question on 99 spec turbo
question on 99 spec turbo
Normal or Not??? for 99 spec. turbos....
it has lesser than 1000 miles on it... came off from a heavely ported engine...
It spins, but doesn't spin freely. Seems like something inside is tighten... And when you spin it, it scrapes a little bit.
Tell me what you guys think...
it has lesser than 1000 miles on it... came off from a heavely ported engine...
It spins, but doesn't spin freely. Seems like something inside is tighten... And when you spin it, it scrapes a little bit.
Tell me what you guys think...
just open up the turbo and the blades are in excellent coditions.
I'm just hoping the scraping are normal.
Because when you spin it slowly it will not scrape. But when you spin it wobbly it'll start scraping the edge of it.
I'm just hoping the scraping are normal.
Because when you spin it slowly it will not scrape. But when you spin it wobbly it'll start scraping the edge of it.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 587
Likes: 2
From: Sydney, Australia
I assume you are talking about the 280ps turbo's as the series-8 (99-02) version had two types of twin-turbo.
The Type-RB, Type-RBs, TypeRBa got the same turbo's that the series-6 got back in 1992.
The type-R, Type-RS, Type-RZ, Type-SpiritR all got the 280ps versions
If you have the "abbradiable lining" that appears to reduce the internal diameter of the intake side then you have the correct 280ps versions. if not, then you have the same types since 92.
It should be normal for the blades to appear to touch the abbradable lining as the gap is microns thick & your finger pressure will be enough to make them touch slightly. The ultra small gap is what makes these types more effecient than the series-6 types. The bushing play sitting in the shaft is similar to the blade gap hence what you have found.
I suspect these turbos will be fine. Especially since they have less than 1600km (1000 old fashioned miles) on them.
REgards
The Type-RB, Type-RBs, TypeRBa got the same turbo's that the series-6 got back in 1992.
The type-R, Type-RS, Type-RZ, Type-SpiritR all got the 280ps versions
If you have the "abbradiable lining" that appears to reduce the internal diameter of the intake side then you have the correct 280ps versions. if not, then you have the same types since 92.
It should be normal for the blades to appear to touch the abbradable lining as the gap is microns thick & your finger pressure will be enough to make them touch slightly. The ultra small gap is what makes these types more effecient than the series-6 types. The bushing play sitting in the shaft is similar to the blade gap hence what you have found.
I suspect these turbos will be fine. Especially since they have less than 1600km (1000 old fashioned miles) on them.
REgards
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,736
Likes: 10
From: Dallas, Texas
Yup those look like my 99's....
if you get a close up of the intake and the black lining, that is the abraidable seal.
Also, if you do a search...using a keyword like 99* (with the star) you can find pics that I posted.
if you get a close up of the intake and the black lining, that is the abraidable seal.
Also, if you do a search...using a keyword like 99* (with the star) you can find pics that I posted.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Dove le cose sono fatte il vecchio moda il senso
It's not normal for the Compressor Wheel to touch the Compressor Housing as it spools/rotates. If they are contacting now by just spinning the wheel with your finger, then it is obvious that it will scrape when they spool at normal functioning rpm (100K plus). The scraping will cause a loud whine and will probably damage the wheel and the housing with continued use.
Sounds to me like the bearings and/or thrust bearing mating ring may be worn causing too much shaft play??.
Sounds to me like the bearings and/or thrust bearing mating ring may be worn causing too much shaft play??.
Originally posted by areXseven
It's not normal for the Compressor Wheel to touch the Compressor Housing as it spools/rotates. If they are contacting now by just spinning the wheel with your finger, then it is obvious that it will scrape when they spool at normal functioning rpm (100K plus). The scraping will cause a loud whine and will probably damage the wheel and the housing with continued use.
Sounds to me like the bearings and/or thrust bearing mating ring may be worn causing too much shaft play??.
It's not normal for the Compressor Wheel to touch the Compressor Housing as it spools/rotates. If they are contacting now by just spinning the wheel with your finger, then it is obvious that it will scrape when they spool at normal functioning rpm (100K plus). The scraping will cause a loud whine and will probably damage the wheel and the housing with continued use.
Sounds to me like the bearings and/or thrust bearing mating ring may be worn causing too much shaft play??.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,096
Likes: 1
From: Dove le cose sono fatte il vecchio moda il senso
Originally posted by fd3s_rx7
Yeah, but see, the gap around the blade is so tight though. Have any idea??
Yeah, but see, the gap around the blade is so tight though. Have any idea??
But if the wheel is touching the inner housing when spun, it's got too much play.
OR,... are you applying force to the wheel towards the inner housing in order for it to produce contact??
yeah, it's too tight so when it is being spun using fingle pressure, it'll just scrape a little bit. But if just turning it with out trying to spin it, then no scrape. Sorry but I'm still really confuse.
Originally posted by areXseven
Tight is gooood!
But if the wheel is touching the inner housing when spun, it's got too much play.
OR,... are you applying force to the wheel towards the inner housing in order for it to produce contact??
Tight is gooood!
But if the wheel is touching the inner housing when spun, it's got too much play.
OR,... are you applying force to the wheel towards the inner housing in order for it to produce contact??
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