Push Button Start
08-14-01, 02:01 PM
#1
Lawn Ornament
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Push Button Start
Does anyone have the write up on the push button start that fits in the cigarette lighter hole??? Part Numbers or anything?
Thanks
Thanks
08-14-01, 02:47 PM
#4
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I save it on my hard drive... hehe
From Mr_jonboy...
S2000 Push button starter install
Parts: OEM S2000 button, auto relay w/4 blades (bought mine at Radio Shack, 30 amp minimum, around $5), spool of 20 awg and 12 awg wire, many wire butt connectors (various sizes, some with and some without insulation), various wire taps and blade connectors, very small shrink wrap, mounting media (used super glue and 3M tape), Dremel tool to slightly enlarge cig lighter hole (necessity), wire tester (very helpful)
Install time: takes appox. 4 hours for complete job
Install cost: Total - approx. $45
Assuming you have all of the parts, these are the steps you should take to do the install. And it helps to have another person give you a hand.
FYI Schematic at the bottom
By the way, I am not responsible for you vehicle or your installation procedures. These are the steps that I took and if done correctly should give you the same results.
Disconnect negative battery terminal
Dismantling dash - First thing to do is take off all dash parts surrounding the steering wheel (including gauge cluster and of course the housing surrounding the steering column). The gauges will have to be unhooked as well as the cig lighter and the pop up headlight switch. Check the better RX-7 How To sites if you would like help dismantling this part of the car (that is what I did).
Prepping the button- You will need to open the switch to verify exactly which leads go where and compare them the wiring diagram that we have provided, double check the configuration. We cut off the plastic (used for the factory S2000 harness) surrounding the 5 leads with the Dremel tool. We cut off the two leads that are not used inside the button in order to allow more room to connect wires to the remaining 3 leads (which you will notice is not that much room, we actually bent them slightly apart too). Of the remaining three leads, the middle one should be the common power lead for the light and the button. The lead on one side will be the ground for the light where as the other lead will be the lead for the button going to the relay (see diagram). At this point you will want to attach your 20awg wires to all three leads with bare/un-insulated butt connectors. We used three different colors of wires (ex. red for power, black for ground, green for the relay), this made it easier later on to distinguish the switch leads. Leave plenty of wire attached to the leads you will shorten them later on. Take the shrink-wrap tubing and place it around the connections so that the leads never touch and short out. We then wrapped the wires in 5” of wire loom to keep them all together and easier to work with. You can then set the button aside for later mounting.
Prepping the mounting location – You must first remove the cig. Lighter and all associated pieces, save and set them aside for now. The remaining hole is too small to accommodate the button. So, we took the Dremel tool with a grinding attachment and ground down the inner edges of the hole until it fit perfect (btw don’t breath the burning ABS plastic fumes, they are toxic). Take off a little at a time and keep trying to see if it fits. Remember it is better to go slow instead of taking a bunch of material off and making the hole too big, also try to keep it round. Stop when you are able to slide the button through the hole and notice that it fits flush with the seat, just snug (it does not need to be tight).
Mounting the button – Take the button and place it in the hole. We made sure the words are facing upwards correctly and applied a little bit of super glue on the back of the chrome ring of the button. This helped it from not turning inside the hole. Next we wrapped the button housing with one piece of 3M double-sided tape and placed the original plastic cig. lighter heat shield around the button, securing it with the two screws (the plastic housing may only touch the button housing in a few spots). We also wrapped tape around the back of the button and the screwed in mount from the cig lighter. This helped to hold the back of the button. You now have the button mounted in its new home. You can now turn the gauge cluster over to see what it is going to look like (sweet isn’t it).
Wiring the key switch harness - Since you have all the dash parts off, you should be able to see the harness that is running into the key switch assembly. The harness runs under the steering column and to the left side of the column and then down the column from there (just follow it from the key hole and you will find it). Detach the harness at the back of the key switch. You will need to cut one wire from the harness and tap into another. Cut the 12 awg starting wire on the key switch harness. It will be a black wire with a blue stripe (see wiring diagram). Once the cut has been made, tape off the end that is going into the key switch. Next, take a 36” long piece of your 12 awg wire and connect it to the other end of the black and blue wire you just severed, use a shielded butt connector. Next tap into, (DO NOT CUT), the black with green stripe wire with another 36” long piece of 12 awg wire & wire-tap. Re-connect the factory harness into the key switch.
