Put on my downpipe or hold off??? 1995 CW RX-7 w/ 11K
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From: CT
Put on my downpipe or hold off??? 1995 CW RX-7 w/ 11K
Whats up guys? I need some help deciding. After a LONG wait for my car to get here I finally got it! 1995 Chaste White RX-7 with 11,744 original miles on her now! She is all stock minus the Racing Beat exhaust and a shorty intake. The owner also gave a a 3 inch downpipe to put on when I get a chance but am hesitant because I am short on cash and can't buy a computer immediately. So I am asking...good idea to put it on or bad idea? I have posted a few pics in the NE forum but will put a few in on this thread so you guys can eat your hearts out too ;-P
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From: Indiana
Lot of info on this on the forum.
Just adding a downpipe and not controlling the boost mat result in elevated boost levels. The stock ECU fuel map runs out quick - I think at 12 psi, so there is the risk of running at the wrong fueling - read: Kaboom
Just adding a downpipe and not controlling the boost mat result in elevated boost levels. The stock ECU fuel map runs out quick - I think at 12 psi, so there is the risk of running at the wrong fueling - read: Kaboom
Either wait or take off the intake and replace with a stock one, and install the downpipe. I would change the intake as well. All thar RE intake does is suck heated air right from the radiator and make a ton of noise. On another note Sweet car.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: All over the place
You have that car AND your short on cash? lol sounds like me.. $20k+ for the car but not enough money to do things 100% right. I would put the stock airbox in and run that downpipe. I'm sure you've read the negative aspects of running the stock cat. Treat her good!
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From: San Lorenzo, California
If you don't have much cash, install the downpipe and a manual boost controller. You'll be just fine.
If you want to keep the old RE-A intake, at least fab up a heat shield for it.
Congratulations on a great find!
If you want to keep the old RE-A intake, at least fab up a heat shield for it.
Congratulations on a great find!
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From: CT
Well I wouldn't say short on cash...I just paid 24K all said and done to get this car and ship it...then tomorrow another 1500 to register it. Damn taxes. I was just trying to get opinions about drivability till I can get the cash to do things right...so no flaming me for having the car and no money...LOL I think all of you would too after a purchase like that 
. As for the front end, the stock bumper has been marked by the lip so it has to stay for now. I was thinking OEM 99 spec front or the Mazdaspeed GTC with the smoked cover for the signals...HOT!!! BUT...I can't seem to find a real mazdaspeed GTC front end. Money is no object if it fits perfect. Anyone have a used PFC+COMM???
. As for the front end, the stock bumper has been marked by the lip so it has to stay for now. I was thinking OEM 99 spec front or the Mazdaspeed GTC with the smoked cover for the signals...HOT!!! BUT...I can't seem to find a real mazdaspeed GTC front end. Money is no object if it fits perfect. Anyone have a used PFC+COMM???
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From: Detroit, MI
The RB lip looks great, don't listen to what the others have told you!
As far as having just the DP and an intake, you should be more than fine. The main cat and the stock cat-back should provide enough restriction. In addition, the stock ECU runs a lot richer than most of us think it does.
http://www.newwave.net/~flanham/wlan.../3modrule.html
The RE intake that you have is really inefficient. Like others said, it sucks in a lot of hot air. You might benefit a lot more from getting a RacingBeat intake (utilizes the stock box) or modding it with a duct on the bottom of the stock box. Both of these are really efficient inthe sense that they draw cool air in.
Rynberg mentioned that you should get a boost controller, and this is a great idea. One thing that I do recall about later models is that they had the pills built into the turbo nipple itself. THis could be a problem if you just throw a boost controller on. When removing the wg hose, be sure to check for pills inside.
Your car looks fantastic, imo. Have fun with her!
As far as having just the DP and an intake, you should be more than fine. The main cat and the stock cat-back should provide enough restriction. In addition, the stock ECU runs a lot richer than most of us think it does.
http://www.newwave.net/~flanham/wlan.../3modrule.html
The RE intake that you have is really inefficient. Like others said, it sucks in a lot of hot air. You might benefit a lot more from getting a RacingBeat intake (utilizes the stock box) or modding it with a duct on the bottom of the stock box. Both of these are really efficient inthe sense that they draw cool air in.
Rynberg mentioned that you should get a boost controller, and this is a great idea. One thing that I do recall about later models is that they had the pills built into the turbo nipple itself. THis could be a problem if you just throw a boost controller on. When removing the wg hose, be sure to check for pills inside.
Your car looks fantastic, imo. Have fun with her!
Don't put on the downpipe without a boost controller. You will likely be boosting at 12 psi or more with the downpipe, and what you have now. That will be too much to be safe with a stock ECU.
reliable performance
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: MA, USA
Do yourself a favor with that nice car. Unless it was changed very recently, and I mean that you can be absolutely certain that it was done in the last few months, change the coolant IMMEDIATELY.
11,000 miles over 11 years means that car was sitting much of the time.
