't bother. Earnhart died from a bad installation, also the sholder straps must not pull down in back at to steep an angle, they will crush your back in an accident. Read the rules and read the directions. SCCA does not allow a y harness in any track events, only Solo II autoX where the purpose of a 5pt belt is only to hold you in better.
Cost no object go, with Williams. the leading belt supplier in Formula 1 or Sparco. For practical cost and safety I like the GForce products and mix GForce and Sparco on safety clothing. Sparco does seem to be softer (underwear and socks) and more ergonomic (shoes and gloves) but at a steep price. So I split the difference: Sparco t shirt, socks gloves and shoes, GForce suit, longjohns
#21
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (14)
Further on cages, cover the tubes with approved padding, not Home Depot pipe wrap. If you have a full cage ALWAYS where a harness and a helmet, your skull is softer than a metal tube. A roll bar should be ok with just a seat belt.
If it looks like your head could move in any direction and hit a tube, cover it. Even if you say my belt would need to strech 2 ft for me to hit it. I use FIA approved hard padding in helmet areas in front, behind and to side of head and SFI approved softer padding in way of legs and arms.
If it looks like your head could move in any direction and hit a tube, cover it. Even if you say my belt would need to strech 2 ft for me to hit it. I use FIA approved hard padding in helmet areas in front, behind and to side of head and SFI approved softer padding in way of legs and arms.
#22
Originally Posted by Julian
Further on cages, cover the tubes with approved padding, not Home Depot pipe wrap. If you have a full cage ALWAYS where a harness and a helmet, your skull is softer than a metal tube. A roll bar should be ok with just a seat belt.
If it looks like your head could move in any direction and hit a tube, cover it. Even if you say my belt would need to strech 2 ft for me to hit it. I use FIA approved hard padding in helmet areas in front, behind and to side of head and SFI approved softer padding in way of legs and arms.
If it looks like your head could move in any direction and hit a tube, cover it. Even if you say my belt would need to strech 2 ft for me to hit it. I use FIA approved hard padding in helmet areas in front, behind and to side of head and SFI approved softer padding in way of legs and arms.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
turbo-minivan
General Rotary Tech Support
69
02-04-16 12:29 AM