Wiring the relay –Bring in the gauge cluster with the newly mounted switch. Select a home for the relay, we choose to 3M tape it to the back side of the upper gauge cluster supports (but don’t stick it in place yet, just know where you are going to put it so you can trim all the wires accordingly). Run the wire form the start button switch to the relay using female blade connectors, taking care to route them under supports and such. You don’t want to crimp or pinch any of these wires when re-assembling the dash. Use the wiring schematic for details. Now run the middle wire from the button to something that is powered up by the “ON” position of the key switch (WARNING do not use the “ACC” position, the starter will work but the engine will not start). We tapped into the cruise control power lead(which you have to test to get the right wire on the cruise harness, I believe it was the third from the left, but double check it). The last wire on the button goes to a common ground. The other blade on the relay also goes to a common ground. .BTW, we tapped both grounds (button & relay) into the Cruise Control ground. The last two 12 awg wires will need to go up to the relay. Connect these using female blade connectors also.
Test – Place the ground cable back on the battery and do not tighten, just make sure it has a good connection. Place the key in the ignition and turn to the “ON” position. Push the start button!!! It should start right up. Turn the engine off and finish up.
If it does not start recheck all connections including the battery.
Reassemble – Put the dash back together.
click for schematic...
From Mr_jonboy...
S2000 Push button starter install
Parts: OEM S2000 button, auto relay w/4 blades (bought mine at Radio Shack, 30 amp minimum, around $5), spool of 20 awg and 12 awg wire, many wire butt connectors (various sizes, some with and some without insulation), various wire taps and blade connectors, very small shrink wrap, mounting media (used super glue and 3M tape), Dremel tool to slightly enlarge cig lighter hole (necessity), wire tester (very helpful)
Install time: takes appox. 4 hours for complete job
Install cost: Total - approx. $45
Assuming you have all of the parts, these are the steps you should take to do the install. And it helps to have another person give you a hand.
FYI Schematic at the bottom
By the way, I am not responsible for you vehicle or your installation procedures. These are the steps that I took and if done correctly should give you the same results.
Disconnect negative battery terminal
Dismantling dash - First thing to do is take off all dash parts surrounding the steering wheel (including gauge cluster and of course the housing surrounding the steering column). The gauges will have to be unhooked as well as the cig lighter and the pop up headlight switch. Check the better RX-7 How To sites if you would like help dismantling this part of the car (that is what I did).
Prepping the button- You will need to open the switch to verify exactly which leads go where and compare them the wiring diagram that we have provided, double check the configuration. We cut off the plastic (used for the factory S2000 harness) surrounding the 5 leads with the Dremel tool. We cut off the two leads that are not used inside the button in order to allow more room to connect wires to the remaining 3 leads (which you will notice is not that much room, we actually bent them slightly apart too). Of the remaining three leads, the middle one should be the common power lead for the light and the button. The lead on one side will be the ground for the light where as the other lead will be the lead for the button going to the relay (see diagram). At this point you will want to attach your 20awg wires to all three leads with bare/un-insulated butt connectors. We used three different colors of wires (ex. red for power, black for ground, green for the relay), this made it easier later on to distinguish the switch leads. Leave plenty of wire attached to the leads you will shorten them later on. Take the shrink-wrap tubing and place it around the connections so that the leads never touch and short out. We then wrapped the wires in 5” of wire loom to keep them all together and easier to work with. You can then set the button aside for later mounting.
Prepping the mounting location – You must first remove the cig. Lighter and all associated pieces, save and set them aside for now. The remaining hole is too small to accommodate the button. So, we took the Dremel tool with a grinding attachment and ground down the inner edges of the hole until it fit perfect (btw don’t breath the burning ABS plastic fumes, they are toxic). Take off a little at a time and keep trying to see if it fits. Remember it is better to go slow instead of taking a bunch of material off and making the hole too big, also try to keep it round. Stop when you are able to slide the button through the hole and notice that it fits flush with the seat, just snug (it does not need to be tight).
Mounting the button – Take the button and place it in the hole. We made sure the words are facing upwards correctly and applied a little bit of super glue on the back of the chrome ring of the button. This helped it from not turning inside the hole. Next we wrapped the button housing with one piece of 3M double-sided tape and placed the original plastic cig. lighter heat shield around the button, securing it with the two screws (the plastic housing may only touch the button housing in a few spots). We also wrapped tape around the back of the button and the screwed in mount from the cig lighter. This helped to hold the back of the button. You now have the button mounted in its new home. You can now turn the gauge cluster over to see what it is going to look like (sweet isn’t it).
Wiring the key switch harness - Since you have all the dash parts off, you should be able to see the harness that is running into the key switch assembly. The harness runs under the steering column and to the left side of the column and then down the column from there (just follow it from the key hole and you will find it). Detach the harness at the back of the key switch. You will need to cut one wire from the harness and tap into another. Cut the 12 awg starting wire on the key switch harness. It will be a black wire with a blue stripe (see wiring diagram). Once the cut has been made, tape off the end that is going into the key switch. Next, take a 36” long piece of your 12 awg wire and connect it to the other end of the black and blue wire you just severed, use a shielded butt connector. Next tap into, (DO NOT CUT), the black with green stripe wire with another 36” long piece of 12 awg wire & wire-tap. Re-connect the factory harness into the key switch.