People on here talk endlessly about the primo oil they use and how they change it every other Tuesday. Yet there are few oil related engine failures and lots of blown coolant seals.
One recent poster bought a nice 42,000 mile car and had one of his coolant seals go out a thousand miles later.
I'm developing a pet theory. People aren't paying enough attention to their coolant changes. Even if you're religious about it, you can't be sure what a previous owner has done. (Which means, I fear, in some cases it could already be too late.)
From what I understand about anti-freeze it doesn't just wear out. What degrades over time is the corrosion protection in it. The coolant also needs to circulate. Just sitting there can aid corrosion. My theory is that this lack of corrosion prevention is affecting the coolant seals and contributing to the high failure rate we're seeing.
If it were my car, the first thing I'd do is get some Mazda long-life 5 year anti-freeze and mix with distilled water for a fresh coolant change.
11,000 miles over 11 years means that car was sitting much of the time.
People on here talk endlessly about the primo oil they use and how they change it every other Tuesday. Yet there are few oil related engine failures and lots of blown coolant seals.
One recent poster bought a nice 42,000 mile car and had one of his coolant seals go out a thousand miles later.
I'm developing a pet theory. People aren't paying enough attention to their coolant changes. Even if you're religious about it, you can't be sure what a previous owner has done. (Which means, I fear, in some cases it could already be too late.)
From what I understand about anti-freeze it doesn't just wear out. What degrades over time is the corrosion protection in it. The coolant also needs to circulate. Just sitting there can aid corrosion. My theory is that this lack of corrosion prevention is affecting the coolant seals and contributing to the high failure rate we're seeing.
If it were my car, the first thing I'd do is get some Mazda long-life 5 year anti-freeze and mix with distilled water for a fresh coolant change.
nice car! id go 99' spec if i were u. 
What's your point ?
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Gainesville, Fla.
Originally Posted by fu11thr0t1e_RX7
Whats up guys? I need some help deciding. After a LONG wait for my car to get here I finally got it! 1995 Chaste White RX-7 with 11,744 original miles on her now! She is all stock minus the Racing Beat exhaust and a shorty intake. The owner also gave a a 3 inch downpipe to put on when I get a chance but am hesitant because I am short on cash and can't buy a computer immediately. So I am asking...good idea to put it on or bad idea? I have posted a few pics in the NE forum but will put a few in on this thread so you guys can eat your hearts out too ;-P
If all you have is the intake and a racing beat cat back (meaning you have the precat and main cat,) go ahead and put the downpipe on. You can run that without an ecu as long as you limit the boost to 10 psi. You can accomplish that by getting larger pills for the wastegate control and prespool or installing manual boost controler. Going to larger pills will reduce your boost level, smaller will increase it.
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Originally Posted by JConn2299
Do yourself a favor with that nice car. Unless it was changed very recently, and I mean that you can be absolutely certain that it was done in the last few months, change the coolant IMMEDIATELY.
11,000 miles over 11 years means that car was sitting much of the time.
People on here talk endlessly about the primo oil they use and how they change it every other Tuesday. Yet there are few oil related engine failures and lots of blown coolant seals.
One recent poster bought a nice 42,000 mile car and had one of his coolant seals go out a thousand miles later.
I'm developing a pet theory. People aren't paying enough attention to their coolant changes. Even if you're religious about it, you can't be sure what a previous owner has done. (Which means, I fear, in some cases it could already be too late.)
From what I understand about anti-freeze it doesn't just wear out. What degrades over time is the corrosion protection in it. The coolant also needs to circulate. Just sitting there can aid corrosion. My theory is that this lack of corrosion prevention is affecting the coolant seals and contributing to the high failure rate we're seeing.
If it were my car, the first thing I'd do is get some Mazda long-life 5 year anti-freeze and mix with distilled water for a fresh coolant change.
11,000 miles over 11 years means that car was sitting much of the time.
People on here talk endlessly about the primo oil they use and how they change it every other Tuesday. Yet there are few oil related engine failures and lots of blown coolant seals.
One recent poster bought a nice 42,000 mile car and had one of his coolant seals go out a thousand miles later.
I'm developing a pet theory. People aren't paying enough attention to their coolant changes. Even if you're religious about it, you can't be sure what a previous owner has done. (Which means, I fear, in some cases it could already be too late.)
From what I understand about anti-freeze it doesn't just wear out. What degrades over time is the corrosion protection in it. The coolant also needs to circulate. Just sitting there can aid corrosion. My theory is that this lack of corrosion prevention is affecting the coolant seals and contributing to the high failure rate we're seeing.
If it were my car, the first thing I'd do is get some Mazda long-life 5 year anti-freeze and mix with distilled water for a fresh coolant change.
What's your point ?
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 3,573
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From: Gainesville, Fla.
Originally Posted by RaPtOr-T
Since when was a boost controller a requirment for a downpipe....
Doesn't have anything to do with the down pipe exclusively.....but with his other mods it seems reasonable to expect his boost to exceed the 10 psi level. Perhaps you missed his other mods. ?
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