Wiring the relay –Bring in the gauge cluster with the newly mounted switch. Select a home for the relay, we choose to 3M tape it to the back side of the upper gauge cluster supports (but don’t stick it in place yet, just know where you are going to put it so you can trim all the wires accordingly). Run the wire form the start button switch to the relay using female blade connectors, taking care to route them under supports and such. You don’t want to crimp or pinch any of these wires when re-assembling the dash. Use the wiring schematic for details. Now run the middle wire from the button to something that is powered up by the “ON” position of the key switch (WARNING do not use the “ACC” position, the starter will work but the engine will not start). We tapped into the cruise control power lead(which you have to test to get the right wire on the cruise harness, I believe it was the third from the left, but double check it). The last wire on the button goes to a common ground. The other blade on the relay also goes to a common ground. .BTW, we tapped both grounds (button & relay) into the Cruise Control ground. The last two 12 awg wires will need to go up to the relay. Connect these using female blade connectors also.
Test – Place the ground cable back on the battery and do not tighten, just make sure it has a good connection. Place the key in the ignition and turn to the “ON” position. Push the start button!!! It should start right up. Turn the engine off and finish up.
If it does not start recheck all connections including the battery.
Reassemble – Put the dash back together.
click for schematic...
Last edited by JaySpec7; 08-14-01 at 02:54 PM.
08-14-01, 03:15 PM
#7
thats not paint....
I bought mine for $37 from Honda.. I believe the link is http://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000.html
Edit:Changed link
Edit:Changed link
Trending Topics
08-14-01, 03:50 PM
#9
The Love Below!!!
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the link works.....
DON"T GET THE IGNITED BUTTON>>>doesn't look as good
you need a relay and a PC 3.5 drive power harness....don't ask why..JUST LISTEN TO MING THE MERCILESS...okie
DON"T GET THE IGNITED BUTTON>>>doesn't look as good
you need a relay and a PC 3.5 drive power harness....don't ask why..JUST LISTEN TO MING THE MERCILESS...okie
08-14-01, 05:18 PM
#11
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You will need wire for the button to make it work...but the honda has a 5 wiring pin at the back....but, the PC harness only has 4 pin..can you say PERFECT? and it does work out perfect....
PLUG and PLAY...
isn't it prettier than IGNITED button?
PLUG and PLAY...
isn't it prettier than IGNITED button?
08-15-01, 09:38 AM
#13
under construction...
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... i would think that the key would be useful for security purposes. It would be quite easy to steal a car if all you had to do was push a button, especially considering the lack of security on stock FDs.
08-15-01, 12:57 PM
#14
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally posted by Sexy7
Looks cool and all...But why bother if you still have to put in the key to make it work?
I'm not knockin' it. I'm just sayin'.
Laters,
Jason
Looks cool and all...But why bother if you still have to put in the key to make it work?
I'm not knockin' it. I'm just sayin'.
Laters,
Jason
08-16-01, 03:25 AM
#15
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just vaguely off-topic, i have the mazdaspeed CF cluster cover and am going to be putting it in soon... it is a direct replacement for the OEM cluster, but the cigarette adapter is on the wrong (left) side; i'd like to do the push-button ignition mod, but don't know if there is clearance on that side nehid the dash for the cylinder (hope that makes sense, really late!)... does anyone know off-hand whether it will fit? i'd like to get all the parts together to do the swap and mod all at once, but don't want to buy parts blindly if there is a good chance it will be a no-go, any advice or tips appreciated!
08-16-01, 07:00 AM
#16
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Originally posted by daiSho
just vaguely off-topic, i have the mazdaspeed CF cluster cover and am going to be putting it in soon... it is a direct replacement for the OEM cluster, but the cigarette adapter is on the wrong (left) side; i'd like to do the push-button ignition mod, but don't know if there is clearance on that side nehid the dash for the cylinder (hope that makes sense, really late!)... does anyone know off-hand whether it will fit? i'd like to get all the parts together to do the swap and mod all at once, but don't want to buy parts blindly if there is a good chance it will be a no-go, any advice or tips appreciated!
just vaguely off-topic, i have the mazdaspeed CF cluster cover and am going to be putting it in soon... it is a direct replacement for the OEM cluster, but the cigarette adapter is on the wrong (left) side; i'd like to do the push-button ignition mod, but don't know if there is clearance on that side nehid the dash for the cylinder (hope that makes sense, really late!)... does anyone know off-hand whether it will fit? i'd like to get all the parts together to do the swap and mod all at once, but don't want to buy parts blindly if there is a good chance it will be a no-go, any advice or tips appreciated!
08-16-01, 09:59 AM
#17
thats not paint....
Yeah you should have room.. but... it is very tight in that interior. I just installed my starter yesterday and the night before. I think the hardest part was pulling apart then putting back together the dash. If you don't already have a Turbo Timer look into one. I installed a Turbo Timer and the starter. Glad I got both things done at once. Blitz Full Auto Turbo Timer Type-S!! RX-7 Store hooked me up. Real time speed display, 0-60, 1/4 & 1/8 mile times. I love it 
I need to get my friends digital camera so I can take some pictures.
Chris
I need to get my friends digital camera so I can take some pictures.Chris
08-16-01, 10:09 AM
#18
Senior Member
Holy ****, this topic is still floating around. I wish the original wasnt' wiped out by the forum shut down. That was a popular post. Who ever came up with the PC harness idea,,,,,pretty cool. Was anyone planning on putting this topic on a website. A couple people emailed me about it and I said it was fine, but I never got any addresses to go see. I would love to see all your pics of your start button installs.
08-16-01, 12:49 PM
#19
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Originally posted by 7-sins
Yeah you should have room.. but... it is very tight in that interior. I just installed my starter yesterday and the night before. I think the hardest part was pulling apart then putting back together the dash. If you don't already have a Turbo Timer look into one. I installed a Turbo Timer and the starter. Glad I got both things done at once. Blitz Full Auto Turbo Timer Type-S!! RX-7 Store hooked me up. Real time speed display, 0-60, 1/4 & 1/8 mile times. I love it I need to get my friends digital camera so I can take some pictures.
Chris
Yeah you should have room.. but... it is very tight in that interior. I just installed my starter yesterday and the night before. I think the hardest part was pulling apart then putting back together the dash. If you don't already have a Turbo Timer look into one. I installed a Turbo Timer and the starter. Glad I got both things done at once. Blitz Full Auto Turbo Timer Type-S!! RX-7 Store hooked me up. Real time speed display, 0-60, 1/4 & 1/8 mile times. I love it
I need to get my friends digital camera so I can take some pictures.Chris
08-16-01, 01:17 PM
#20
thats not paint....
0-60mph, 0-120mph, and 1/4 mile sprint times, variable speed warning function, peak speed record, current speed display as well as being a fully automatic turbo timer
Check out http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk for more info, it's in the "New Products" page.
The UK site is the only one with info on it... I talked to the RX-7 Store and they said they could send it to me from their blitz distributor. It was like $123 with timer, harness, and shipping.
Check out http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk for more info, it's in the "New Products" page.
The UK site is the only one with info on it... I talked to the RX-7 Store and they said they could send it to me from their blitz distributor. It was like $123 with timer, harness, and shipping.
08-16-01, 01:33 PM
#21
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Originally posted by 7-sins
0-60mph, 0-120mph, and 1/4 mile sprint times, variable speed warning function, peak speed record, current speed display as well as being a fully automatic turbo timer
Check out http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk for more info, it's in the "New Products" page.
The UK site is the only one with info on it... I talked to the RX-7 Store and they said they could send it to me from their blitz distributor. It was like $123 with timer, harness, and shipping.
0-60mph, 0-120mph, and 1/4 mile sprint times, variable speed warning function, peak speed record, current speed display as well as being a fully automatic turbo timer
Check out http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk for more info, it's in the "New Products" page.
The UK site is the only one with info on it... I talked to the RX-7 Store and they said they could send it to me from their blitz distributor. It was like $123 with timer, harness, and shipping.
Does the timer work as a boost gauge too?
Thanks
08-16-01, 05:10 PM
#22
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Originally posted by mr_jonboy
Holy ****, this topic is still floating around. I wish the original wasnt' wiped out by the forum shut down. That was a popular post. Who ever came up with the PC harness idea,,,,,pretty cool. Was anyone planning on putting this topic on a website. A couple people emailed me about it and I said it was fine, but I never got any addresses to go see. I would love to see all your pics of your start button installs.
Holy ****, this topic is still floating around. I wish the original wasnt' wiped out by the forum shut down. That was a popular post. Who ever came up with the PC harness idea,,,,,pretty cool. Was anyone planning on putting this topic on a website. A couple people emailed me about it and I said it was fine, but I never got any addresses to go see. I would love to see all your pics of your start button installs.
My idea....jsut being lazy not to open up the button....
08-16-01, 05:34 PM
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Dismantling dash - First thing to do is take off all dash parts surrounding the steering wheel (including gauge cluster and of course the housing surrounding the steering column). The gauges will have to be unhooked as well as the cig lighter and the pop up headlight switch. Check the better RX-7 How To sites if you would like help dismantling this part of the car (that is what I did).
where are these sites?
where are these sites?
08-16-01, 05:38 PM
#25
Senior Member
Well the two most popular sites are probably :
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/
and
http://www.robrobinette.com/
they also have links to others.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/
and
http://www.robrobinette.com/
they also have links to others.